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You might just as well bend the metal tabs on the bottom of the crossmember bushings, then try the prybar. The bushing will remain on the frame stubs, but the crossmember will come off. A last resort that may save some swearing. I fought with it for hours, but the bending of the tabs only took 5 minutes or so.
I wasn't getting anywhere with the prybar, so I used a 6 or 8" three jaw puller. Popped it right off in a safe, controlled manner with relatively little effort. Remember to buy a new, longer bolt for the purpose of the puller to push against so you don't damage the original one.
Olivier,
Make sure the bolts are in, but don't thread them tight. There should be enough thread on them to leave at least 1/2" gap maybe more. That way when it comes loose, the bolts will keep it from crashing to the floor and you won't have to worry about balancing it on the jack until you are ready for it.
Learned that from the Van Steel suspension video They make it look so easy
Olivier,
Make sure the bolts are in, but don't thread them tight. There should be enough thread on them to leave at least 1/2" gap maybe more. That way when it comes loose, the bolts will keep it from crashing to the floor and you won't have to worry about balancing it on the jack until you are ready for it.
Learned that from the Van Steel suspension video They make it look so easy
I'm gonna remove the differential without the crossmember by cutting the fiberglass and remove them from the top.. My car is already cut up a lot.. so one more hole won't matter