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Differential removal question...

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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 12:40 AM
  #1  
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Default Differential removal question...

I tried to remove the differential on my '68 to have somebody remove the pinion yoke so that I can install another pinion yoke so that I can hook up the temporary driveshaft..

I removed the spring, disconnected the strut rods and half shafts, removed the nut that holds the front of the differential against the bracket off the rear crossmember. Then I put a jack under the differential and removed the 2 bolts that hold that differential crossmember against the frame.. Now I tried to lower the differential down by lowering down the jack...

I was very surprised when the differential wouldn't come down...
Did I forget about something??

Why isn't it coming down??
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 12:48 AM
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You need to give the crossmember a tap with a hammer where it connects to the frame, its a wedged/press fit..
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 12:52 AM
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It sounds like you got it all... I had the same problem. The metal stubs on the frame and the rubber bushings on the crossmember are stuck together.

The first time I removed it, I left it for a day, then came back and it fell on its own. I thought I would be smart and put anti-seize on the metal stubs. Anti seize was not a good idea, next time I will use poly grease.

The second time I removed it, tried prying with a 3' bar, air chisel, heat... I ended up bending the tabs on the rubber crossmember bushing and then lowering the whole assembly.

Click on the link for a picture.


Last edited by rexx78; Feb 7, 2005 at 12:53 AM. Reason: pic didn't work, will explain link
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by rexx78
It sounds like you got it all... I had the same problem. The metal stubs on the frame and the rubber bushings on the crossmember are stuck together.

The first time I removed it, I left it for a day, then came back and it fell on its own. I thought I would be smart and put anti-seize on the metal stubs. Anti seize was not a good idea, next time I will use poly grease.

The second time I removed it, tried prying with a 3' bar, air chisel, heat... I ended up bending the tabs on the rubber crossmember bushing and then lowering the whole assembly.

Click on the link for a picture.

Thanks!! I'll try the prybar!!!
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 01:27 AM
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Tried the prybar with little success.. It's still stuck..
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by RAT502
You need to give the crossmember a tap with a hammer where it connects to the frame, its a wedged/press fit..
I tried that with no success.. Well - my hammer is probably too small..
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 01:43 AM
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oh, did i say TAP? I meant a good F'N SMACK!!!
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RAT502
oh, did i say TAP? I meant a good F'N SMACK!!!
Just looked in the archives.. A 2 jaw puller seems to be the easiest way to remove it... Will get one tomorrow!!
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 06:27 AM
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Do not use a puller as that cushion is really jammed onto the sombero and you will just deform it or strip the nut. Spray PB blaster or the like up into the bolt hole but so that it goes inbetween the cushion and the sombero. Let it sit for a day or so then hit it on either side of the crossmember near the cushion. Next when that doesn't release it insert a 2" long bolt thru both holes (so that the whole assy doesn't just fall on the floor when it comes loose) Get a 5 ft or so crow bar ( I got one a Lowe's for 20 bucks) and pry down between the cushion and the frame... It will take a LOT of force to get this apart. Dave..
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 07:14 AM
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The first time out takes a LOT of force to break the bond. A large bar 5 feet or bigger is needed. When it goes you will know it.
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 08:26 AM
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I don't think that mine will be stuck that bad because the differential was out of the car about a year ago...so it's mot the same as removing it after 30 years...
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 08:52 AM
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Make your life easier...cut a small hole in the floor (above the diff) and unbolt to top of the cover...leave the crossmember in....Besides, for what your doing with that car the crossmember should be welded in!!
...redvetracr
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 09:07 AM
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Replace the two bolts but only about 1/2 way so the rearend doesn't fall on the floor then take 2 large chissels, one in front and one behind the crossmember on one side and use them like a pickle fork working back and forth witht he hammer driving them in between the frame and the crossmember. It works slick, doesn't damage anything and no chance of slipping.
The crossmember will drop onto the bolt and then do the other side.
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 09:10 AM
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Being removed as of late will not matter I installed mine on January 20th and then had to remove it January 27th due to a yoke issue. I was not even seated all the way b/c I never had the car's weight on it and it was harder to remove than the first time.. That is a TIGHT fit.. As usually Norval comes up with a better way. I tried wedges but I think the next time I will use chisels as wedges... Dave...
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 09:31 AM
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Redvetracr, I like the idea of cutting the floorboard!.. I already got plenty of holes in it

I can use sheet aluminum to cover the hole!
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 09:33 AM
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Two good tips! Once for racers and one for drivers. Thanks fellas!
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I don't think that mine will be stuck that bad because the differential was out of the car about a year ago...so it's mot the same as removing it after 30 years...

What's mot?
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 10:16 AM
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mot = not
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
Tried the prybar with little success.. It's still stuck..
I am not sure what size prybar you are using. I first tried with a large screwdriver and was unsuccessful. I then bought a 3' or maybe even slightly longer crowbar. With that much leverage it popped out very easily and mine was in there for 28 years.
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Old Feb 7, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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It took my 280lb dad on the end of a 5ft bar and me on a 3ft bar to get mine out. It had possibly been out recently since the differential fluid was changed and both spring ears were busted and rewelded onto the cover
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