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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:08 AM
  #21  
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New rotors will work; they come in 005" under original thickness. GM rotors among the best. If they are still range for thickness a simple DA flat grind with 100 grit will deglaze them. How the mating surfaces are prepped makes a huge difference in the outcome for runout. I have been tapping and bolting them on for decades and getting the runout under 003" every time. Works well, so much so some current wanna-be's have been claiming it and copying it.

Regardless of whether new or old rotors are used, they have to be checked, prepped, and dialed in. Turning front rotor assemblies on the conventional brake lathes works. Turning rear rotors other than using an on the car lathe or turning the axle/rotor as one won't work. Many rear rotors were wrecked by turning them on a brake or toolroom lathe since they are not concentric with the axle centerline and will introduce, not reduce, runout.

I won't use or ship out rear TA with rotors with runout over .0025"
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 10:07 AM
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Hot tip for anyone in the future trying to get rotors off. Get an air hammer. They will be your friend on these cars.

Just be careful, they can also f**k everything up in the blink of an eye!
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 04:10 PM
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Got it put back together today and bled. Should have done more research on the Motive pressure bleeder plate before trying. Used the J-hooks and chains, pressured it up, and had a puddle of brake fluid on the floor. Got rid of the J-hooks and chains, and used a large c-clamp and grip clamp and it held 10 psi just fine. Seem to bleed well but the pedal is softer than I like. Will go back through it again.

Finally got to drive the vehicle for the first time.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:10 PM
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Good to be able to drive it. If your pedal is soft sometimes driving it helps bounce those air bubbles loose and giving it another bleed will get em out. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
If you have runout in those new rotors you'll never get a good pedal.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:13 PM
  #25  
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I'm a little late to this but to get a stuck rotor off get longer caliper bolts and drive the caliper off. use a metal paint scraper against the rotor so the bolt doesn't damage it.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Good to be able to drive it. If your pedal is soft sometimes driving it helps bounce those air bubbles loose and giving it another bleed will get em out. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
If you have runout in those new rotors you'll never get a good pedal.
Worst one was 4 mils. I have seen it should be no more than 5 mils or another was 7 mils.

Yep, plan on bleeding again soon. Thank you.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Crimson Thunder
I'm a little late to this but to get a stuck rotor off get longer caliper bolts and drive the caliper off. use a metal paint scraper against the rotor so the bolt doesn't damage it.
Thanks. Thought about this by decided to continue drilling. Took a bit...
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:44 PM
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I'm thinking they shouldn't be more than .005 inch. Or 5 thousands of an inch. 4 mils sounds huge.
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 09:46 PM
  #29  
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Old Mar 14, 2026 | 10:00 PM
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Mils is an old term for thousandth of an inch. Easier to say 4 mils than 4 thousandth of an inch.

Not my definition but: The term "mil" is derived from the Latin word "mille," meaning thousand, and is commonly used to denote a measurement of one-thousandth of an inch (0.001 inches).
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 01:50 AM
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I believe it's commonly used in the metric system. Which I am surrounded by here in Australia.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 09:10 AM
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What is this ‘metric’ measurement you speak of. Us southern hicks don’t know of such things.
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