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Got a lot of things done today so far... Attached the cooling hoses to the tranny, built a sheet aluminum cover for my firewall (where the heater used to be), installed and wired the trans temperature gauge etc...
Please consider
THE PICS SHOW WORK IN PROGRESS AND NOT THE FINISHED PRODUCT
Here are some of the latest pics..
For today, I'm still planning on covering the hole in the tunnell with sheet aluminum and re-installing the carpet in the entire car.. Will also need to make sheet aluminum covers for the cutouts where the rollbar mounts.
If there's enough time, I'll also install the starter...
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Jan 30, 2005 at 06:50 PM.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Cool blue electric water pump Oliver. Something new this time around to free up a little hp I suppose. Got one question though, did you move the battery to the engine compartment.
Cool blue electric water pump Oliver. Something new this time around to free up a little hp I suppose. Got one question though, did you move the battery to the engine compartment.
The battery already was in the engine compartment when I bought the car 4 years ago.. I would've never moved it..
From: Where are the Smoky Mountain Cruisers? Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Engine looks sweeet. Do the spark-plugs look like they are going to fit without hitting the headers? How much clearance do you have between the tubes and the bottom of the frame?
Engine looks sweeet. Do the spark-plugs look like they are going to fit without hitting the headers? How much clearance do you have between the tubes and the bottom of the frame?
There shouldn't be a problem.. I've used Dart Iron Eagle heads before and they are basically the same in Iron as the Dart Pro 1's are in aluminum.. so there won't be an issue.. They are straight plug heads..
If the first pic is an electric fuel pump. Consider fairing the hard fuel line and using an AN connector. The braided hose never seems to clamp on as well as regular hose. And it will look a lot cleaner, well worth the $10 for connectors.
Very nice work BTW.
Gary
Are those the tranny cooler lines running over the frame? Might run them under the control arm on the frame rail. The rubber snubber will stop them from being squashed.Looking pretty good. Is the battery box still in the car behind the seats?I would get the battery back there as soon as you can.Ground it to the frame ,run a positive cable to the starter off the battery and run all your main wires off of the same post on the starter .
If the first pic is an electric fuel pump. Consider fairing the hard fuel line and using an AN connector. The braided hose never seems to clamp on as well as regular hose. And it will look a lot cleaner, well worth the $10 for connectors.
Very nice work BTW.
Gary
I might still do that down the way... The setup should work ok for now...
Are those the tranny cooler lines running over the frame? Might run them under the control arm on the frame rail. The rubber snubber will stop them from being squashed.Looking pretty good. Is the battery box still in the car behind the seats?I would get the battery back there as soon as you can.Ground it to the frame ,run a positive cable to the starter off the battery and run all your main wires off of the same post on the starter .
The tranny cooler lines aren't attached yet to the cooler.. I'll still route them correctly.. I won't install the radiator and tranny cooler yet because it would block access to the upper control arms which I'll have re-built by Van Steel.. They'll also install new springs and front drag shocks for me... I'll PM them to see if I could bring in the car to get the front suspension done so that I can install radiator and tranny cooler...