Looking for C3 Build advice
My name is Andy. I typically am a forum lurker but decided to register here as I am looking for some advice. I recently inherited a '69 base 350/4 speed convertible, manual everything (brakes/steering/windows/etc), Cortez silver/black interior, and am trying to decide what route to go with it. I have spent a week or so reading on the forums but am looking for advice on more recent builds and reviews. Too often lately I have run into companies that used to be great and now, not so much. I am specifically looking for 2025 ballpark build prices and experiences. I have done a few cars in the past and understand how quickly things snowball. Before I dig into this thing, I want to have an overall vision and at least general idea of cost/time. I typically do almost everything myself, but at this point in my life, I don't feel the need to. I build drivers, tend to spend more on the mechanicals than paint, and like restomods. I have never been concerned with originality and would rather build a base car into something I want. I was not actively looking for a project but have often thought of swapping an LS into something, and I like aftermarket suspension. I tend to keep the things I build and have been driving my first car for almost 30 years. I typically like old GM, am a sucker for a stick convertible, but have branched out in recent years to all forms of American Muscle. This car checks a lot of boxes (stick convertible, sentimental value, base car that may be a good restomod build). I have a passing familiarity with 60s and 70s GM but know very little about corvettes. I have no specific timeline in mind. While I have the resources for more than a budget build, I am struggling with the fact that I could easily spend on this the cost of a C7 or used C8 and would like to keep costs reasonable.
My uncle bought the car in 1971, it maybe saw 1 or 2 WI winters in that time but overall has been stored on concrete in a non-temperature-controlled garage. The odometer says 73k. When he died 10 years ago, my cousin inherited the car. He hasn't done much with it besides hit his neighbor's garage. He got frustrated with the body shop's "we'll have it done soon" and 2 years later it's not. He wanted to dump the car for next to nothing, and after I looked at it and told him it needed a frame, he just gave it to me. The body seems okay (who knows the quality of the body work). The birdcage seems intact (under the kick panels and sill plates looks almost new, no obvious rust in the windshield frame, some rust in the rear kick up area under the inspection panel), but overall surprisingly good to my untrained eye considering the condition of the frame. It is a complete driving car with decent driver quality interior, working gauges, and stock everything. The convertible top is in great shape. Glass looks good. It's missing a few emblems and the front grills, but overall it's a very complete car. It needs paint.
My goals would be at minimum a great driver that I could take to work on a regular basis, manages the freeway okay, and could handle a longer trip. As I need a frame, I would replace everything under the car. That being said, while I don't need it for autocross/etc, I am considering a full aftermarket build. I have 3 potential builds in mind.
1. Classic build. I would source a stock frame, get aftermarket control arms/springs/etc, add on power steering and power brakes. I would use the Borgeson box if available but appears to be on back order, as do a lot of the suspension parts. Small block Chevy, Tremec TKX 5 speed. Carbureted (have had too many issues with aftermarket EFI and feel more comfortable rebuilding a carb than dealing with a throttle body EFI). Regardless of what else I do, I would be interested in converting the vacuum headlights/wiper cover to electric, putting on better wheels/tires. Looking at what I need, before paint, I added parts up to about 25k, give or take. This includes around 5k for a used frame, Global West upper and lowers, performance aftermarket rear suspension, 383 crate motor, Tremec TKX with bellhousing, brakes, booster conversion, headlight/wiper cover conversion, wheels/tires, rebuilt differential, radiator core, brake and fuel lines, radiator, exhaust, etc.
2. Aftermarket frame, maybe a Street Shop or SRIII as it uses a C5/6 set up. Source a used C5 and transfer everything over. This has a lot of variables and would be labor intensive. I bought Chris Petrie's How to Build and Modify your C3 Corvette book and have been reading up on what you need to do to fit an LS in the stock frame. He did this in one of his builds in that book. Small block Chevy crate motor/TKX would still be an option.
3. Full prebuilt aftermarket frame set up. This is tempting. For around 50k, you theoretically could have a bolt on frame with all suspension, steering, brakes, lines, gas tank, GM crate LS, all the electronics, trans, etc. Everything is built already, is made to work together, and takes out all of the guess work and hopefully much of the time investment. This is not unreasonable at all based on other builds I have done, with a lot less labor by me. This is where I have questions. Can you really just call up Street Shop, order this, and have it delivered to your door ready to go in 6 months? The owner Tray was super responsive, nice and helpful on the phone, and the place seems legit. The people at SRIII seem nice as well, and are closer to me in WI, but I am not crazy about cutting the bottom of the car to fit the tubular chassis. Schwartz in IL priced me out with the cost of their frame/suspension alone, and Roadster Shop chassis looks amazing as well, but probably more than I want to spend.
So that's my intro. I'm looking for recent real-world experience with different C3 builds, specifically with experiences with Street Shop or SRIII in the last few years, and the "I wish I would or would not have done this differently" advice. Thanks.
Andy
One thing to keep in mind that many folks here love to spend other people’s money so sometimes the opinions get a bit over the top.
I am curious as to why you think you need to replace the frame. You will almost always find surface rust that can be addressed and unless the frame is a total rot-out, is likely saveable.
if not, it’s cheaper and easier to buy one that’s already been restored or resto-modded.





And you are correct, there are many ways you can go with this. Including just repairing the frame you have. Every section is available. You need to lift the body either way. Once the body is off. It's just a welding project.
LS swap. Yup. Lots of people have done this with C3's.
There are so many ways to go here. Who are we to tell you what you want.
Lots of build threads on here.
Perhaps entertain yourself by reading some.
Cheers Mate
Then drive it for a while and figure what’s important to you, and if you love it enough to spend the time and money to make the kind of changes you are talking about. If you don’t, sell it.
For “a great driver that I could take to work on a regular basis, manages the freeway okay, and could handle a longer trip.” a repaired frame and new shocks, bushings, springs, etc. with a 5 or 6 speed and a strong small block or LS swap will be just the ticket.
If you don’t love it, and like driving it while it is more or less in its original form, you’d probably be better off just buying a C5-6-7. I appreciate driving my 71 as much for its shortcomings as its strengths. Modern suspensions and brakes and big tires are easy and boring. I have a car with those things and drive it less that my C3, (unless it’s raining
).Please post pics!

Wish you were my neighbor. That's a great project. I'm jealous. I did most of what you are talking about in the first scenario. Same ideas. Not at all unhappy with the results and still have a list of things to do.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
me too.
I did a light restomod for my '69 350, essentially option 1. Borgeson. T5. Reduced weight 285# through use of lots of aluminum parts. (heads, intake, rad/shroud, diff cover, fib spring, battery, master cylinder, etc, etc). Heads have hardenend seats so no more lead substitute, retro roller cam conversion so no more high zink oil or worry about wiping cam, FiTech fuel injection so no more rebuilding carb every few years or cranking with dry bowls. Max caster "crash" front control arm shafts. chassis spreader. Bigger front swaybar. 550 font springs. Its a no excuse, turn the key, driver with 30 ft paint. Would drive it anywhere.
I do more lurking and learning on this forum than posting as there are a ton of knowledgeable people on this site ready to help.
However, your post spurred my interest as I am about 90% complete on my frame off 76 Corvette restoration. Like you, I was torn on how original to keep my car, but chose a resto-mod route in the end. The short list includes: 400 small block motor from Blue Print engines (Carburetor, for the same reason you mentioned), upgraded brakes, suspension, cooling system and A/C (my car didn’t come with it).
I am about $50K in the build with only minor items and paint left. I am an all hands-on guy and did most of the work myself, minus building the engine, trans and rearend. I could have saved money along the way, but sometimes threw money for the new parts to get further down the build.
Like you, I pondered buying a C-7 model, but I am thankful I went rebuilding my C-3 instead. Having my car on the road makes me smile every time I hit the gas pedal. For me, I completely understand my car would never anywhere remotely sell for the money I have invested in it, but I am never selling the car. Building my car, with my family’s help was priceless. I put every single nut and bolt on the car!
If you need any help, advice or a shoulder to cry on, when you see how much Corvette parts cost, shoot me an email and when can exchange phone numbers. usafbigsarge@gmail.com
Take care, Mike
I do more lurking and learning on this forum than posting as there are a ton of knowledgeable people on this site ready to help.
However, your post spurred my interest as I am about 90% complete on my frame off 76 Corvette restoration. Like you, I was torn on how original to keep my car, but chose a resto-mod route in the end. The short list includes: 400 small block motor from Blue Print engines (Carburetor, for the same reason you mentioned), upgraded brakes, suspension, cooling system and A/C (my car didn’t come with it).
I am about $50K in the build with only minor items and paint left. I am an all hands-on guy and did most of the work myself, minus building the engine, trans and rearend. I could have saved money along the way, but sometimes threw money for the new parts to get further down the build.
Like you, I pondered buying a C-7 model, but I am thankful I went rebuilding my C-3 instead. Having my car on the road makes me smile every time I hit the gas pedal. For me, I completely understand my car would never anywhere remotely sell for the money I have invested in it, but I am never selling the car. Building my car, with my family’s help was priceless. I put every single nut and bolt on the car!
If you need any help, advice or a shoulder to cry on, when you see how much Corvette parts cost, shoot me an email and when can exchange phone numbers. usafbigsarge@gmail.com
Take care, Mike
Also welcome I was also a forum lurker until recently!
Matt
I'm helping a friend with a '72 Corvette, 350 auto. It had VintageAir on it when they got it, works nicely. The previous owners also did the composite leaf spring conversion, front and rear, with Viking shocks - honestly it is too bouncy for my tastes. If you click my username, check the threads I've made - I posted some info/pics about some of the work I did on the car a few years ago.
I have it back in my shop now. I just added New Vintage USA gauges, a FAST EZ 2.0 efi & ignition system, and made some upgrades to the wiring system. Just took it for a test drive a few days ago, and it ran better than I had expected! Trying to finish up the gauge install right now. I made a thread a few days ago, the danged blue bakelite mounting pods for the speedo & tach are brittle and cracked too much to solidly mount the gauges - you'll know what I'm talking about, when you get to that part of the car! I got some Kydex, and made new flanges, and they also reinforce the pods.
Compared the Pontiacs & Olds (and others) I've worked on over the decades, the C3 is a bit of a b!tch to work on! Clearances are tight, many things are tough to get to. Not my favorite car to work on!
The car does have sentimental value, and after much thought, I decided I would like to save it. It is not the car I would have chosen to start with had I been shopping, but it is more complete than my 70 GTO was when I started. That's now an orbit orange, fuel injected, 4.5 stroked 400, 5 speed with Edelbrock heads, aftermarket suspension, brand new everything. I actually drove it to work last night and it did put a smile on my face.
I agree that it is always cheaper to buy someone else's finished car. That being said, I like to make cars how I want them and would likely just redo it anyway. I've done that with just about everything I own. I bought a 69 TA clone because I thought it was "done" and wound up redoing the whole suspension, the motor, fuel injection, 5 speed, the whole nine yards. As an aside, I actually have been having issues with an oil leak off of the oil filter assembly adapter for the factory headers and rather than sleep today, was putting that on for like the fourth or fifth time. One more case for me not wanting to mess around with old motors!
Also after more thinking, as far as buying a newer vette, I do like the older styling. I drove a friend's C8 recently and the thing is insane. I don't personally love the styling and would want a manual transmission. I have the same issue with the new GT500. Another friend has a C7 which I like, but don't absolutely love. Also, I do have some newer muscle already (01 TA, 13 Camaro SS Trans Am conversion, 14 GT500, 19 CA special mustang, 21 Challenger widebody shaker) and don't necessarily feel the need to buy a newer corvette. Plus, insurance is starting to get pricey on all these cars, and classic car insurance is like a third or less of new car insurance. Sounds stupid, but the recurring costs really add up over the years.
If I can figure it out, I'll post pics of the car and the frame. The frame looks cracked at the junction of the rear kick up area, is pretty soft just in front of that (big holes), and I can see through the outside edge of where the passenger rear trailing arm mounts. If I'm pulling the body anyway, I'm just starting fresh. I am not crazy about cutting fiberglass and don't love the look of a tubular frame, so I decided to go with Street Shop. It seems like most of the restomods I looked at on the internet use their set up. I talked with Tray (owner) today and hopefully will have the thing ordered in the next week. Rather than mess around with used motors, etc (I spend too much time in the garage already), I decided just to get a modern GM crate. It's pricey, but who really needs to retire? I have been casually talking about doing an LS swap for years, so I guess this is my opportunity. Since he is a GMPP dealer and seems to have decent pricing, I will just buy everything through him, and he assembles everything on the frame for free.
This brings new decisions. I was looking at the LS 376/480. I mentioned to Tray that I like the low end torque of a big inch Pontiac and while I like the LS3 in my Camaro, even with headers, CAI, tune, it doesn't have the grunt down low and he told me to look at the L8P, and I really, really like the torque curve on that. I've been trying to find how that modified truck motor with C8 parts does in classic corvettes. Also, he mentioned some of the LT motors have been on back order from GM since October.
I'll do a TKX 5 speed because it requires the least amount of modification to the body and fits in the stock center console.
I was reading up on the Vintage Air in the C3. Sounds like a bear, but everyone who has done it seems to say they were happy they did. I'm not a huge fan of air in old cars, but if everything else is apart, and I'm going this far, I might as well do it. It wasn't too bad to do in my GTO but I have had that thing on the road for 5 years and still haven't even put refrigerant in it yet. As in the GTO, I would do it more for the modern electric control of the heater system. It looks like 69 uses a vacuum operated door system, and the thing doesn't turn on anyway, so I would have to trouble shoot that. I dislike the accordion tubes under the dash, but it is what it is.
Again, thanks for all of the posts and recommendations above. I read through each multiple times and they helped me come to the above decision. This forum in general is great, and it's crazy how responsive the community is. Based on the forum recommendations, I just picked up a headlight/wiper door electric conversion kit from Richard454 (ordered Monday, delivered today) which looks great. I'll try to post some pics here in the near future.



















