1970 Corvette Brake lines
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: South Riding Virginia
1970 Corvette Brake lines
Hi Everyone,
I’m contemplating replacing the brake line running from the proportioning valve to the rear distribution block. Has anyone done this without having a lift available. I currently have the car on jack stands and have already removed all the brake line clips. I’ve soaked the brake line connectors/ nuts with blaster, I want to replace the line because the end connecting to the rear brake line block looks corroded. I’ve replaced the rear crossover brake line and rear brake hoses. I am not going with stainless lines and I’m concerned with how difficult it may be to snake the new brake line laying under the car. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I’m contemplating replacing the brake line running from the proportioning valve to the rear distribution block. Has anyone done this without having a lift available. I currently have the car on jack stands and have already removed all the brake line clips. I’ve soaked the brake line connectors/ nuts with blaster, I want to replace the line because the end connecting to the rear brake line block looks corroded. I’ve replaced the rear crossover brake line and rear brake hoses. I am not going with stainless lines and I’m concerned with how difficult it may be to snake the new brake line laying under the car. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 2,329
From: Central UT
Hi, I did mine on a lift which made it easier on my back, but you can do it not problem - just take your time. If you were able to get all the clips out, you're most of the way there! As you now know, a few of them are pretty tough to get to. When you replace the long line, be prepared to take your time and take a deep breath. Here are some things I found helpful:
- Loosen the distribution block at the axle area so you can move it around a bit.
- Take the long line and move it past the axle (over it if I remember correctly) and work the line up to the prop valve. You'll probably need to bend it a bit, but that's okay. Another reason I don't like ss lines.
- Start the rear of the line in the dist block and make certain you have it started correctly with no binding. Bend the line a bit if needed to ensure you have it straight on to the dist block. Close isn't good enough. Get it on several threads but do not tighten just yet.
- Go to the prop valve and bend the line slightly so you get a straight on connection and start to thread it. Make certain you have a straight on connection. Again, close isn't good enough.
- Once you get a good start on both ends, you can button up the dist block and then tighten each end. Tighten pretty well, then back off a bit, and do a final tightening.
- Than reinstall the clips.
- Remember that if you have any leaks, 'teflon tape' does absolutely no good. These are conical fittings and should seat well unless you have any corrosion in your dist block or prop valve (I replaced both of mine). If you have any trouble, there are copper conical washers that work well, but you should be just fine.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,137
Likes: 4,248
From: US-PNW
I replaced the chassis line on my '72 without a lift with the body remaining on the chassis (some folks recommend lifting the body). You'll need a thin-headed open wrench to fit between the frame and body to remove the clip bolts. The most difficulty I had was getting the line over and through the rear frame and then connected at the rear block. The angle has to be just right or the fitting can cross-thread and, like everything C3, there's so very little room to do anything. 
