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I have drilled out seven of the rivet heads. After that, from my reading some hammer out the rivet shaft and others drill it out. Out of the seven, none have been able to be hammered out. I have missed the bit enough that my hand holding the bit it is taking a toll.
I then reverted to drilling out the shaft with a 5/16 bit and did all five on the driver's rear rotor. The bit went successfully through all, but the rotor won't bunged. I know the emergency brake shoes could be holding it but also assume that if I can easily turn the rotor, and driveshafts, the parking brake shoes are not an issue.
Not sure where I am utterly failing on these rivets and getting the rotors off. Any input is greatly appreciated.
I have drilled out seven of the rivet heads. After that, from my reading some hammer out the rivet shaft and others drill it out. Out of the seven, none have been able to be hammered out. I have missed the bit enough that my hand holding the bit it is taking a toll.
I then reverted to drilling out the shaft with a 5/16 bit and did all five on the driver's rear rotor. The bit went successfully through all, but the rotor won't bunged. I know the emergency brake shoes could be holding it but also assume that if I can easily turn the rotor, and driveshafts, the parking brake shoes are not an issue.
Not sure where I am utterly failing on these rivets and getting the rotors off. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Did you try hitting the rotor with a hammer towards its outer diameter?
Back those park brake shoe adjusters right down. There may be a bit of a lip in there from wear. Also getting those shoes pulled in will give you some wiggle room.
Make certain ALL of those old rivets are out.
if ýou perhaps weren't dead center on them parts could still be there.
Back those park brake shoe adjusters right down. There may be a bit of a lip in there from wear. Also getting those shoes pulled in will give you some wiggle room.
Make certain ALL of those old rivets are out.
if ýou perhaps weren't dead center on them parts could still be there.
I can't spin the star wheel. It barely moves.
Just ordered some 11/32 bits (local hardware didn't have that size) which will arrive tomorrow. That was my thought that maybe there is a bit left as the rotor doesn't budge at all.
Just went thru this this weekend. The passenger side had already been off before so had no rivets. Slid right off. The drivers side took some doing. I drilled using the 5/16 and then larger bit until the rivet heads popped off. I could not punch the remaining parts of the rivets thru or remove the rotor to save my life. I used the 5/16 again and went another 1/8 inch in or so to hollow out the rivets still in the rotor. That seemed to work and the rotor was able to be wiggled off. Took an extra 5 minutes to redrill those 5.
Putting the new rotor on with the parking brake shoes not adjusted was fun. The star adjuster was froze. I ended up cleaning the entire parking brake assembly with a can of brake cleaner and brush (where I could reach it), letting dry, then spraying WD-40 on all the components under the shoes. (I wiped the shoes with brake cleaner but was also careful not to spray those with WD-40 when lubing the mechanisms). I blew out all the remaining WD the next morning and everything was free and adjustable. Backed the shoes off and the rotor slid right on. I like to give the shoes and drum a final wipe down first, and also always wipe the rotor down with brake cleaner once installed.
The fronts are easier. Remove bearing and pull entire hub. Drill on a bench and then punch the rivets out. For both it took about 30 minutes total. That included two beers.
Just remember to cool your drill bit in some brake fluid often so you do not hose it up.
Just remember to test your run-out. I bought the Chinese discs from Lonestar (along with full calipers, lines and master cylinder kit) and never measured more than .002 off on all four. Had to flip one of the fronts, but rest were very true.
Thanks for the input. Tackling the rest of the drilling tomorrow after I get home from the office. Gonna continue with the right front to keep my sanity in check that I can get a rotor off.
The worst part is that all the non-rotor items were off in minutes. Car is sitting there with all flex lines and calipers off. These rivets are my nemesis. I've wrenched on many cars, but none have been over eight years old. This is my first time working on one that is 48 years old.
Finally, got three rotors off (will finish the last one tomorrow evening). The difference was using an 11/32 bit. Guess I should rebuild the parking brake as it looks like one of the springs broke and fell out. Shown below. Also, looks like the front right dust shield was replaced as it looks too clean. But then again, I have been wrong about my assumptions on this car.
Doesn't look like it should be loose. Shield too clean. Right Rear Left Rear
Uncertainty. I was never able to drive this vehicle prior to purchasing. The caliper seals were shot so they needed to be replaced. Unsure if the rotors were warped, etc., and with the relative low cost of rotors, I went ahead and replaced since things were part. Gonna check thickness on them and then test runout. If all good, will keep them in hand.
Wear is easy to spot and measure. Pitting, also easy to spot. C3 rotors warped? I'm certain it must be possible, but I personally have never seen it. The original rotors are damn near bullet proof. The replacements, not so much.
An average machinist can resurface rotors without removing the rivets. I resurfaced my rotors and remove only .005"/.0025" per side...(The width of a human hair). Some rotors may need .010 removed///the less removed, the better.
Brake Rotor Rivets
