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Will it crank using a screwdriver ? If it does, something is wrong with your push button wiring. It is basically an alternate path instead of the screwdriver.
Cable from engine block to frame is also new with cleaned surfaces and tightened. I can get the starter to crank with a screwdriver, but it doesn't sound sustained. Meaning, I can't just hold it there to perpetually crank the engine.
The push button start has 2 posts. 1 wire goes to the big terminal on the starter. The second wire goes to the s terminal on the starter. Ground to ground, 12v to 12v. Test light and voltmeter give 12 volts and a solid ground.
I'm starting to wonder if the solenoid is damaged or no good.
Yes, I have 12 volts on the big terminal on the starter solenoid. And good ground on the s terminal. No seatbelt interlock system. And I have definitely tried starting in neutral as well as playing with the shifter up and down, (neutral safety switch) the ground from frame to battery is good. New cable, frame is cleaned and sanded to bare metal.
The key switch on the column actually connects to an electrical switch near the foot pedals (on the steering column ). When you changed out the key switch did you check to see that turning the key moved the electrical switch?
Forgive me, I misspoke. It's been a long few weeks, and no one can seem to figure out the problem with this damn car. As you can see, the big terminal on the starter is getting 12v power. The s terminal does not light up for a ground. I understand the wiring looks messy, but 2 of those wires are not usually there as they are still attached for the push button start.
You have to keep repeating yourself over & over because people are not reading your responses.
Then by all means, please take a look at the photos, and tell us what's going on.
It looks like a black wire is attached to the S terminal, and another to the R terminal. And three wires to the main lug.
If the S wire and one of the main lug wires go through the add-on switch, and the OP still has a points ignition, I really can't explain what's wrong.
And without that photo, what refutes that the S terminal isn't grounded? Grounding the S terminal is 100% consistent with the symptoms.
Bridging the main lug to the solenoid output terminal cranks the starter (badly). But so should applying voltage to the S terminal, unless the solenoid doesn't work, or the S terminal is grounded, just like the OP stated!
OP: Can you measure the voltage at your bypass switch? I know you say it's 12V, but it looks like you just have a light up test probe. With the switch depressed, you should have 12V on both sides. If it drops, at least we'd know the current is going somewhere, even if it isn't actuating the solenoid.
And since half of the solenoid diagrams have S and R reversed, I'd make 100% certain you read the markings on the solenoid, and don't rely on a diagram. I can't see the markings in your photos.
Last edited by Bikespace; Aug 3, 2025 at 06:00 PM.
Reason: Changed starter diagram
I really appreciate everyone's time taking a moment to chime in. Just giving an update here. I pulled the starter, and the main lug post was a little loose. I tightened and reinstalled, but nothing. So I'm about to reinstall a 3rd New starter. I'll update when I know more. The sign is an HEI by the way. That yellow wire was tied out of the way.
I give up. Someone come take this POS to the scrap yard. New starter... Nothing... Here's a better look at wiring one the new starter. 12.3 v to the starter.
No smell, not noise, no clicks whatsoever ever. It won't even get hot. It's literally as if there is a personal ghost bending the rules of science. The ONLY way I can get the starter to work is by arking with a screwdriver. No one has been able to explain why a push button will not work. One person has suggested a broken wire behind the dash.
I think I may be close. I just took another look at my fuse box. This pigtail is just hanging and is the same ignition wire colors as what plugs into the neutral safety switch in the center console. In addition, the blade under the pink wire is for ignition is empty. Should something be going to it?
Looking at my 73 repair manual it shows that the colors for the wires on the trans neutral safety switch is purple with white stripe and purple. Auto or manual. You may have found something. I would see if you can get a schematic for your car and start tracing wires. I also looked at the fuse block and it shows a tan wire in that location that goes to the resistor for the coil and to the idle stop solenoid. Not sure how much of the wiring changes from 73 to 74. There is a guy on the Forum giving out schematics for free, just ask and he emails them to you.
Last edited by Laughing Coyote; Aug 3, 2025 at 11:49 PM.
