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Got it up in the air and ran into the first problem. WHODATHUNKIT
Drain plug frozen solid, I am guessing cross threaded. Even holding it I was bending the actual radiator tank itself.
Cowling out. See the other problem on a 1969 350 man trans and no AC? Yep, wrong radiator.
Thats OK, it fits.........
No pressure tank
So the first parts, headers and clutch kit already arrived from Summit.
I am torn on the radiator. I am guessing it is for a 69, not a non AC manual though. IF I can get the plug out I think I could reuse, but then the custom cowling would need to go back in. OR go aluminum drop in with a new cowling and a pressure tank. Leaning to going new.
Leaning to the new rad because I am not a mechanic but I did change a starter at a Holiday Inn and I am pretty sure after the engine is done I wont be pulling anything except out of parking lots.
Plan for engine is a refresh. It is original numbers matching and I like that, if it needs honed or taken 30 over, I can live with that. I'm old and have been as fast as I need to be 350hp is enough with whatever I get from letting it breathe a little better with headers and exhaust.
Yes a coolant overflow tank is a very good thing.
And just my thought, but a radiator that fits and works is not the wrong radiator. But I'm definitely not a NCRS type.
My December 1969 production 1969 350/350 4 speed/non- A/C has the copper radiator with no expansion tank. I just finished searching the forum and found many posts on 1969 radiator configurations. The strike in 1969 had profound effects on supply chains so it may be that The General installed whatever they had in stock.
Swapping over to the aluminum design also requires changing the core support, shroud, hoses, tank bracket and tank so can get spendy.
My December 1969 production 1969 350/350 4 speed/non- A/C has the copper radiator with no expansion tank. I just finished searching the forum and found many posts on 1969 radiator configurations. The strike in 1969 had profound effects on supply chains so it may be that The General installed whatever they had in stock.
Swapping over to the aluminum design also requires changing the core support, shroud, hoses, tank bracket and tank so can get spendy.
My early 70 350/350 has no tank as well and like the above photo the factory dimples are not drilled out for the bracket.
im of the impression the L46 didnt use one
So are any of your cowlings custom cut to make the radiator fit? Engine is Aug 14th. Not sure when the strike was. Born on date is 10 Sept 69
Either way, I am still thinking replacement simply because I know this car sat, and after draining I am seeing rust and chunks. Once I get it out today I can drain it. .... hmmmm, I wonder if I have a radiator shop close, pretty sure I do... might do a refresh.....
Don't bore oversize any farther than is required to provide ideal wall surface for good ring seal. Many shelf pistons available in +0.020" (not all, but many).
If changing pistons, Do choose one whose ring grooves are intended for modern thin, metric ringpak.
If servicing OE iron heads, and if its Integral valve guides are badly worn; don't be led into installing entire valve guides. Instead,
Do install guide-Liners such as K-Liner (brand).
If you still have matching numbers, don't let them deck your numbers off.
I have an original shroud for sale, but it is as much a bitch to get an original in there, as to get it out, maybe more. Choose carefully
Yep, still original matching #'s. I like that even if its never going to be a show car.
My shroud being violated by what looks to be a sawzall is kinda making the choice in that respect. Hard to control air flow with 1/3 of it missing. I need to look at it harder, but I am guessing that an PO did it just because it sucks to get back in and out. If I cant seen anything bent or warped, then that will be on the list.
So are any of your cowlings custom cut to make the radiator fit? Engine is Aug 14th. Not sure when the strike was. Born on date is 10 Sept 69
Either way, I am still thinking replacement simply because I know this car sat, and after draining I am seeing rust and chunks. Once I get it out today I can drain it. .... hmmmm, I wonder if I have a radiator shop close, pretty sure I do... might do a refresh.....
From what I see in other posts, it’s a real mixed bag for the later production 69s. From What I have researched, the St. Louis plant was shut down from April 9 to June 9 ,1969. Your car, like mine, should have been a 1970 model year.
Dunno WHICH vehicles, but will hazard a guess there are some later-model, full-size cars/pickups with Two-piece (upper & lower) shrouds that could be grafted into a C3; and would function well. From experience, I've learned Two-piece shrouds are much easier to work around/with. It seems the OEMs typically position pump-mounted fan blades approx half-in and half-out of shroud opening.
Pulled the carb and more wires and vac lines. Dropped the pipe off of the left manifold.
No rush, still waiting on parts for the engine stand, and I dont know what I am doing so taking my time is just fine.
Good job attacking it! The ‘69 I had… the rad support was much worse off than yours. I can see many “While I’m at it(s)” in your future. Your Bob Ross analogy is spot on!
Varmintmists engine pull
