Painting question (engine bay)
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Painting question (engine bay)
Okay it's been damn near a week prepping the firewall for paint and the more I do the more needs to come off the car. i have everything out of the engine bay save the motor itself.
Question. 1 In tight spots say the firewall where it meets the blower motor I have to use a dremel w/ a circular sanding disc as a sanding block won't work. When I use the dremel the disc sometimes cuts deeper than I wanted requiring me to stop and remix the resin and reaplly more fiberglass to build up the "gouge" I created. Isthere a sanding tool for tight spots?
Question 2. I have been sanding and there is white dust in every nook and cranny everywhere. i don't own a compressor but even if I did it would blow the dust from one spot to another. I only have one idea which is to spray the entire engine bay with water. I can protect the carb opening and altenator from water but how the hell am I to get all the water droplets that will stick in blind spots around for days and the paint won't stick. plus I don't want to promote rust on the engine which is ready for show. All the parts I removed that were sandblasted and are sitting in parts bins next to the car are now coated in a light white coat of sand.
Question. 1 In tight spots say the firewall where it meets the blower motor I have to use a dremel w/ a circular sanding disc as a sanding block won't work. When I use the dremel the disc sometimes cuts deeper than I wanted requiring me to stop and remix the resin and reaplly more fiberglass to build up the "gouge" I created. Isthere a sanding tool for tight spots?
Question 2. I have been sanding and there is white dust in every nook and cranny everywhere. i don't own a compressor but even if I did it would blow the dust from one spot to another. I only have one idea which is to spray the entire engine bay with water. I can protect the carb opening and altenator from water but how the hell am I to get all the water droplets that will stick in blind spots around for days and the paint won't stick. plus I don't want to promote rust on the engine which is ready for show. All the parts I removed that were sandblasted and are sitting in parts bins next to the car are now coated in a light white coat of sand.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Cali,68,L-79
Okay it's been damn near a week prepping the firewall for paint and the more I do the more needs to come off the car. i have everything out of the engine bay save the motor itself.
Question. 1 In tight spots say the firewall where it meets the blower motor I have to use a dremel w/ a circular sanding disc as a sanding block won't work. When I use the dremel the disc sometimes cuts deeper than I wanted requiring me to stop and remix the resin and reaplly more fiberglass to build up the "gouge" I created. Isthere a sanding tool for tight spots?
Question 2. I have been sanding and there is white dust in every nook and cranny everywhere. i don't own a compressor but even if I did it would blow the dust from one spot to another. I only have one idea which is to spray the entire engine bay with water. I can protect the carb opening and altenator from water but how the hell am I to get all the water droplets that will stick in blind spots around for days and the paint won't stick. plus I don't want to promote rust on the engine which is ready for show. All the parts I removed that were sandblasted and are sitting in parts bins next to the car are now coated in a light white coat of sand.
Question. 1 In tight spots say the firewall where it meets the blower motor I have to use a dremel w/ a circular sanding disc as a sanding block won't work. When I use the dremel the disc sometimes cuts deeper than I wanted requiring me to stop and remix the resin and reaplly more fiberglass to build up the "gouge" I created. Isthere a sanding tool for tight spots?
Question 2. I have been sanding and there is white dust in every nook and cranny everywhere. i don't own a compressor but even if I did it would blow the dust from one spot to another. I only have one idea which is to spray the entire engine bay with water. I can protect the carb opening and altenator from water but how the hell am I to get all the water droplets that will stick in blind spots around for days and the paint won't stick. plus I don't want to promote rust on the engine which is ready for show. All the parts I removed that were sandblasted and are sitting in parts bins next to the car are now coated in a light white coat of sand.
do you have a shop vac? that you can try and vacuum up the water droplets? how about a hair dryer?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
P.S. Everything else is ready for paint. I have about a mile of bubble wrap sitting in the garage to cover the motor but even that will be difficult when trying to cover the accesories such as the power steering pump etc. becuase I want to spray the frame 2" right below it.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Cali,68,L-79
P.S. Everything else is ready for paint. I have about a mile of bubble wrap sitting in the garage to cover the motor but even that will be difficult when trying to cover the accesories such as the power steering pump etc. becuase I want to spray the frame 2" right below it.
you know what would work great is that new clear kitchen plastic wrap that sticks to itself....
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
do you have a shop vac? that you can try and vacuum up the water droplets? how about a hair dryer?
How about a high speed fan? I can rent one of the Navy's mini blowers which shoots a **** load of hot air, it's about the size of a microwave
and I could set it on the nose pointing into the engine bay and leave it on overnight.
I need a damn compressor!! that would definetly work if I could blow the water out.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Cali,68,L-79
How about a high speed fan? I can rent one of the Navy's mini blowers which shoots a **** load of hot air, it's about the size of a microwave
and I could set it on the nose pointing into the engine bay and leave it on overnight.
I need a damn compressor!! that would definetly work if I could blow the water out.
and I could set it on the nose pointing into the engine bay and leave it on overnight.
I need a damn compressor!! that would definetly work if I could blow the water out.
that sounds like over kill........ but it would certainly work.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,930
Likes: 11
From: AnyTown NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Take it outside and use a leaf blower on it. I also bought attachments for my portable vac that allow me to get into every nook and cranny. I would not use water as it will turn the dust into a paste.
When painting Bob's suggestion of using plastic wrap is a good one (Saran Wrap). I've used painters blue masking tape and it worked very well. It comes off very easily and doesn't pull off any finish it was taped to.
When painting Bob's suggestion of using plastic wrap is a good one (Saran Wrap). I've used painters blue masking tape and it worked very well. It comes off very easily and doesn't pull off any finish it was taped to.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by gq82
Take it outside and use a leaf blower on it. I also bought attachments for my portable vac that allow me to get into every nook and cranny. I would not use water as it will turn the dust into a paste.
When painting Bob's suggestion of using plastic wrap is a good one (Saran Wrap). I've used painters blue masking tape and it worked very well. It comes off very easily and doesn't pull off any finish it was taped to.
When painting Bob's suggestion of using plastic wrap is a good one (Saran Wrap). I've used painters blue masking tape and it worked very well. It comes off very easily and doesn't pull off any finish it was taped to.
David
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 856
Likes: 2
From: Tyler Texas
I primarily used the blue masking type tape--specifically designed for painting--it pulls off very easy without leaving any adhesive residue. Availabe at Lowes, Walmart, Home Depot or any painting store.
I used a combination of items to cover/mask off areas. I used towels, brown heavy duty construction type paper, clear plastic, blue tape,etc.
I did not use, but have seen aluminum foil used very effectively to mask off and wrap some areas. It is easy to remove and conforms in shape to the surface applied to (hoses, metal fuel/brake lines,etc).
Prior to painting, I cleaned, washed, sanded, wire brushed, etc, the entire engine compartment and parts (SOS pads work great on metal parts!); then washed off with water hose; left car in the sun with hood up (in summer time). Engine bay was completely dry in one hour. Then the masking started. I spent a total of 40 hours from start to finish detailing the engine compartment.
I used a combination of items to cover/mask off areas. I used towels, brown heavy duty construction type paper, clear plastic, blue tape,etc.
I did not use, but have seen aluminum foil used very effectively to mask off and wrap some areas. It is easy to remove and conforms in shape to the surface applied to (hoses, metal fuel/brake lines,etc).
Prior to painting, I cleaned, washed, sanded, wire brushed, etc, the entire engine compartment and parts (SOS pads work great on metal parts!); then washed off with water hose; left car in the sun with hood up (in summer time). Engine bay was completely dry in one hour. Then the masking started. I spent a total of 40 hours from start to finish detailing the engine compartment.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,706
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
How about using brake cleaner? I use cans of this stuff every weekend to remove oil and grime, but have also used it as spot prep for painting. Removes everything nicely and leaves no residue of its own. I haven't melted anything under the hood with it yet, though you might want to try a spot before hosing it all around. Cheep as well (look for Kragen specials).
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Patrick73
I primarily used the blue masking type tape--specifically designed for painting--it pulls off very easy without leaving any adhesive residue. Availabe at Lowes, Walmart, Home Depot or any painting store.
I used a combination of items to cover/mask off areas. I used towels, brown heavy duty construction type paper, clear plastic, blue tape,etc....
I used a combination of items to cover/mask off areas. I used towels, brown heavy duty construction type paper, clear plastic, blue tape,etc....
Ditto here!
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,930
Likes: 11
From: AnyTown NJ
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by Cali,68,L-79
Excellent idea. BTW I got all new hoses yesterday as you had pointed out.
David
David
It should great once your done.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,131
Likes: 4
From: May help you? You can sure as hell try!
Originally Posted by Cali,68,L-79
Isthere a sanding tool for tight spots?
2. Use some canned air from a camera shop. Sewing shops also use this stuff to clean sewing machine mechanisms. My wife uses it. That's how I got the idea.
A small compressor can be an indespensible tool. Air tools beat the crap out of electric tools with regards to power, size and weight.