I want to build an engine with an aluminum block to lose some weight and because they're cool. If any of you guys know of a good source for price and quality, I'd appreciate it. I've done some searches but didn't really have much luck.

small block chevy 383 stroker is the plan

 

www.paceparts.com
www.sallee-chevrolet.com

Also Scoggins-Dickey...

 

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...88&prmenbr=361

 

New from the General.
10185075
10134400
24502495
are the part numbers

 

I knew I could count on you guys.

Thanks!

Jim

 

How about a stroker LS1?

 

Do you have one for sale?

I want to be able to retain all the original accessory locations. I have a Holly EFI & ignition setup now that I also wanted to keep.

 

If you are shelling out the cash for an aluminum block go BIGGER. Go with at least a 400 better yet a 421 or 427 SB. Even a 454 is doable. Not much extra $$$ but a butt load more power.

 

try World Products . . . they've got a aluminum BB.

 

good advise ... I like the sound of that 427. I wasn't sure what was avail. since I had no sources until now. I really wanted to stay small block to avoid header & accessory changes. Is there anything you guys know of that I should watch out for or avoid?

 

Donovan Engineering is a good source. A leader on Aluminum blocks in the racing industry. They are on the net. Expensive though. I have one of their first 417 Hemis at serial # 044 made to 471 CI with a 5/8`s arm. Nearly blowproof with frequent changing of the aluminum rods.

 

I've heard of Donovan, well respected. I read that aluminum rods were for racing but not practical for street. Since I have a street car I planned on steel crank and upgraded rods but I haven't gotten far enough on the build to have selected any rods or pistons yet. I wanted to get the block and crank and start from there. I am reluctant to buy a used block just to save money. Honestly, I have a lot to learn about engine building. I wish I had the collective knowledge that you guys have. I've built about 5 engines so far, all small block Chevy's and all pretty much to stock configurations. All I did is bolt on horsepower adders without really engineering anything myself. I need to buy some books and read up on it. Any suggestions on good reference materials would also be welcome.

 

I have been looking for a 454 aluminum small block... World Castings only goes to 4.12 bore... the 454 SBC blocks are typically 4.250.

Who sells a 4.25 bore aluiminum SBC block?

 

Can't remember who made one. The biggest SB I have seen is a 488. Based on a tall deck block. Everything custom. $30,000 but made 1000 HP.

 

Oh... I'm not interested in tall deck blocks.

 

Try Brodix.

 

Some of these are just copied from above...
The list is not all inclusive by any means.

Some manufacturers:

http://www.brodix.com/2005catalog/37-38.html
http://www.donovanengineering.com/Bl...mallBlock.html
http://www.worldcastings.com/2004catalog.shtml

Some resellers:

http://ohiocrank.com/blocks.html
http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?P...TS&Category=41
http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommer...488&prmenbr=361
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...h.asp&N=400240
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
"This site is not owned or operated by General Motors Corporation"


Some GM#s to search ar above sites:
10185075
10134400
24502495

2004 GM Performance Parts Catalog (Sallee)
ALL THE LATEST PARTS
(note: GM sales this P/N as 2 catalogs, we sell it as 1 catalog. This reduces the cost to you and most people only want 1 catalog, not two.)
P/N: 88963762

My take on this is that I prefer to stay with the "standard" block dimensions so that I don't get locked out of using any of the "really cool stuff" available for the small block Chevy. Once you go outside the standard, your selection of parts becomes limited.

Some Things to consider:
Maximum possible bore (a 4.3OD bore does not mean you can still bore to 4.250)
Side Rail location/width (including dipstick location & manual shift linkage boss)
Block Height (affects cylinder head & intake availability and hood clearance)
Camshaft Bore Location (effects timing chain cover/set availability)
Raised exhaust ports on the heads affect header/manifold fitment

If I have to start spending bloated dollars just because the block is not standard issue, might as well go with a real BB instead.

I have this whole post in a text file in case it gets deleted... due to the "supporting vendor policy" so I can email it to you if need be.

I'm not sure if I am doing a no-no or not by posting this stuff.
I guess it may depend on whether we can buy a bare aluminum block from supporting vendors??
I'm clueless on that. So I apologize in advance if I'm a bad person.

 

What is the problem, for which a small block large displacement engine, is the solution? C4's,C5's must have small blocks because of fit problems. C3's can easily hold a Big Block. Why don't you just buy a aluminum Big Block?

Maybe you want to have a car that looks like it has a small block, without letting people know you have a lot of displacement. Small block engines with large displacements must have some bad connecting pin/rod/crank geometries and also internal balance problems. I don't know anything about these 427 SB engines so maybe I'll try to learn more.

Aluminum Big Blocks are readily available. The GM Performance Parts catalog has aluminum big blocks. I bought a Keith Black aluminum BB. Unfortunately, I've now been warned that I may have fit problems!! I'll be measuring it and comparing it with a cast iron Corvette BB block soon. (Hopefully it's OK!)

www.keithblack.com (They have a video option. If you have a modem don't click that.) Just go to the other selections such as Chevy BB's.

 

Thanks for taking the time to put that together Tom454. I saved it in case it disappears. I really appreciate it.

I wanted to reuse my aluminum Edlebrock heads, aluminum water pump, aluminum timing cover, Hooker stainless headers, FluidDamper balancer (maybe), B&M blower, MSD dist. etc. so that's primarilly why I wanted to stay with the small block. I assume I would have to change all my accessory brackets too.

Jim

 

Pick me! Pick me! I can answer that!

In my case, I can use either. My objective, however is to get the maximum displacement and least weight. An aluminum SB is lighter than an Aluminum BB. I have a SB Roadster, and BB T-Top. The BB has the *****-to-the-wall acceleration that we all love, but is also front end heavy... especially with A/C. Since I drive both, I can say that I really can feel the difference in handling between the lighter & the heavier cars... and they both have the same DESIGN frame/suspension etc. So it's primarily a weight difference. Think "Autocross"... 650hp... lightweight...

The really fast cars these days are all in the 2300 to 2500lb range. McClaren , Ferari.. (sp?) blah blah blah. 0 - 60 in 3.2 sounds nice. Maybe even 4.2. But with the weight, it's to hard to attain.

Shouldn't be hard to get 650 - 800hp out of a 454 aluminum SB with a supercharger and EFI... A heavier BB will always give you more, but that SB should be enough. I can go either way... my engine bay is empty right now.