Sway bar question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 776
Likes: 35
From: Irricana Alberta
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Sway bar question
Hi and have a question regarding the front sway bar. Should there be half inch or so play with these. I posted pics su u can see. I got a socket and wrench on it but tight as it gets. I have it up on my lift replacing the power steering hoses and these links with all the play just doesn't seem right. Is it
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,026
Likes: 4,174
From: US-PNW
The middle bushings look like aluminum (?). That spring certainly doesn't behave like the solid tube spacer that is normally used. I'd be buying a new bushing set and just replacing what's there.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,031
Likes: 4,385
From: Marlton NJ
Hi and have a question regarding the front sway bar. Should there be half inch or so play with these. I posted pics su u can see. I got a socket and wrench on it but tight as it gets. I have it up on my lift replacing the power steering hoses and these links with all the play just doesn't seem right. Is it
These links are pretty cool and allow the owner to fine-tuning the handling characteristics of the car.
The spring softens the effect of the sway bar, giving it less effect on that end of the car.
This looks like the front, so the car would understeer less, or oversteer more, than before.
Tightening or loosening the spring will also have some of the same effect.
Replacing the spring with a solid sleeve will cause the sway bar to work harder, and the car to understeer more.
Try it both ways and see which you like best.
There should be no free play. You can tighten/compress the spring some. If you completely squish the spring into coil bind you may as well have a solid sleeve on there. These little springs are much softer than the bar, so the bar does not work until these springs bottom out. The springs eliminate any clunking that you may get with that nut 1/2" loose.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,320
Likes: 8,124
From: Napa Valley California
It’s hard to tell from your picture, but the top nut may be tightened all the way to the shank and may not tighten any more.
If the car is up on the lift, then there is no weight on the suspension and you could see just what you are seeing.
Either way, you don’t want to tighten the sway bar bolts without the vehicle on the ground or with the full weight loaded on the suspension.
If the car is up on the lift, then there is no weight on the suspension and you could see just what you are seeing.
Either way, you don’t want to tighten the sway bar bolts without the vehicle on the ground or with the full weight loaded on the suspension.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 776
Likes: 35
From: Irricana Alberta
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Hey thanks for the info, it just didn't look right 2 me, that car is up on the 4 post lift so lots of weight on the sway bar, so either leave alone or replace with the solid bar link
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Team Owner
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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remove that junk and go to your local auto parts store and get some moog brand sway bar link
Race Director
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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I run energy suspension brand sway bar link's and bushings. But at any rate, that spring is wrong.
the center spacer needs to be of a length that matches up to your ride height.
With car on the ground. All it's weight on the wheels. The sway bar "Arms" should be roughly level with the ground.
And no gap.
the center spacer needs to be of a length that matches up to your ride height.
With car on the ground. All it's weight on the wheels. The sway bar "Arms" should be roughly level with the ground.
And no gap.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 776
Likes: 35
From: Irricana Alberta
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Yes the nut on the top is as far as it goes and with weight still the gap, So best to replace with newer stuff. my car was built probably early 80s so replacing stuff normal, had a p/s leak so replacing the hoses fun fun as from underneath and my big hands a pain
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 8,031
Likes: 4,385
From: Marlton NJ
It is an old school tuning tool but something is not right about it.
It will rattle that way.
Just replace it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 776
Likes: 35
From: Irricana Alberta
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
One rattle at a time on these old cars, it just seemed like something not right as the gap shouldn't be there, going to take one out and see what I have, maybe an easy fix as have a bunch of new fiero links as came with my other build
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
If I recall correctly, those adjustable links were originally marketed as a "fine tuning tool", as "leigh1322" pointed out in an earlier post, and were sold by Addco, the sway bar people. From what I see in the OP's pictures, is that the "through bolt" on the link(s), is about an inch to an inch and a half too long. Replace the bolt, so you can get a little tension on the spring, before the nut bottoms out, and you'll be OK...........
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,226
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From: NJ
Yeah, like other have said: that spring defeats the purpose of the sway bar. There needs to be a steel tube spacer in place of the spring. Best to buy the whole setup with bolts, nuts washers, grommets and spacers for both sides. And while your at it get the sway bar insulator bushings as well, they attach the bar to the frame.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,320
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From: Napa Valley California
Do some research and buy the proper sway bar kit
Installing the incorrect parts could cause serious steering and stability issues.
Never buy poly bushings on the internet.
Buy only Energy Suspension poly or Moog rubber bushings.
If you don’t you’ll be swapping them out in a year or two.
Installing the incorrect parts could cause serious steering and stability issues.
Never buy poly bushings on the internet.
Buy only Energy Suspension poly or Moog rubber bushings.
If you don’t you’ll be swapping them out in a year or two.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 776
Likes: 35
From: Irricana Alberta
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
So I pulled out the old one tonight and turns out same length as the new fiero ones just no spacer so used the spring and I belive it works will see
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
If all you need is the sleeve, just cut down one of your spare sleeves to the correct length.
I'll add this related link here, since I greatly respected what @gkull contributed to this Forum. His was a different approach, though.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...end-links.html