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]Starter came in and its not correct, the mounting pads have been shaved off (From Zip, pics show pads there, but starter in hand shaved flat, adn shorter snout?)
New wiring on its way as well, and rear bolts. once we getting it spinning over then can work out some details. Will look for Date code, been a busy week.
Seems as though you received the proverbial red-headed bastard stepchild, a sooner. Probably built from separate piles of noses, piles of cases, piles of armatures, piles of field coils, piles of pole shoes + piles of brush holders --- piles from which some 'operator' cobbles together a set that had never seen or been married to any of those cousins. Sometimes all that adds up to an approximate sum; other times Not.
A more modern, Brand New, PMGR aka PG260 starter is simply much more improved in form, fit, function And reliability.
Ya know, there's only one starter that's truly original to this car, and it seems you don't possess that one. In lieu of that unicorn, suggest choose a better one.
she is running! Has some lope to it, pretty tame mufflers. Got it idling around 800 currently.
When we got car the Hot lead was the issue. It Had a battery post clamp, to a 5-inch wire to another batter post clamp, then to factory wire... that had gotten into the drive shaft and was cut and torn on a clamp.... when removing it came out if 3 sections. So VERY Weak connection. So replaced both the Hot and Ground side.....
This fixed the Hot side, but introduced a bad ground. Figured out the correct grounding location, tapped hole, new bolt and washer, sanded frame for 100% go0d contact... bam. spins over like champ. Added fuel to front bowl, fired up on first hit.
Starter works but every 2-3 Hits just spins and not engaging the flywheel, so will get a good replacement now (whatever fits). But was testing good on bench and used for trouble shooting. and made some progress. We have rebuild the master cylinder (Fixed that leaking at the vacuum can/master junction), bleed brakes and found leaking front right caliper. so caliper rebuild kit is in hand will knock that out and bleed it. Then should be good for short test drive around the block.
As dig into other repairs you will find grounds in various locations. Take the time to remove and clean those no matter how good they look. What lurks beneath can’t be seen without removal.
she is running! Has some lope to it, pretty tame mufflers. Got it idling around 800 currently.
When we got car the Hot lead was the issue. It Had a battery post clamp, to a 5-inch wire to another batter post clamp, then to factory wire... that had gotten into the drive shaft and was cut and torn on a clamp.... when removing it came out if 3 sections. So VERY Weak connection. So replaced both the Hot and Ground side.....
This fixed the Hot side, but introduced a bad ground. Figured out the correct grounding location, tapped hole, new bolt and washer, sanded frame for 100% go0d contact... bam. spins over like champ. Added fuel to front bowl, fired up on first hit.
Starter works but every 2-3 Hits just spins and not engaging the flywheel, so will get a good replacement now (whatever fits). But was testing good on bench and used for trouble shooting. and made some progress. We have rebuild the master cylinder (Fixed that leaking at the vacuum can/master junction), bleed brakes and found leaking front right caliper. so caliper rebuild kit is in hand will knock that out and bleed it. Then should be good for short test drive around the block.
Was in heavy urban traffic earlier and while dawdling, I took note of bumper sticker; seems appropriate here.
sticker bore a silhouette of some form or another of a figure in a cross-legged Yoga pose.
immediately below silhouette is large caption SIT HAPPENS.
as it would happen, I hadn't the presence of mind to snap a pic.
suggest a new, modern PMGR aka PG260 starter (with new bolts) all remarkably inexpensive
So when I search for new starters, chevy or the aftermarket smaller PMGR aka PG260 ones. THe round bulb/ part that goes into the bellhousings is too big. The starter is kinda tapered? my dad picked up one he thought was a fit, and the bulb again was too big.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
What's wrong with with an OEM A/C Delco GM Starter ??
For a 1969 Corvette, common AC Delco remanufactured starter part numbers include 336-1836 (19136145) for various applications, 336-1847, and 336-1870. For automatic transmissions, the ACDelco number 88863065 is often cited, while 88863068 fits small-block applications. Key 1969 Corvette AC Delco Starter Options:
ACDelco 336-1836: Popular remanufactured unit covering many 1962–1975 Chevy applications, including the 1969 Corvette.
My dad got a old shop locally to rebuild the "factory" once today. we will see how it works. at least we know it fits with no shims. the solenoid was sticking and sometimes just spin... other times grab flywheel and spin now that we have power and ground issues worked out.
Once wiring was fixed we just had intermittent engagement. My dad decided to have rebuilt today. was done in a few hours.
Updating this thread.
Car is now running and driving. Now on to some smaller things like brake lights and power steering leak, then some driving. ha But smooth at 70mph and handles tight.
So headlight bulbs work lows & brights, all 4 corner lights work.
rear I have outer running lights. Only.
I used to have working brake lights. But after the starting issue with bad ground. The car made artificial ground & pop the tail light fuse.... now got all that fixed. But install new 20amp fuse in brake lights... it does not pop starting. Or running lights, but tap brakes & pop.... checked bulbs in all 4 rear.
flasher? Ideas?
I have dual bulbs in outside ones (brake/turn & running)
& single filament in inner. So only reverse or only running? There is no reverse switch installed on Muncie. But both inners don't light either. So maybe they on brake side?
Car is a 1969, 67K ish in odo (did not write details down should have) Small block, 4speed, factory AC car. Power brakes, Power steering, power windows as well. Trim tag is still in door jam with a corner kinda over the edge, Google shows this is somewhat common when they did not get it on flat spot from factory? But also people replace them... Tag shows its a Le Mans Blue (976), standard black vinyl interior (ZQ4), Built October 7th, 1969 (C07). and car is le Mans blue and black basic insides.
Its a small block car, told original (whole knows but does look all factory with the exception of a holly carb, all AC stuff there and old rusty exhaust manifolds that look like the have never been removed.)
Trim tag looks fine in the photos, but would need to see it in person to be absolutely certain. You mention the tag date as “C07”…. Just looking at it and knowing a thing or two about 1969 trim tags, I’m going to say that is probably a “G” (February 1969) and not a “C” (October 1968)… So G03. You can check it against the VIN. I’m thinking the sequential serial number of the car is going to be in the low 15000 range. The trim tag mounting for these cars were all over the place… Some were centered very well, others (like my late 1969) hung over the bottom edge, while others (like this car) were jammed into the upper ridge, causing the upper tips to be bent.
This is a comp (I’m guessing) for this car. You can see the “G” with no serif across the bottom and installed in the same manner.
Your assessment of the car as an L-46 appears to be correct as well. If the engine is original to the car, it will have pertinent information on the stamp pad (which should back up what you learned from the tachometer. Nice set of options! A/C, p/s, p/b, p/w and a four speed (should be an M-20 with the a/c and probably backed up with a 3.36 or 3.55 rear)… Good stuff!
As to value… I doubt that you are going to find anything presentable AND running in a 1968 to 1972 Corvette for less than $20,000. If the car has no structural issues or major body damage, you’re probably in that range. Apparently there are some problems to address so you can use that during negotiations to work the price down, but obviously it’s something that you’ll have to deal with if your father does decide to buy it.
Edited… Looks like you did buy it.
Good luck!
Regards,
Stan Falenski
Last edited by Rowdy Rat; Jan 23, 2026 at 12:55 AM.
Reason: To note you bought the car.
Trim tag looks fine in the photos, but would need to see it in person to be absolutely certain. You mention the tag date as “C07”…. Just looking at it and knowing a thing or two about 1969 trim tags, I’m going to say that is probably a “G” (February 1969) and not a “C” (October 1968)… So G03. You can check it against the VIN. I’m thinking the sequential serial number of the car is going to be in the low 15000 range. The trim tag mounting for these cars were all over the place… Some were centered very well, others (like my late 1969) hung over the bottom edge, while others (like this car) were jammed into the upper ridge, causing the upper tips to be bent.
This is a comp (I’m guessing) for this car. You can see the “G” with no serif across the bottom and installed in the same manner.
Your assessment of the car as an L-46 appears to be correct as well. If the engine is original to the car, it will have pertinent information on the stamp pad (which should back up what you learned from the tachometer. Nice set of options! A/C, p/s, p/b, p/w and a four speed (should be an M-20 with the a/c and probably backed up with a 3.36 or 3.55 rear)… Good stuff!
As to value… I doubt that you are going to find anything presentable AND running in a 1968 to 1972 Corvette for less than $20,000. If the car has no structural issues or major body damage, you’re probably in that range. Apparently there are some problems to address so you can use that during negotiations to work the price down, but obviously it’s something that you’ll have to deal with if your father does decide to buy it.
Edited… Looks like you did buy it.
Good luck!
Regards,
Stan Falenski
So the production number / last of VIN is 15,064 (out if 38,762 made in 1969) So 39% of the way though production year So Feb / G03 sounds correct mathematically, 38 % of the way though 17 months of production for 1969s, is 6.5 months - Jan/feb of 69.
We did buy it. Its running and riving now. Numbers on trans show M20, geared higher then my M21/3.70 C2. So I think 3.36 rear, but is not factory either so will count one day. Math on speedo and tires says 3.36. Its not factory motor, (truck block), holly intake and carb, and Body is not all original, but looks good and drives nice now. Just working out lights and then on to more things. Some may say we over paid, but I don't see many clean paint running and driving 69s for less. So he is happy.
Chasing a Brake light issue we cause with bad grounding before. If we replace the fuse, the turn signals work. if you hit the brakes the fuse pops and then no more Turn signals. EDIT fixed with new Brake switch, guessing the false ground took it out, now replaced all works.
Well, took some time (my not checking plugs cost me some time for sure) but drove it to work today! All lights working! Also got some vacuum stuff worked out last night & headlights are working up & down like they should... passenger is little lazy, I will lube its mechanics & check for small leaks, but it works. It comes up 3/4 way and closes 99%. So you can start car and turn them on and help it or close it when needed and driving around with out them it looks normal and nothing creeping up winking.
Wiper door is staying shut driving but if you get on it creeps open as it losses vacuum so I am sure there is a leak there. Also I have a mystery hose under dash so will work on it. more
But we have a running & driving, shiny 69. Pics in my work parking lot this morning at sunrise.
I changed oil once carb was rebuilt (stopped dumping all the fuel into motor) to get gas out of oil. Drove it around some then changed it again last night. so should be good for some cruising and finding more problems. Power steering leaks horrible, and rear main. So betting those are addressed sooner then later.
I have a Hust shifter rebuild kit, & steel bushings that came in, I plan to do this weekend. Then maybe my dad will drive it some & I will take 66 apart. This old Hurst is loose ha. i rebuilt the old Hurst i bought and installed in 66 and feels Tight, so hopefully will fix that on this raining weekend.
Checking speed with GPS, I think the cars is 3.55 or 3.70 they are so close not sure ha. Leaning to 3.55
Is that how they came and the guy who painted it missed it? EDITZ looks like i found my answer.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Also note that the rear-most louver is NOT open to the engine compartment. In '68 & '69, GM painted that surface with semi-flat (or satin) black paint so it would "appear" to be open. That needs to be done whether with or without the metal louver inserts.
I need to figure out what the Pull vents chrome ***** are supposed to do as well, because right now nothing haha. Looks like they open and close that round vent? but there is 3 "positions" in 1/2 and out? also is that cable controlled or vacuum? control flapper?
