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thks, i think i got it....so the the lift posts are not centered in the middle of the vehicle...that must also place some offset strain or pressure on the floor....i think i am going to consumate this deal tomorrow morning, or i fear i will always regret the lost opportunity....i'm not sure what this is rated but all the steel on it is at least 1/2" to 5/8 thick.....
It should have sort of plate to identify it. I think I wouldn't sweat the floor think. You can always add more bracing.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Budman78
It should have sort of plate to identify it. I think I wouldn't sweat the floor think. You can always add more bracing.
i'm with you, i don't think i have an issue with the floor.... i will go look at it all again in ernest tomorrow.....worst thing that can happen is that when i'm drilling the floor mounts i find that the floor is not thick enough, then i will have to get some real footings poured. i ll keep you posted...sounds like a new thread....the install of my 2 post lift...
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
[QUOTE=Fevre]Just what I was getting, if you decide to buy check you floor. Sounds like a sweet deal, I'm jealous. [/QUOTE
heres what i found out today...this lift is made by GRAND INC out of Fort Worth TX....all of the steel is 5/8 to 3/4 thick....the base plate has foot print or 4' x 12" and a center connector that has a 16" base plate and an 8' connector to the other side....i am drawing the outline on the floor trying to decide if it will take up too much space....this is a tough call....the versatility of an open floor space is very appealing....and the idea of getting uinder my car standing up is also very appealling ....time to sleep on it another night....
Most definitely sweat the floor! We very nearly lost a lift, truck (Ford F-350) and mechanic on a 2 post lift. Had it not been for the quick thinking of a co-worker, it wouldv'e been bad. The anchors started pulling right out of the floor. This is in a shop that is part of an aircraft hanger with very thick high pressure concrete. It must be installed correctly, in not a tragedy can easily happen. Please be careful.
this is the dilema to have......i've got a line on a two post commercial floor lift for $600. its a big one like you see in commercial shops with the swing out arms. It bolts to the floor and you drive your car through it. it has a 115/230 electric motor that drives a hydraulic pump.
.... i measured my vette jacked up high enough for me to work comfortably on it standing up and it measures 10' high... i have the height in the garage....i have the voltage, i have the space....what am i missing?????
...well now what should i do?
I just finished helping my neighbor set up his 2 post lift. we put in 18" concrete footings with imbedded bolts to hold the lift.
This may be a dumb question - but - you say you can jack the vette up to 10 feet and have room to work - thats great - but how high are each of the posts for the lift? The one we installed had much higher arms - with a safety cut out on top - the thing sits 14 feet in the air.
(I'm sure you took this into account!)
Carl "cut it twice - and it's still to short" Johansson
Most definitely sweat the floor! We very nearly lost a lift, truck (Ford F-350) and mechanic on a 2 post lift. Had it not been for the quick thinking of a co-worker, it wouldv'e been bad. The anchors started pulling right out of the floor. This is in a shop that is part of an aircraft hanger with very thick high pressure concrete. It must be installed correctly, in not a tragedy can easily happen. Please be careful.
I think the difference is 3000 pounds and probably a lift rated for 7000 pounds. He's just lifting the vette, not a work truck.
Most of these lifts have cross braces and very large feet, so 4" concrete should work fine. The only way to know is call the maker and ask.
The concrete thickness wasn't the issue with our incident, but rather the method of anchoring it. Our floor is around 10, maybe 12 inches thick. 17 inches in the hangar. We regularly lift 30 ton units, one weighs 110,000, lbs on this floor. The problem was that we installed it by drilling holes, not having poured-in anchors in the footings. Instead of going through all of that, we just put in a 4 post and use the 2 post only for lifting transporter carts (About 600 lbs).
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Carl Johansson
This may be a dumb question - but - you say you can jack the vette up to 10 feet and have room to work - thats great - but how high are each of the posts for the lift? The one we installed had much higher arms - with a safety cut out on top - the thing sits 14 feet in the air.
(I'm sure you took this into account!)
Carl "cut it twice - and it's still to short" Johansson
i gave a bad representation of what i meant..... the posts are 8' high...i meant to say i measured the height of my car on a two post jack at a height i can easily walk around underneath it....the top of the car was at 10' and i have that much heigth in the center of my garage.
the footprint of these posts is huge and it is a symetrical post....i will examine the thickness of my floor...i will also need to make sure the posts are level, my floor is sloped slightly to allow water run off....i also looked to see how much safety jack stands are for a car up on a lift....around here i can get a 2 ton safety stand for $65 .....
hey bob you might be able to saw cut the floor and dig out and a 24 in by 24 in by 2 -3 foot deep .Then make a template of the bolt pattern and put the bolts right into the concrete and pour it . For a slab or footing like this I would recommend a 4000 psi concrete with 3/8 stone and fiber mesh . If you go 3 feet deep and 2 X2 your would need a little over a yard of concrete . In new york we have a 2 yard minium for 300.oo bucks .The reason i said 3/8 stone is caause you get better strenghts with 3/8 over 3/4 less air voids .Good luck with the lift
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
well did a test hole and i have 4" of concrete in the middle of the garage.... i theorize that the concrete will be thicker by the side walls where the one side of the post will go , so i did not do a test hole there... still struggling on if this addition to the workshop will be an overall advantage or disadvantage....the garage is a good size two car garage with an additional 7' area off to the side for bikes and lawn mower ,etc... overall its like 24x34 ...the bikes fully occupy the 7' area, my wood working tools, sand blaster,air compressor , benches etc.. occupy one of the two bays .....and that leaves one full bay for the lift..... time to sleep on it again....
well did a test hole and i have 4" of concrete in the middle of the garage.... i theorize that the concrete will be thicker by the side walls where the one side of the post will go , so i did not do a test hole there... still struggling on if this addition to the workshop will be an overall advantage or disadvantage....the garage is a good size two car garage with an additional 7' area off to the side for bikes and lawn mower ,etc... overall its like 24x34 ...the bikes fully occupy the 7' area, my wood working tools, sand blaster,air compressor , benches etc.. occupy one of the two bays .....and that leaves one full bay for the lift..... time to sleep on it again....
I just got one this weekend for $1000. I thought I got a great deal!!! $600 you'd be crazy not to get it. Installation will be some work it looks like.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Gage
I just got one this weekend for $1000. I thought I got a great deal!!! $600 you'd be crazy not to get it. Installation will be some work it looks like.
i hear you on the installation aspect... any body have any general "rules of thumb re installation" about the clearances on the side of the posts as well as front and back.....since my garage is also used for storing the vette in it i need to be able to open the doors all the way to get in and out so i am thinking of installing the lift slightly off center and moving it 1 foot closer to the back wall...so are there any rules of thumb re the distance i should have infront of the Lift? thks bob
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i love the internet and i'm one step closer to owning it....
i found "Auto Lift parts warehouse, Hamden CT " on the internet. i spoke with a very friendly and knowledgeable sales guy and they are familar with the lift and decoded the s/n for me its a 6000# rated lift and ALL the parts for it are still commercially available..... they are going to send me the parts list and instruction manual for it....and i am going to buy the shim kit from them.....this alleviates alot of my concerns...