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There is no shield, didn't have one 25 years ago when I got it. I had starter rebuilt about 15 years ago, recently had some starting trouble. Long story short, newer battery, replaced neutral safety switch, adjusted ignition switch, checked all grounds and they were good, just sometimes after a long drive, it might not start, no noise, no nothing. Installed a remote start off the starter, it never fails if I need it. Lot's of people seem to have trouble with hot starting. I did wrap the starter with some sort of material made by DEI that was supposed to help with the heat. Didn't seem to make a difference honestly. 350 automatic '72
I have heard various reports on those wrap type heat deflectors. Some say it actually locks heat in, making it worse. Some say it worked for them. I would be tempted to try and see. I’ve heard (actually read) similar results with the clamp on shields. Maybe a combination of the two? A shield with a reflective barrier around it?
kansas123
I would not wrap it with anything. If you want to anything then wrap the exhaust pipes immediately outboard of the starter.... but I hate wraps on exhaust pipes also--- wasted one set of headers to nothingness..... do a "shield" instead.
I bought a heat shield from summit and tweaked and modified so it fit well and you could reach on the starter side of the shield, opposite the exhaust that I had, and it made a BIG difference. I would do a shield not a wrap.
Battery cables, both of em, can & do corrode after some fifty years.
They'll corrode Inside insulation and do so well away from terminals; that's cancer.
New ones are remarkably inexpensive to purchase; but that long positive cable is a bear to R&R.
Cables and chassis grounds are often at the core of cranking complaints.
If you replace old heavy OE10MT starter with modern (smaller profile, half-weight) Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction, that will usually eliminate heat soak; without further need for shield or wrap.
Heat shield with an AIR GAP. My aircraft turbocharger design friends emphasize the AIR GAP requirement. Notice on your late model car air gaps are critical. The late model stuff is covered with heat shields.
If you don't have the proper heat shield in place you should get one as has been mentioned. Not a big deal.
The original shield was to keep the intense heat from the exhaust manifold and head pipe away from the solenoid.
Good luck.
Maybe wouldn't won't work but on all LS engine starters they a have a tin shield that clips onto the solenoid. I also add a layer DEI insulation to the outside of the shield. The shield has a air gap between the shield and the solenoid.
Get one from a salvage yard for almost nothing money wise.