Leak down test on a 350
Now that I’m doing further work on the engine and still waiting for some tools and parts, I started with a leak down test today to check the rings of the pistons.
But…
- A lot of videos say to use 100 psi. Is 100 psi not too much for the ‘old’ engine?
- When I put #1 on TDC with the piston stop (plug) tool while looking at the valves and then use of the leak tester with some pressure (60-70 psi), the engine wants to turn… I have too hold the crank in place with a braker bar and the crank socket. Is this normal? It really feels like a lot of force.
Am I doing something wrong?
- The engine will try to rotate when the air pressure is applied.
- The 100psi isn't too much when you consider how much a cylinder's volume is compressed by the piston for the compression stroke when running -- 9:1 CR = ~130psi.
- 100psi is an easy and convenient number to use to calculate the % loss. With 100psi input, 80psi on the "output" gauge is a 20% loss, 40psi is a 60% loss, etc. If you use other input psi, you've got to do a little calculating to find the percentage loss.
Perhaps piston is Not Exactly at TDC; perhaps it's slightly over center ?
FWIW, most OE sbc pistons (and many aftermarket replacement-grade too) have a slightly (about 0.030" to 0.060") offset wristpin.
This offset designed to help minimize "piston-slap" noise and stress to skirts.
This offset results in a slight difference to where and how the piston "dwells" when at / near true TDC.
This may require You to position piston just a tiny bit before Or after "apparent" TDC in order for it to stabilize in bore, when filling combustion chamber to 100 psi.
You may find further insight into & explanation of these matters if/when you study Pistons' and Bores' "Major and Minor Thrust".
Your piston does Not HAVE to be EXACTLY at TDC when performing leakdown tests; But it does HAVE to be stable in bore.
*Lastly, do be careful ! 100 psi can slam a piston down and twist a wrench with enough force to seriously injure you.









