Sounds like I'm taking the intake back off... The consensus is gasket maker beads on the china walls and to throw away the rubber gaskets? Anyone got a demonstration video or images they recommended so I don't end up with it looking like an elementary school Elmer's glue project? But the rubber felpro 1628 valve cover gaskets are ok without sealant?
Carb is a Holley labeled 6210-2... Spreadbore?
Headers are 3947041 which looks like it goes with 68-70 350s, so those might be original to the replacement engine. I'll be getting a gasket for the carb too...
Thanks again for everyone's input and recommendations.

 

3947041 heads are good castings. 64cc chambers. '69-'70, may have small or large valves. Either way, they'll make good power and they're older so castings are not thin not crack-prone.

6210-2 is Holley Spreadbore; can be a good carb when jetted & tuned.

Now, now's the time to choose if you block exhaust Xover or not. Make a choice; How do you choke Your carb?? If I see good pic of entire carb, that'll probably answer that.
Tell us ? WHICH P/N felpro intake gasket(s) did you use ? It's probably printed on the "Full Set " (FS) PACKAGE of gasket set seems you have. Gasket matters !
Do Not use "Right Stuff" on intake; when fully-cured it's extremely difficult to remove an intake sealed w/ "Right Stuff".
But DO use a little thread sealer on threads of intake manifold bolts; helps prevent oil-creep from lifter valley.

Yes, dump the rubber China Wall gaskets. When you install New intake gaskets you'll use a little RTV on gaskets themselves And heavy beads on both front & rear China Walls.

Did you completely clear front intake manifold water Xover of any rust/plug ?
If you're not confident, take the bare manifold to an auto machine shop and have them either hot-tank or bake & blast it. Plan to leave it at least overnight.

*I rarely choose "Full Set" of gaskets because, invariably, I want at least one or more different gaskets and end up discarding much of full set content while buying others individually.

get that aged oil line replaced before it bites you and/or your bride, or your motor.

 

Back at it ... Trying to replace the oil gauge line. Any suggestions to unstick the part going into the china wall? I've WD40'd the hell out of it, and whoever was here first looks like they tried and just ended up stripping the 7/16. Fortunately/unfortunately I'm fresh out of blowtorch.

AND THEN ... who is responsible for these screws holding the gauge cluster under the radio?! Is there any way to get these out without completely disassembling the interior? Every video I saw just had the 5 other screws and plop... Easy-peasy.

 

Can’t help you too much on the oil pressure line. I would suggest using a stronger penetrating fluid than WD-40 though. The best I’ve used is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone in a spray bottle.

Those two screws are actually studs attached to the bottom of the bezel. They have hex nuts on the bottom that are a pain, but doable if you take off the two side access panels. I replaced them with wing nuts which makes them significantly easier to put back.

 

Vise grips and replace? I think it's just a ferule on the end of the oil pressure line. Once you get your gauge cluster apart (no help there, sorry), you can upgrade to an electric oil pressure gauge.

I can't think of anything that WD-40 is the best thing for, but penetrating oil certainly isn't it.

 

First remove the upper fitting with the nylon tubing, then get your propane refilled and heat the remaining fitting a lot ! Don't focus on the block very much because of the huge amount of heat it would take to do anything. Heat the fitting a few times and then go at it with vise-grips as Bikespace said -- maybe try to tighten it and then loosen.

The bottom bezel screws are indeed a pain to remove and replace. I really like the idea of using wingnuts.

 

Refill & ready your torch.
And, acquire a bar of Paraffin Wax (grocery home canning) or internet. GULF Wax is common brand. Also, acquire a Small pair of Vise-Grip pliers.
Always have a known-good fire extinguisher within reach.

* FYI the OE block Male fitting and OE block's hole have mating Tapered pipe thread.

Remove the black plastic oil line and swing it away from fitting; remove tapered brass crown-compression nut and both it and line should easily lift away.

Heat the remaining block fitting to very hot; then Immediately both remove heat and instantly press the wax bar onto fitting & block; so that wax is "wicked" into block threads. By very hot I do Not mean so hot that it begins to change color.

While still hot, firmly clamp pliers onto fitting's wrecked flats and rotate counter-clockwise. If fitting does not immediately come free and rotate, then squarely and sharply strike fitting Perpendicular with small metal hammer.; as if you were attempting to drive a nail into that oil hole. If fitting remains frozen, repeat heating and wax routine.

Looking ahead, replace block fitting with a bit of thread sealer (pipe dope) and always use a "line wrench" or box end wrench or socket; no open end.

 

I wouldnt use open flame on an oily motor on a brass fitting with plastic hose with oil in it...whats gonna happen when the oil flashes....just burn around the fitting or ignite the entire engine....whats gonna happen to all the oily wiring ....whats going to happen to a fiberglass firewall. Will the oil in the line burn up fast enough to make it through the firewall too.

Stupid games will get you stupid prizes. You can either buy a cheap inductive heater from Amazon
and put heat only where you need it or dont heat it at all. Its brass. Just vice grip it and rip it out. If it snaps, it will drill and easy out. It would be a far easier " shitty" job chasing brass out of small threads than dealing with an oil fire.
I wouldnt use heat here unless you clean all the oil and use shielding everywhere, and cut the oil line off and get it out of there...

 

You are correct in general. My thought was 70 vintage small blocks are factory recommended around 6-12 degrees advance which will keep the poster in the conservative range. Increasing advance can lead to preignition and other problems while retarding timing doesn’t efficiently operate the engine and could generate more heat. My basic point is that small blocks didn’t overheat from the factory when all “systems” are normalized.

 

1) Vice grips for the "win"? Good thing I don't need that anymore
2) I am not proud of how this console came out. Both the interior and I bent in ways they're not supposed to, and both found previously broken parts.
3) Thanks to whoever recommended the string to guide the line back through the firewall / dash.
4) I think I'm finally at the reassembly stage to find out if the intake gaskets were the issue! Stay tuned for questions on how to re-mount the carburetor...

 

armored line

 

Perhaps temps of those not-so cheap china induction coils readily reach or exceed motor oil autoignition point ?
Regardless, our hero has that stubborn fitting in hand.