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Well, I know that you will need a 3.750'' Stroke Crank.
my motor already done-i just never had it on a dyno. its a 383 now from a l-48-valves were opened to the 2.02and a 488 lift cam and 10.5 to 1 comp. just dont know the ponys its puttin out yeat!
yes(does that make a h.p. diference?) but thats really all i know about my motor orig owner built racing engines and was suposed to wright down engine specs when i bought it. i forgot to get them that day and when i called him he was a jerk and i never got the info,,why do you know a good guess?
I don't think forged has anything to do with hp, I was just wondering.
I saw a caalculator somewhere where you put compression ratio, and displacement and it gives you a guess.
Big fish 2 bolt blocks converted to splayed caps are stronger,but depending on hes looking to get out of the motor for power then 2 bolt blocks are fine.Ive built plenty of 2 bolt motors to run at 6800 with cast crank and cast rods for years.And one other thing if you got a good standard 350 block,why bore it just do the std.stroker kit and get 377ci out of it.Just use a good set of main studs.
While stroking it will give you much more torque and horsepower, you wont see 400 horsepower with stock 76 heads. Anyway, if you are doing a 5.7" rod 383, you need a 3.75" stroke crank that is set up for external balancing, 400 balancer, and 400 flexplate as well as different pistons. If you go with a 6" rod, you need a 3.75" stroke crank tha tis set up for internal balancing, 350 balancer and flexplate, as well as a set of of 6" rods and pistons. Supposedly the 6" rod motor will make a little more horsepower, although this is probably very little.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by My75
While stroking it will give you much more torque and horsepower, you wont see 400 horsepower with stock 76 heads.
Yea that turned out to be the limiting factor on my engine. I used an Eagle Stroker kit, 6 inch rods, and 10:1 pistons in mine. The cam is healthy, and the heads were cleaned up, polished, and fitted with Stainless valves and a 3-angle valve job.
What I didnt' count on, was how limiting the heads were.
Turned out to be about 260HP at the wheels, so I'm figuring 335HP at the crank. It runs Gooooooood, but I know that I would have fared better if I'd spent that money on Aluminum Name Brand heads instead of modifying the OEM chevy heads.
I was shooting for 300HP at the wheels MINIMUM and missed my mark. I did use a 4-bolt main block though, and I know that if/when I desire to change the heads I'll have a screamer.
While stroking it will give you much more torque and horsepower, you wont see 400 horsepower with stock 76 heads. Anyway, if you are doing a 5.7" rod 383, you need a 3.75" stroke crank that is set up for external balancing, 400 balancer, and 400 flexplate as well as different pistons. If you go with a 6" rod, you need a 3.75" stroke crank tha tis set up for internal balancing, 350 balancer and flexplate, as well as a set of of 6" rods and pistons. Supposedly the 6" rod motor will make a little more horsepower, although this is probably very little.
I have a 5.7 rod 3.75 stroke forged crank that is internal balance.
San Diago your very right. Remember horsepower is all about airflow. The more air gas mixture you can get in and out of the combustion chamber the more power you will have. Power is going to be limited to the most restrictive part of the Motor. For stock engines its usually the Exhaust first....then the heads...then the intake....remember adding cubes and cam will only create vacuum and back pressure if the entire system is not opened up. When making power....think about every factor that is limiting airflow...eliminate the bottlenecks and power will continue to come.