When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I put a set of adjustable in with the poly bushings back in the 90's and they are still working. no deterioration of the poly. what the quality of the poly is nowadays I do not know. if I did it again I would probably get the strut rods with the heim joints.
Pat
I had the shop tear my rear suspension apart for a refresh and the original strut rod bushings were fully trashed. After 46 years they had all pretty much fallen apart. The shop preferred the adjustable strut rods but they were willing to just replace the bushings if I would pay for the extra R&R labor. I provide the parts either way per the shops request. Just was not worth keeping it stock. I caved in and purchased the adjustable rods and the rear was aligned perfectly. No regrets.
Last edited by stingr69; May 18, 2026 at 09:22 AM.
by no means an expert... but i would bet the adjustable easier to put in.
I cannot get out of my mind is the rigidity of the oem strut helps with and torsional resistance and how that plays into handling. I do not know but the ball ends would not have this rigidity so not sure good bad or doesn't matter..
just an opinion..
I put the poly adjustable strut rods in my 77 back in the 90's sometime. The stock rods were just such a hassle to adjust and keep in adjustment. About 2 1/2 years ago I converted them over to heim joints, just because I could.
The poly wad a little compressed after all thous years. But generally just fine. The Heim joints just move a bit smoother and retain more rigidity. Just a bit better.
I bought/put together/made my own- think I was all in for $160 - about $20 less if you go with steel ends
I ended up with greasable moly heim joints- I used staggered sizes- 5/8" to 1/2" hole for the bracket-just like OE. No misalignment spacers needed- just cone spacers and a couple of thick washers- and it's a nice tight fit.
Used 3/8" flat steel to keep them centered. 4" grade 8 bolt and a nyloc.
5/8"X16tpi 1/2" heim only 1/2id X 1/2" width spacers are needed for bolting up.
If the suspension parts are in good condition, there is nothing wrong with stock rods. If the bushings are shot, you can easily replace them. When I built my vettes, I kept stock rods because I built the complete IRS. The diff axles were set to 005" endplay, the outer bearings machine fit for -0- lateral play, the stock rods worked great without any adjustment issues or loosening up.
I've run them for years. Just make sure you mark the jam-nuts as they will back off over time. I've never had this happen though. I used orange nail polish so I can quickly inspect them every so often. Got a picture around somewhere.
Any solid type bushing does give a harsher ride and transmits noise. The stock rubber is fine for me 🙂
This.
Unless 80% or more of the time you track the car, autocross etc, you will hate poly or any kind of solid mount anywhere on the suspension. Stick with rubber mounts for street use.
Last edited by LT1M21Vette; May 20, 2026 at 11:35 AM.
Go with the adjustable strut rods. No question, not even close. Huge improvement over the factory setup.
I have had mine under the care for thirty years with poly bushings. That was supposed to be the way to go in those days, but if I had it to do over, I would choose rubber bushings. The strut rods haven't been a problem, but pretty much every other poly bushing in the car squeaks.
And I agree with Theandies, whichever way you go, get yourself some Torque Seal and mark the jam nuts so you can tell at a glance if they have come loose.
Late June I will install the new Strut Rods...
In the meantime I think I have worked out a plan to remove the original strut rods...
A couple weeks ago I changed the differential fluid, and soaked down the shock mount/strut rod mount with 50/50 Acetone & ATF mixture...
Well today I jacked up the rear and gave both L & R sides another soak...
I know there are tools out there to knock out the old shock mount, and I just hate beating the crap out of anything on any of my cars...
So here is what I have made up so far as a tool..
I have both the.401 & .498 air hammers...
I bought the .498 specifically to use on a few items on my tractor...
I purchased a 5/8 X 18 threaded coupling $5.00
A 5/8 X 18 X 5/8" hardened set screw $3.00...
When the time comes I will remove the castle nut, screw on the threaded coupling leaving a few threads showing and then bottom out the set screw against the shock mount shaft...
Once I see movement I can then backoff the setscrew and coupling until I see a few more threads...
Rinse and repeat...
.498 Air Hammer = Paid For
Coupling & Set Screw About $9.00 after sales tax...
This is just an idea I had...
Last edited by bmotojoe; May 29, 2026 at 10:46 PM.
IF you have some free cash, buy adjustable struts. The Oem rods work well..it just takes a little more effort to adjust them.
10 years ago Poly was garbage...maybe they have inproved the bushings since then?
I understand where you're coming from, as I purchased a number of poly bushings from Energy Suspension, in the 80s and early 90s, and they were 100% OK. However, I also bought some poly parts, as part of a "kit", from one of the now defunct Corvette parts suppliers, and they turned out to be "second rate", at best. In retrospect, I feel sorry for the fellow who bought the car from us, as those poly parts probably failed him a few years after he got the car.
I also installed adjustable rods but could not get them tight enough for the nut to not back off. Fix was to purchase 3/4” lock washers with internal teeth from tractor supply. So far so good.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Adjustable Strut Rods
