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Need tips for isolating engine knocking noise

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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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Default Need tips for isolating engine knocking noise

My 327/300 hp car has developed an engine knocking noise that I hear while idling. It is not a metallic tapping noise that you get from lifters, in fact I used to have that noise too and I pulled both heads, replaced all hydraulic lifters, had heads machined with new valves, guides, etc. Now that that noise is gone, I notice the oscillatory knocking noise. Sometimes it comes and goes, and is more noticeable the slower the idle speed and the more warmed up the engine is. Can anyone offer tips to isolate the noise?
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:35 AM
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A forum member from Orlando had a similar knocking noise issue with his '69 L36. Turned out to be his fuel pump push rod.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:50 AM
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I had such a noise in my 327/350 and it turned out to be a excessive spacing in the distributor at the lower gear that is inside the motor. I thought it was bearings or lifters and it was only at idle. The machine shop found it by gently leaning on the distributor while the car was running. I removed and rebuilt the distributor with specific attention to the gap at the bottom of the distributor shaft (gear and shims) and it solved the problem. Cheap fix and quick also. It eliminted the end play whihc caused the distributor shaft to move slightly up and down causing a knocking sound.
Hope yours is something simple like that.
Kurt
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 09:56 AM
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I had hoped that was my problem, as I also had excessive play in the dist shaft. Unfortunitly, I know I recently rebuilt the dist. and have the spec amount of play in the shaft.

I do have a stethoscope and have tried to use it for this noise, but honestly it seems I can hear it all over the place.

Is there a way to tell from the frequency of the knock whether it is from the upper rotating parts (cam, etc.) versus the rotating crankshaft? 500rpm idle is about 8.5 rotations per second. I know the knock does not occur 8 times a second, more like maybe 2 or 3 times a second or even slower.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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how much oil pressure?
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 11:28 AM
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Oil pressure runs about 45 or so at cruise warmed up, and around 20-30 at idle, depending on how warmed up the engine is.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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Could be an exhaust leak. Header gaskets are famous for it. Easy thing to check too before you dig into your engine.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 12:17 PM
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Mine was a rocker arm stud that had a groove cut into it by the rocker.It would knock each time the rocker came out of the groove.The machine shop found it when i took them the heads to rebuild.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bondtimbond
Is there a way to tell from the frequency of the knock whether it is from the upper rotating parts (cam, etc.) versus the rotating crankshaft? 500rpm idle is about 8.5 rotations per second. I know the knock does not occur 8 times a second, more like maybe 2 or 3 times a second or even slower.
Remember, the power stroke occurs every other revolution. Most engine (expensive) noises are generated during the increased pressure of combustion. Also, the cam, oil pump, & dist run at half speed. There a few good books out for troubleshooting engine noises, "How to rebuild SB Chevy" is one of them.

Last edited by 71coupe; Feb 3, 2005 at 01:06 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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Idle pressure is about 20 - 30psi, depending on how warmed up the engine is.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 01:34 PM
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Make sure your timing is correct, good luck.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 01:52 PM
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Try disconnecting one spark plug at a time.
Note:
If you do this while it is running make sure you wear really thick gloves!!!

If the knocking goes away with one spark plug disconnected you have narrowed the problem down to that particular cylinder.

I used this technique to find the knock in my old L-48 and found that the #1 cylinder was the problem. Since my oil pressure was good I assumed that it was a bad wrist pin causing the knock and continued to drive it for several years. Once I finally tore the engine down about a month ago I found that it was actually the rod bearing which was worn almost halfway through.


Hope your's turns out better than mine
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ksbunting
I had such a noise in my 327/350 and it turned out to be a excessive spacing in the distributor at the lower gear that is inside the motor. I thought it was bearings or lifters and it was only at idle. The machine shop found it by gently leaning on the distributor while the car was running. I removed and rebuilt the distributor with specific attention to the gap at the bottom of the distributor shaft (gear and shims) and it solved the problem. Cheap fix and quick also. It eliminted the end play whihc caused the distributor shaft to move slightly up and down causing a knocking sound.
Hope yours is something simple like that.
Kurt
Hmmmm
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 02:11 PM
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I had the same knock, turned out to be the fuel pump pushrod in my case too.
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 02:14 PM
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What did you have to do to fix the fuel pump pushrod problem?
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Old Feb 3, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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Take out the fuel pushrod (by first removing the fuel pump) and check it for straightness and for any burnish marks at all. If in doubt put in a new one, they're cheap! I had this issue with another car, turned out to be a bad fuel pump itself - was a new one and still bad!
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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Update on this thread: I tried several of the techniques mentioned, including retarding the timing and pulling plugs one at a time. None of that made a significant difference. Also, more detailed listening with a stethoscope did not show that the fuel pump is making noise. I replaced my right side exhaust manifold and associated gaskets, and I think an exhaust leak was the majority of the noise I was hearing. The gasket in between the heat riser and manifold was blown out on one side. Things are much quieter now! Thanks for the advice!
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