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eDead sound deadening material

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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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Default eDead sound deadening material

Anyone used this stuff. It looks like typical asphalt sound deadener like Dynamat, but the price actually seems reasonable.

http://www.edesignaudio.com/edead.htm

Additionally, I remember a thread where someone mentioned installing sound deadener in the doors. Anyone have a procedure on this or can provide guidance as to where they put it?

Thanks much.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:19 AM
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Yeah... I don't know about that stuff. Someone has to have used this in their car. From what it looks, that edead is comparable to fatmat and brown bread. I'm going to be doing mine this weekend and would also like to know what is good. Fatmat claims that their stuff is more effective than dynomat.

- Michael
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:26 AM
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Two different friends of mine were heavily into car stereo competition. Both of them pushed me toward Lowe's to buy their rolled roofing sealer. One of the guys owned a car stereo shop, sold Dynamat, and held the competitions himself. He said that the tens-of-dollars roofing sealer was just as good as the hundreds-of-dollars Dynamat.

His installation recommendation? Stick it on whatever you can reach.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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I used fatmat on mine. I had the doors gutted anyway, so I put a layer on the inside of the door skin and again on the inside panel. Added some weight to the door, but also made the door seem more solid. I double layered the fatmat on the floors and firewall. Single layer on everything else. Made the stereo sound like I had added a high powered amp.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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I used brown bread on mine. I like it better than dynamat as it forms better to irregular surfaces without heating, and it sticks much better. The BB costs about half of dynamat, too.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 11:12 AM
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My doors are gutted as well but the access stinks. Did you use small strips or manage to get a big panel in there somehow?

When you say door skin, you're referring to the fiberglass outer panel right?

The inner door skin would be where the plastic shield should go between the door and the trim panel?

Just want to be sure as it looks like this asphalt stuff might be a bear to remove if you screw up...

Thanks
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by SLVRSHRK
My doors are gutted as well but the access stinks. Did you use small strips or manage to get a big panel in there somehow?

When you say door skin, you're referring to the fiberglass outer panel right?

The inner door skin would be where the plastic shield should go between the door and the trim panel?

Just want to be sure as it looks like this asphalt stuff might be a bear to remove if you screw up...

Thanks
Just had a thought, did you slide the panel in from the window opening? That would seem to be the best way to get a panel into the door.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by tpiini
Two different friends of mine were heavily into car stereo competition. Both of them pushed me toward Lowe's to buy their rolled roofing sealer. One of the guys owned a car stereo shop, sold Dynamat, and held the competitions himself. He said that the tens-of-dollars roofing sealer was just as good as the hundreds-of-dollars Dynamat.

His installation recommendation? Stick it on whatever you can reach.
ARe you talking about the roof tar type stuff or does it come in a roll foil type like Dynamat? Remy
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Thumper76
I used fatmat on mine. I had the doors gutted anyway, so I put a layer on the inside of the door skin and again on the inside panel. Added some weight to the door, but also made the door seem more solid. I double layered the fatmat on the floors and firewall. Single layer on everything else. Made the stereo sound like I had added a high powered amp.
what was your experience with fatmat..I've ordered 100 s.f. of the stuff from them over a week ago, and cant get them to return my calls or e-mails...the voice mail claims shes away from her desk.. I cant help thinking she;s at her day job....

I am not pleased with the customer service form these people..since they are totally impossible to contact.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:40 PM
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I installed QPAD (like Dynamat I guess) in my doors. I put 3 squares on the outside panel (12"x12") and then added pieces of two more square all over the metal internal side wherever it would fit. Door sound nice and solid when you close it. Having the window out makes it a lot easier but you can get most pieces throught the access panel at the bottom.

The QPAD stuff costs $20 for 6 squares at Carquest.


Pete
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 05:34 PM
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How much did you guys use total? I'm looking at getting 60 sq ft.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by BORDERBUM72
ARe you talking about the roof tar type stuff or does it come in a roll foil type like Dynamat? Remy
Yeah, I just ran down to check the roll I have left over. It's labeled, "Self Stick, Aluminum Faced, Peel & Seal" It's 6" wide and 25' long and sells for around ten bucks at Lowe's. You'll find it in the roofing section, as it's sold to seal flashings, gutters, etc.

Tom
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 05:39 PM
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Only 6 inches wide?!

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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by majic1984
Only 6 inches wide?!

Yep, but there's no law preventing you from laying it sidy-by-side to get as wide as you want!

<smartass mode now off>

Tom
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:46 PM
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Hehe, true. You know what Tom, you are 100% correct about this. I just spent a few hours researching this stuff. All this stuff is composed of is about a 40 mil sheet of rubberized asphalt, an adhesive backing, and an aluminum top to absorb a bit of heat. If anyone finds a place where we can get some of this stuff that is 40 - 60 mil (the higher the mil the better - 60 mil is 1/8 of an inch), adhesive backed, with aluminum top, we will all be golden!!!

- Michael

Last edited by majic1984; Jan 27, 2005 at 07:00 PM.
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