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Menbers,
(1980 C3 350 auto.)
what could be buzzing behind the glovebox area? I turn the key on and it immediately starts buzzing, and does not shut off till the key is off.
A malfunctiong theft alarm? Seat belt reminder? Door alarm?
I can reach up and feel it, but what the heck is it for? Should be ok to unplug (if possible)? Please chime in (no pun)
Menbers,
(1980 C3 350 auto.)
what could be buzzing behind the glovebox area? I turn the key on and it immediately starts buzzing, and does not shut off till the key is off.
A malfunctiong theft alarm? Seat belt reminder? Door alarm?
I can reach up and feel it, but what the heck is it for? Should be ok to unplug (if possible)? Please chime in (no pun)
DW
If you can reach up, why not take your phone and take a picture?
There are no "buzzers" in the area of the glove box in a 1980 that I'm aware of. The only thing I can think of in that area is the interior courtesy light timer. The courtesy light timer leaves the interior lights on until the ignition switch is turned on or for 30 seconds after a door is opened, and turns then back on for 15 seconds when the ignition is turned off. The light timer is orange plastic with the word "TOP" and part number 4635989 molded into the outside of it. The timer was standard on 80-82 Corvettes and part of the optional Convenience Package in 78-79.
I've never heard of a light timer making a buzzing sound, but if it's bad I don't know maybe it will? The timers are no longer available but the there is a new circuit board available to use to repair them.
The picture below id from the Assembly Manual showing the location of the timer.
Yes! I believe it is that orange thing. Possibly the light timer, judging from my AIM diagram, but does not quite look like the drawing….it does buzz constantly. I will attempt to access the area through the glovebox removal. Thanks guys for the help !!!
(the taped wire(s) may be related…)
Yes! I believe it is that orange thing. Possibly the light timer, judging from my AIM diagram, but does not quite look like the drawing….it does buzz constantly. I will attempt to access the area through the glovebox removal. Thanks guys for the help !!!
(the taped wire(s) may be related…)
Yes, that orange box is the courtesy light timer. You're not the first person to have problems with the timer or the interior lights of 78-82's. I think a search of the Forum will turn up a few posts about working on it, and how to bypass it if necessary. Below is one post that touches on the timer, but there are others.
There's nothing aftermarket about it, that orange plastic box is the factory installed light delay timer installed in 78-82 Corvettes, and many other GM cars from the era.
The plastic liner is held in by six Phillips head screws. There are two that go in through the top of the liner, two going through the bottom, one in the left side and the last is on the right going through the glove box lamp shield. Once you remove the the six screws the liner will pull straight out through the glove box door opening.
If need be I can post the page from the Assembly Manual later showing how it goes together, but it really shouldn't be necessary. Removing it is simple, straight forward and takes five minutes. You don't even need to take the door off.
Last edited by gbvette62; Oct 24, 2025 at 08:21 AM.
Reason: Fixed a screwed up word
(1980 350auto)
I successfully removed the glovebox one piece innards, accessed the orange timer box, disconnected it, removed and replaced the small circuit board (from Zip) the old one had no burn marks but metal parts were EXTREMELY hot to touch. The courtesy lights work normal, and no constant buzzing.
What I need to check now, as this was the underlying issue, is whether or not, the faulty timer was the source of my parasitic draw on the battery. (the lights were functioning originally, but the buzzing timer was a tell that something was not right.)
To remedy the dying battery syndrome, (3 of them) I installed a simple battery kill switch. I have been using a battery tender to keep it charged. NOW, I will take the tender off, connect the kill switch, and see if the battery remains charged while sitting. It took several days for the battery to run down, so I will monitor and report back here if that timer fix did the trick.
As a side note, I have a family member who also had a battery drain issue in his C6. THAT turned out to be a faulty connection in his horn button, of all places. FYI.
I will update....
By the way, I think the 2 black connectors in the area may have been for connecting to the power door lock option, (not in this build), and I have no idea about the taped off black and orange wires.
ok
by replacing the dome light timer, it appears my parasitic battery drain is gone.... been days now, and battery is charging normal as I run the car. I now think the 'buzzing' heard is electrical interference/static coming from the dash speaker in the area! Must be a filter or ground, but for now I can take the dying battery off my list. On to the next on the punch list.....
ok by replacing the dome light timer, it appears my parasitic battery drain is gone.... been days now, and battery is charging normal as I run the car. I now think the 'buzzing' heard is electrical interference/static coming from the dash speaker in the area! Must be a filter or ground, but for now I can take the dying battery off my list. On to the next on the punch list.....
That's good news. It's always nice when you can successfully knock something off the punch list.
False assumption of buzzing origin.
I've posted in the choke heater relay thread, my issue was a MISSING fuse for the relay, making it constantly buzz somehow.
Thanks to all for bearing with me on this mystery journey....
From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
FYI...another way to see a parasitic draw right away if you have a battery disconnect switch is to use a volt/amp meter. Put the meter in the DC current measurement mode, move the lead on the meter to the current connection point and then see what it measures across the switch with the switch open. Make sure car's ignition and everything else is switched off with doors and hood closed. Here is an example showing my cars current draw of 4 milliamps.
Couple of cautions: Use the highest current range to start and don't forget to put the lead back into the voltage measurement point. It can blow the meters internal current fuse when you measure voltage again as when the meter is in current mode it is a short. Don't ask how I know....
Last edited by Redvette2; Nov 24, 2025 at 12:02 PM.
Reason: Added "off" sentence.
Mystery buzzer
