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Fuel comes from passenger side like my 66, then has a filter and crosses over the front to the driver side of carb, yes has electric choke. is that normal for 69? my 66 is a Spring/temp choke factory holly.
Yes I am sure the guys that have it are just barley car people getting it fired, old filters, old gas, old plugs, ext and I have seen it run and move down the road.. I think my dad likes that its not rusty, great paint and inside has all the stock stuff there. We can make it run, and drive and then he has a pretty driver. I agree the price is not ideal. but When shopping i dont see anything closer for that kind of money?
It's those chrome bumpers.....almost like a C3 tax....
This is true! haha he only likes the chrome bumper C3s. I as well. Now I can find some 77s or other years clean and driving for 9-12k ha. but thats not the same as a shiny 69 haha
I think he likes that its very shiny and good chrome, the 66 the chrome is old, paint falling off. I have it running and driving good, about to be better (redoing all bushings and fornt end and steering box). but its not good on the eyes other then body lines and side pipes ha.
LT-1 didn't come with a double pumper. Vacuum secondaries. Unless you meant a dual feed fuel line and not a double pumper.
*edit. Just went back and looked at the pic of the carb. Not sure what that is as the fuel lines are on the driver side and I don't see any sight glass or fuel bowl side plugs to set the float level. Does have vacuum secondaries...I think. Electric choke too. Not an LT-1 carb though.
I guess I did mean dual feed because I didn't know there was a difference between dual feed and double pumper. Now I do...
To know for sure what the carb is look for the part number. Don't know exactly what is on that car but this is what the numbers look like on a Holley 650:
Will do, just got off phone, looks like I will be picking up the car for 23 on Friday for my dad. Welcome all comments ha. I asked for advice and mostly going against it but, its his purchase just trying to advise and help where i can.
Don’t be afraid to walk away if you encounter more issues before buying it. Some people on here are very knowledgeable about these cars. It looks like it should clean up really nice though.
And no, electric chokes weren’t a thing until 1980.
Yes sir I have no problems walking away, and if I found something BAD would push my dad back in the truck ha. More to come...
Will be checking numbers on block to see if matches as that will make me feel better buying in general just because.
Interesting on the electric choke. *I assume its wired to the starting solenoid. then springs back. I am sure we can swap back to normal carb and air cleaner, get it running and driving. I am sure he is going to tinker with it. ha
I am suite your eyes are hurting from all the replies. My brief thought is like buying a new car, get the list of options and then check dealerships for the lowest price out the door. When buying a classic car that has a ton of aftermarket parts, there is no way to come up with a true price comparison. Good Luck on your journey
Well it sounds to me like you and your Dad want a car you can work on, fix up and drive. One project at a time (suspension, engine, interior, etc.) and that car could easily fit the bill.ha.
Won't be an NCRS car but I don't think you care about that and that is good. ha.
Well it sounds to me like you and your Dad want a car you can work on, fix up and drive. One project at a time (suspension, engine, interior, etc.) and that car could easily fit the bill.ha.
Won't be an NCRS car but I don't think you care about that and that is good. ha.
Yes basically never going to shows and NCRS or anything. My 66 is matching numbers, no hit body, and I kinda wish it was flared fenders and Big block swapped haha. But is what it is. But the weird thing is the 66 is my project with him... I guess I have been to slow, because he called me OUT OF NO wear wanting this one ha. I send him all kinds of old cars just to look and talk about them. Then random call weeks later after this was was sent , "is this was still for sale" so I guess We will have a C 2 and C3 that both need work.. haha what ever. I guess my collection later in life will be good.
I just spent a couple of months searching for a C3 so know what you are going through, that's why I was trying to help. Ended up getting a '73 coupe with L82 4-speed. In similar shape to yours, original engine but made into a 383 stroker.
I like '68-69 better but found a good deal locally on the '73. Good you got a 4-speed, and I really like the LT-1 hood. You may have something cool going on with the engine so hope you keep updating here when you find out more about it!
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Curious how you can make an offer of any amount not knowing if the motor is original / numbers matching or not ? I'm with DKM & brakes are on hard @ $15,000 with original motor only.
First off want to thank everyone for the info and thoughts, I am sure some think my dad over paid, but the car is now in my shop. Have spend some time with my dad and looking it over and tinkering. I dont see shiny pretty 69s for less money even though other on here say its sub 15k car. We will get it running and then he can tinker as he goes as well.
Inside cleaned up VERY nice. only thing to replace would be carpet kit. I had a set of C3 black floor matts so put those in it and it all came very clean. no cracks in dash or anything.
It is not matching numbers, Block is stamped "C41154741 KO3 25 TMM". So 1974 Chevy 350 is all I know so far, will do more research on that today. Pulled plugs and Starter barley spins motor with no compression, so pretty sure starter took a beathing when they tried to get it running. New plugs installed and will get a starter coming so we get it running. drain gas and filters ands stuff.
I found this on a list for Chevy engine codes. Looks like you already figured out it's the '74, you can be sure by the engine block date code on top back of engine, driver's side I think:
Edit: Nope, passenger side...
Last edited by zxryder72; Nov 24, 2025 at 04:47 PM.
So it has a C vin code that seems to be cars? but a lot of confusing info. What about heads? could it be reused corvette heads ? do that have numbers oto verify them as well I assume.
Muncie is a 3851325 casting,
3831707 on the shift fort cover
3857584 on the tail housing
..
