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Looks like my car has new seat covers. The slot for the shoulder belt was never cut. How is this handled? Can I risk opening this with a razor knife and not ruining the seat? Advice appreciated
Before making the cut in the front of the seat, make sure that you have all of the parts for the pass through at the back of the seat as well. Would be a shame to open up the front and then discover you need several parts at the back (and internally) to make everything function as intended. You can feel the internal shoulder harness guide at the back (underneath the seat cover) to see if it is there, but you’ll need the trim plate/screws if not already installed.
You have the shoulder harnesses already, correct? That can be a pricey acquisition if you don’t already have them.
Hello,
It's a little tricky but can be done if care is taken.
Cut as little as possible.
You'll probably need to soften up the plastic guard at the tongue end of the belt to get it through the slot.
Soaking the end in some hot water for a few minutes helps.
Regards....
Before making the cut in the front of the seat, make sure that you have all of the parts for the pass through at the back of the seat as well. Would be a shame to open up the front and then discover you need several parts at the back (and internally) to make everything function as intended. You can feel the internal shoulder harness guide at the back (underneath the seat cover) to see if it is there, but you’ll need the trim plate/screws if not already installed.
You have the shoulder harnesses already, correct? That can be a pricey acquisition if you don’t already have them.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Thanks for the quick reply.
The guide & trim plate are there. New belts -lap &
shoulder came with the car.
Should I take the back clam off to be sure how things work & are attached?
The guide & trim plate are there. New belts -lap & shoulder came with the car.
Great, then you should have everything that you need.
Should I take the back clam off to be sure how things work & are attached?
You can, but I don’t think that it’s necessary… In fact, I don’t think that you can see any of the shoulder harness hardware without removing several hog rings securing the seat cover. You can get a good idea of what is involved by studying the photos that Alan posted. Using a small, hobby type knife (like an x-acto), using the openings in your trim pieces as a template, and being very careful with your cuts should get the job done.
As Alan mentioned, you can only feed the shoulder harness through the hole if the plastic retainer on the end of the buckle end has been removed (or not installed). I would also refer to his photos before and while doing this job… They are an excellent reference!
Not sure why there is a difference, but I’m guessing that the internal guides ARE in place, otherwise there would be nothing for the outer trim pieces to screw into. There should be two screws attaching each of these internal guides to the seat frame (you can secure it with one, but it originally used two from the factory). Obviously, you can see a screw (s?) on one of your seats… Not sure what is going on with the other although it looks like some seat foam may be covering it.
Not sure why there is a difference, but I’m guessing that the internal guides ARE in place, otherwise Obviously, you can see a screw (s?) on one of your seats… Not sure what is going on with the other although it looks like some seat foam may be covering it.
Regards,
Stan Falenski
I’ll poke around & look a little more closely.
thank for the reply & advice!
You need to make sure that your seats have internal metal parts or there will not be a way to mount the rear bezel. I don’t see your model year in your post, but my 73 did leave the factory without shoulder belts. The long chrome/black pot metal bezel did not have the opening for a shoulder belt. I purchased the internal brackets a the driver and passenger pot metal bezel that the shoulder harness goes through. I had to add the brackets and the long pot metal bezel, which required removing some of the wires on the seat back. Then after mounting the brackets and bezel, I used a hog ring pliers from Harbor Freight to reattach the wires. It was a pretty easy job, go slow and you don’t want to cut anything until you know what your seats have inside them. I used some large clamps to compress the foam when installing the long pot metal bezel. You can pull the shoulder belt with the rubber cover through the seat by attaching it to a couple of zip ties, also warming the rubber boot helps.
You need to make sure that your seats have internal metal parts or there will not be a way to mount the rear bezel. I don’t see You can pull the shoulder belt with the rubber cover through the seat by attaching it to a couple of zip ties, also warming the rubber boot helps.
Thanks for the additional info. Car is a
1973. It has new belts. One of the old shoulder belt boots was stuck in one of the guides. The internal belt guides are holding the foward bezel in place. Rear opening covers screws are anchored in steel. The rear shoulder holes were “hand cut”. Hope I’m not missing anything.