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Any info on the rest of the numbers? I am Fairley confident it will be running the day or 2 after a new starter arrives. I saw it run in person and a miss and idled bad... all on old fuel... new fuel, filter, carb clean, and new plugs and wires... bet that parts fine. If all good will check for leaks, maybe needs a rear main seal and a pan gasket or something but all easy vs paint! ha. Time will tell.
Just putting together what all is actuall there for my notes.
I tried to look up info on the carb part number. 80457-8 is an aftermarket performance upgrade part, not something that came stock on a car. Lots of info out there on an 80457 but hard to track anything down on the -8 part. My guess with the date code on it would be from 1989. Contender manifold is from '80s/'90s I think, they don't make them anymore but it's a good manifold. So maybe carb and manifold were put on somewhere around that time?
Maybe contact Holley and ask what rebuild kit will work for that carb? Maybe someone else on here has carburetor advice...
Yes I took a pic as well. The valve cover has a baffle in it, so can't see anything.
Trans wise looks like Maine casting says 64-65, side cover is a 63-65 early side cover with stud shift shafts, and tail housing is 66-70 with passenger side speedo, 27 spline.
Eventually if you take a valve cover off you can look for the number. Someone maybe could tell you about the heads from looking at them, maybe get some good photos from different angles.
I have research to do on mine too. It was rebuilt into a 383, seller said he had paperwork for the engine build but then couldn't find it. So, I don't know what cam is in it, what kind of pistons, compression ratio, if head work was done, etc. I'd like to know all that stuff.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by zxryder72
Eventually if you take a valve cover off you can look for the number. Someone maybe could tell you about the heads from looking at them, maybe get some good photos from different angles.
I have research to do on mine too. It was rebuilt into a 383, seller said he had paperwork for the engine build but then couldn't find it. So, I don't know what cam is in it, what kind of pistons, compression ratio, if head work was done, etc. I'd like to know all that stuff.
Originally Posted by mittens
I have no hate at all for it and that's an awesome C3 and a good buy. But My father has no interest in anything but a Chrome bumper 69/68 C3. So not sure what else to say about it. bad buy or not. he wanted it ha. I included a picture of the inside after cleaning door panels, dash, and seats, and a quick vacuum job. I can't imagine the car having much better interior other then carpet. the Seats them selves are soft to the touch better than most used cars. So maybe replaced but either way not bad. Also someone said something about head rests being rare? anyway simple pic of inside clean
On for information.
Carb - has 2 numbers 1761 On the driver side, and on the main part (like your pic), 80457-8 and 1289 under that. Holley Performance on both front and back bowls. Looks like thats a 600 cfm holley.
Intake - cant not find any numbers, but its a Holley Contender intake. With firing order and Cylinders numbered.
Block - back of engine I can't see Passenger side, but the driver side casting number is 3970010, The stamp pad is C41154741, K03, 25, TMM (Tmm says 1974 truck block, but C starting the Vin google says certain
cars so not sure but probably truck block)
Trans- Muncie is a 3851325 casting, 3831707 on the shift fork cover, 3857584 on the tail housing
Well, "SOMEONE" is misinformed ! There is NOTHING "RARE" about headrests in a 1969 ( they were STANDARD in 1969 ) in some cases listed earlier as a mandatory / required option.
headrests became standard in 1969 Corvettes after January 1, 1969, due to a safety regulation change and to address complaints about interior space. While the model year began with them as an optional feature, they were mandated by the U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) for all new cars manufactured from January 1, 1969, onwards.
Mandated by safety standards: The U.S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) required head restraints in all new passenger cars manufactured on or after January 1, 1969, to reduce neck injury risk in collisions.
Standard after a specific date: 1969 Corvettes built before January 1, 1969, did not have them as standard, and they were originally an optional feature for the model year.
Optional delete: Even after they became standard, the option could be deleted for a credit, though this was uncommon.
Someone probably was thinking about '68, not '69, with the headrest thing:
"1968 was the last year for low back seats. Headrests (RPO A82, $42.00) had been available starting in 1967 and only 7.68% of the Corvettes were equipped with them. That percentage went up to 11.19% in 1968. They were listed as the same option in 1969 (for $18.00) but due to federal safety regulations, all Corvettes were equipped with them."
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by zxryder72
Someone probably was thinking about '68, not '69, with the headrest thing:
"1968 was the last year for low back seats. Headrests (RPO A82, $42.00) had been available starting in 1967 and only 7.68% of the Corvettes were equipped with them. That percentage went up to 11.19% in 1968. They were listed as the same option in 1969 (for $18.00) but due to federal safety regulations, all Corvettes were equipped with them."
I thought I once read somewhere, that in very late 1968, that the number was much, much less then even that, only approx 50 - 60 cars total left the factory with headrests, but obviously I can not confirm
"Block - back of engine I can't see Passenger side, but the driver side casting number is 3970010, The stamp pad is C41154741, K03, 25, TMM (Tmm says 1974 truck block, but C starting the Vin google says certain cars so not sure but probably truck block)"
I checked and found I got a photo of the block casting date on mine pretty easily. Valve cover was leaking down there and was hard to see at first. I wiped off the oil, and the number was right there. I saw two possibilities for the TMM stamp so might be worthwhile to look again for the block date.
3970010 is a good block. Came with either two bolt or four bolt main bearings. One of the TMM engines from the listing I posted earlier appears to be an LT9 which is a four bolt. If your block date is 1980 it would probably be the LT9:
The Chevy LT9 engine specifications are as follows:
Horsepower: 160 bhp @ 3800 rpm
Torque: 250 lb-ft @ 2800 rpm
Compression Ratio: 8.3:1
Block Type: 4-bolt main block with a 2-piece rear main seal
Last edited by zxryder72; Nov 27, 2025 at 09:45 AM.
I thought I once read somewhere, that in very late 1968, that the number was much, much less then even that, only approx 50 - 60 cars total left the factory with headrests, but obviously I can not confirm
my early 69 was ordered with the OPTIONAL headrests... at least that's what my original bill of sale and tank sticker says...
Just because the car isn't totally original doesn't mean you cannot go out and enjoy it for what it is. Looks like a nice car, would likely be a great ride when spring comes around. Despite high production
numbers, there doesn't appear to be many C3s on the road anymore that I see, so just enjoy it.
got a new starter from Zip in but its not correct, the mounting pads have been shaved off, weird casting. will be returning that, also ordering a new battery cables, to get this things spinning over. New fuel filter, and some fuel line as well... shipping and thanks giving makes for slow times.
Will look again for Date code.
I have found a brake fluid leak, between the Master and the booster... anyone have that apart and know what to expect to replace? Master is cheap seal between the 2?
got a new starter from Zip in but its not correct, the mounting pads have been shaved off, weird casting. will be returning that, also ordering a new battery cables, to get this things spinning over. New fuel filter, and some fuel line as well... shipping and thanks giving makes for slow times.
Will look again for Date code.
I have found a brake fluid leak, between the Master and the booster... anyone have that apart and know what to expect to replace? Master is cheap seal between the 2?
I overlooked this before, but I think the second digit on the partial VIN stamp is the year for the engine assembly. C41154741, so you would have the '74 engine, I think.
Last edited by zxryder72; Dec 1, 2025 at 03:35 PM.
Starter came in and its not correct, the mounting pads have been shaved off (From Zip, pics show pads there, but starter in hand shaved flat, adn shorter snout?)
New wiring on its way as well, and rear bolts. once we getting it spinning over then can work out some details. Will look for Date code, been a busy week.
Starter came in and its not correct, the mounting pads have been shaved off (From Zip, pics show pads there, but starter in hand shaved flat, adn shorter snout?)
New wiring on its way as well, and rear bolts. once we getting it spinning over then can work out some details. Will look for Date code, been a busy week.
Why are you ordering a common/expendable part from a Corvette vendor, especially when you know your engine isn't close to original? Personally, I'd just take it to any NAPA, O'Reilly, Advance or Autozone. Match it up and be done with it. No waiting, no guessing and no return shipping.
Why are you ordering a common/expendable part from a Corvette vendor, especially when you know your engine isn't close to original? Personally, I'd just take it to any NAPA, O'Reilly, Advance or Autozone. Match it up and be done with it. No waiting, no guessing and no return shipping.
This is eactly what I am doing now ha. It looked like the 66 starter and was cheaper from Zip (112) then google.... So I took a shot at ordering it. But did not work. so now back to old school parts store.
Going with a gear reduction or standard starter? I went with the gear reduction on my 75 since it is a non-original low-value model anyway. So much better.
As far as the project, if it were me, I would feel good about the purchase simply to spend time with my dad. Lost mine in 2018. I would readily spend too much money on a project car just to fix it up with him now.
Remember - the stopping is more important than the going. Get the brake system in top shape first.
Going with a gear reduction or standard starter? I went with the gear reduction on my 75 since it is a non-original low-value model anyway. So much better.
As far as the project, if it were me, I would feel good about the purchase simply to spend time with my dad. Lost mine in 2018. I would readily spend too much money on a project car just to fix it up with him now.
Remember - the stopping is more important than the going. Get the brake system in top shape first.
Yea its good times with him. I mean we argue but that's part of it. ha But just funny as That was the kinda a the purpose of the 66 Coupe, and now he picks up this one ha/. C2 runs and drives, bad paint, this one shinny does not run yet ha.
Little update/ questions
having hard time gtting the car to spin the motor over to play with getting it started.
I have replaced the Hot and ground battery cables; Verified the Ignition is working. I have the main starter post with the new Direct hot to battery, and the Main 12V to car, When I push key in I get the open door buzzer. like should.
.The right small term on starter (S) is the START / 12V when you hit rotate key all the way to Start the car.
The left side is 12V in both the RUN position and the start position, and off when key is off. Powering the coil.
But when I try and start the car, IT click the starter and Pops the Ignition fuse. Which is kind of confusing as it was not doing that before it would just turn over the motor very slow liek weak battery, or starter or connections. now with good connection, POP.
Any ideas to check welcome.
Also have rebuild a brake masker and bleed system and found a leaking Caliper and have a rebuild kit for that as well.
( they were STANDARD in 1969 ) in some cases listed earlier as a mandatory / required option. 
