When you are buying an aluminum block you have to be careful on the rear cap. A lot of blocks are not setup to be used as a wet sump motor. Of the GM blocks listed only the 10185075 is made to have an oil pump bolted on the cap. You also have to to know what crank journal size you have as aluminum blocks can be had with either 2.45 or 2.65 main journals.

Also do not assume that all aluminum blocks weigh the same. GM and Donavan blocks will weigh in around 140#. The Dart and Brodix Blocks will weigh in around 105#. In contrast a GM 10105123 iron block with a little grinding work can be gotten down to 165#. Most 010 iron blocks will weigh between 180# and 200#

Also keep in mind that the wall thickness of an aluminum block is thicker than an Iron block. This makes it more difficult to to fit a long stoke crank in a aluminum block than an iron block. At 4" or longer stoke I would recomend the spread pan rails and raised cam versions.

In my opinion the Dart or Brodix blocks are the best aluminum blocks on the market today.

It is smaller than you want but, if you would be interested I have a customer that has an all Aluminum 440 CI motor for sale. 4" stroke, 4.155 bore, Dart Block, Dart heads Aluminum pan. I would have to look back at some notes but I seem to recall the entire motor weighed in at around 375#. Can be had at a VERY good price. IM me if you want more information.

Pete

 

I am running a GM BowTie aluminum block in our 1969. It had originally been used by GM for testing and they built it as a 410. I bought the block bare and had a 383 built. This is all back about 10 years ago.

The block fit perfectly in the Vette. All the accessories bolted up. And, the block was even tapped for all of the shielding. It turned out exactly as I wanted - looking like the factory built the car that way.

My 2 cents.

George

 

Thx Pete. I had forgotten the iron blocks carry a lot of extra metal. Can't remember where i read the "how to remove" reference. Anyone know where to find this method written like an instruction? I'd like to find it to copy. Since iron blocks are less than 200lbs stock compared to 90lbs for Chevy alum block, ur nearly half way there just with a grinder. Really the cost effective way to lose front end weight.
Kind'a funny now but i recall from my teens when i thought blueprinting an engine was carving up the block casting to the exact design diminsions as drawn on prints. But hey back then none of my friends new better either. And y not, a little weight loss wouldn't of hurt the old lead sleds we drove.
cardo0

 

Here's the Scoggin Dickey page:

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/63/Crate-Engines.htm

Take plenty of time to plan and decide - that's half the fun!

 

Ouch

 

Thanks for this answer. It's great to read that you're talking about what you're driving.

I now think that what we're calling a "small block" is nothing like the small block and subsequent engines that had their origin in 1955. I guess that the 427 "small block" engines are really a completely new engine design. I suspect that they're not really not small blocks and really not big blocks (relating to the language of a few years ago.) I think that maybe they're really more like new design mid size engines.

Anyhow. Thanks again for your posting. It was very interesting to read.

 

That a 434 ci. Friday night I help a friend assemble his spare alki racing 540 KB aluminum.

Both the Motown and Darts, aluminum or iron have pan rails that will clear 4.125 stroker cranks. They do not use a Chevy oil pan.

I have the short deck Motown 427. The price is the same with overbores. If I was to do it over again I would only use the tall block.

 

got a few prices

GM 10185075 - $5050.28
GM 10134400 - $5036.32
GM 24502495 - $6063.81

From what Pete79L82 said, only the first one would be a wet sump. Sounds like I really need to become better educated before jumping in and buying something. Thanks again for all the input. Anyone have any suggestions on a book I could buy?

 

I sent you an IM Pete. Thanks