Hi guys,
My car was just painted black. It is a decent job I guess, but it was done by a guy just starting out... Okay, so... I am wet sanding with 1000-1500 grit to get out some orange peel and I hit a little primer...

Can this sprayed over and still match? I know the color will match but will you be able to see the newly painted area? It is a very small spot but you can easily see where I went through. I am trying to work out the issues with my painter and he states this is an easy fix b/c it is not clear coated. Can anyone give me some advice? THANKS GUYS!!!

 

Black should be an easy match especially with the paint being fresh. The problem is if you wet sanded through in one area, what do think will happen when you hit it with a wheel? You could end up with a zebra. Sounds like the kid didn't put enough paint on.

 

doesn;t sound like he a did a very decent job if YOU have to still sand, and base coat isn't thick enough. Is it laquer? Why not clear coat?

 

should be able to burn it in with no problem, however; if the kid is just starting out, i doubt he has experience in this area, so i tried a professional.

 

Zebra huh... that's what is doing in some places. I am trying to work with him to fix issues. It is Dupont urethane black. Will painting over the existing work leave more "zebra" marks? How 'bout if the car is hit with 800 grit and then paint is feathered in?

This must be possible, how else do body shops blend in after a repair? I would agree... I think black should be real easy???????


Has anyone do this before?

 

I would stop work yourself and take the car back and let the painter resolve the issues... Or refund the money and let you go elsewhere to fix it right...

 

I hear your comments... and thanks for the suggestions...

However, I would still like to hear from the folks that actually fixed issues like I am having. I appreciate the advice of give it back to be fixed or get the money.... yep. But I know there are some good paint guys on here that can help.

 

well since its single stage paint, and theres no clear coat, get some 600 grit paper, and scuff around the area its hit. mask off the rest of the car and about a few inches from the sanded area, but make sure you mask with a rolled edge, and not a tape edge, otherwise it will leave a line. Start spraying the black overlaping with the original black, wait to dry, and wet sand some 1200, buff and polish, and it should blend in.

 

Question for you....what year is your car? I'm presume it's a 70? Also, was the car repainted in laquer or a polyurethane? This will have a direct impact on how you repair it. Contrary to popular belief...black is NOT always an easy fixxer. If the paint is a lacquer, it will help you in the repair process. Let me know what you're working with. Any pics??

 

Well this may be a rather lengthy answer but... hopefully it will penetrate a few heads. First thing take it back to the painter have HIM do the wetsanding. Find out how much acryllic enamel he put on your car. It sounds like you painted on a budget and he may have shot a gallon or less on the car. Insist he wetsand and re-shoot the entire car because if you just started sanding and it's thinning already, chances are the paint is equally thin over the entire car. As far as coverage after the initial wetsanding, if he shoots enough paint on the car coverage will NOT be a problem. Next you make the painter do the the wetsanding and rubbing. If your car is shot in a booth with a baking system you should be able to rub and buff the car the next day. If he's shooting it in his garage, your paint will take about a month [ in warm weather ] to cure. Then the rubbing and buffing can proceed.
Now if he refuses or needs more money, don't even argue with him. Take your car to a reputible shop. Have them put base coat and clear coat on the car and sue the rookie. Chances are you're gonna have to eat this anyways but at least get it done right. I posted an answer to an earlier thread about paint and materials to the fella with the Greenwood Green 67 coupe. You may want to read through that answer too. Now unfortunately you have provided a hard lesson to other Corvette owners trying to cut corners.

 

I guess I don't feel bad paying ~$8,000 for the finishing and paint on my '69.

 

The deal might have been that the car was only to be sprayed, the owner to sand. Sanding is a labor intensive process, so many people take that on themselves, rather than pay the shop rate.
but many people like to save money by doing stuff themselves. I fell into the one-gallon trap myself the first time I had a car painted. Now I know better. Joe

 

[QUOTE=joe73vette]The deal might have been that the car was only to be sprayed, the owner to sand. Sanding is a labor intensive process, so many people take that on themselves, rather than pay the shop rate.


Well the DEAL shouldn't have been that. Any reputible painter will first of all insist he wetsand and rub his own work. Besides wetsanding and rubbing should always be included in the price. I always do. I certainly don't want an amateur giving it a try. Not on my hard work. Maybe you're familiar with the saying " it'll cost x amount to watch, if you want to help it'll cost double."

 

if i was going to repair this i would paint the whole panel i would not do a spot job or a burn in !! on a black car it will show up later even if it looks good when finished. you have another option if the job was done in urathen you could clear coat the whole car so this doesnt happen again you will have a paint job that will last alot longer than single stage & harder to burn thru but it is still possible so be careful i would not let anyone else sand & buff a car i painted some things are better left to the pros !!! the sun is hard on cars here in tx my shop only uses bc/cc i wont shoot a car in single stage !!

 

I gave the guy $4000 for the job. He sprayed Dupont Urethane Black. It is a friend of a friend and unfortunately... I was too trustworthy. I know someone of you will flame about the money and I guess I am a stupid asp for posting the cost... but more of a stupid asp that I actually thought this guy knew how to paint. He is just starting a full time paint business as he has done side painting for sometime. And yes... I did see his work prior....

Legal stuff aside.... Your advice is great. Don't think I don't want to rip his teeth out with vise grips then fractual his skull.... My wife is better tempered than me.... I originally had a reputable shop look at it and I was quoted $8600 by www.countycorvette.com. Instead, I wanted to help a guy out and give him some business. All this aside... I have OVER $26K into my frame off and the GOD DAMN paint looks like schit. Some panels are so so.. and some are okay. I asked him to come over to look at his work. We have all been in these situations before... or close to it.... We all KNOW giving this legal world upon which we live... what we WANT to do.... I am doing what will keep me out of court ... or jail. After all... it is just paint and money! (my wife...)

Also, how much paint does it take to spray our beloved C3s?

 

Don't ASK him to come over and look at it. Take it back to him and quit being a nice guy. Get pissed at him like you did on here. He's gonna have to redo it anyways. I'd hover over him like a Vulture too. Check on my car every other day till it's done. CORRECTLY. Wet sanded and rubbed too.

 

You near PA? County corvette is top notch, but they do overcharge. Theuir hourly rates are at least $10 over most reputable shops, but they ARE top notch. Do you mind If I ask what the name of the "place" this guy is starting?

 

Hey 68, how is it going? Yeah... Jim and the guys at County are great. They DO charge for the work... but you don't need to ever go back for same issue!

The guy that painted my car is employed with same company. I don't personnally know him... (I do now) but he was recommended by another coworker. He lives here is VA and I am his first paying customer...

I spoke with him today and he agreed to have my car picked up on flat bed and taken back to his shop. WE are going to knock the paint down and spray the WHOLE car again. I WILL be there every time he picks up the HVLP gun. It really stinks because my body is back on my fresh rebuild frame. I guess I will just tape everything like crazy so I don't get overspray everywhere!

He said he is going to 800 grit everything then shoot the car again with base and also primer if necessary. He understands my issues "and will work to make me happy.... no need to get lawyers involved!" Oh yeah... of course he is paying for all the supplies. SO..... do you guys think 800 grit will do the job? Should I ask for 600 grit??? And I thought rebuilding the frame was tough?????

 

800 is good. And good for you. Glad to hear it'll be resolved. Proptly.

 

At least he is willing to resolve the problem