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The slot can't be verical, it'll have to be at an angle following the line through the u joint and pivots, otherwise you will create more stub movement when adjusting it.
A tig welder? For this you're better off w/ a mig, tig is really slow so if you want to build some big pieces you're welding for a long time and using lots of gas.
BTW...where is my prev. reply?? I replied to the longer strut idea, although it's nice for more camber gain it does make that you need an even shorter upper stud and a much wider upper bracket, creating flex and possibly even binding w/ the halfshaft, just place the Ic closer to the huib and angle the upper and lower rods some more and you will get more camber gain, simple as that.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Feb 17, 2005 at 02:34 AM.
Im pretty sure you would have to completely remove the batter box and storage compartments for that to work. Why not go to a dual Aarm design instead of the H?
Im pretty sure you would have to completely remove the batter box and storage compartments for that to work. Why not go to a dual Aarm design instead of the H?
Simpler. I don't think you'd have to remove the battery box. Obviously a wider H is better, but with enough webbing to keep it from flexing it should be fine. The boxes get wider as they go down.
Mark,
I am missing something here. I only see .52 degrees of change on compression, not 2 degrees. Also, the arms look parallel now. How about putting a vertical slot on the inner mounting point to make it adjustable or make the outer point vertically adjustable? and does the smart strut really move the inner point of the lower strut down 1.5"? I know my lower strut is horizontal but am not sure how much it moved to get there.
I know I am late to the party, but I am very excited about your work and since I just bought a TIG welder I am itching to get working on some cool new projects and have been looking at the rear end as long as everyone here.
BBShark, I think a longer lower strut is a good idea, but we need to clear the exhaust! Mine is tight to the bracket and it still occasionally scrapes.
The gain of 2 deg is the orgional corvette setup. My design will have about the same camber curve as a 1-1/2" dropped lower inner strut bracket.
I totally agree with what you are saying about the exhaust. I have the same issue, my exhaust is right below the current strut rod bracket and will have to be moved in order to lower the lower inner mounting points.
Last edited by FLEXUSMARK; Feb 17, 2005 at 08:29 AM.
As you know, in order to stop stub movement you will have to adjust both the upper and lower inner points at the same time. I agree that both would have to be adjusted on a line drawn thru the link points and the center of the u joint. Both links would have to move a proper amount that would have them intersect on a line thru the center of the drive shaft. I Think it would be alot of work to make an adjustable system and easier to just make new brackets with new locations.
Yes, that's why I previously mentioned using slugs with holes drilled in various places, then you can make matching pairs and easily adjust the whole setup without having to mess with precise adjustments. The slugs are an easy way of setting it up, I thought about doing the same to my upper arm mounts but I got the adjustable arms instead.
The gain of 2 deg is the orgional corvette setup. My design will have about the same camber curve as a 1-1/2" dropped lower inner strut bracket.
Then I am not sure why you want to move away from the original camber curve. I would think it is better with more camber gain (at least for people who prefer the twisties). Are you designing for straight line traction?. Also, those parallel struts put the roll center really high (close to CG) which is not necessarily a good thing. Maybe thats why Norval has no perceived body roll.
If you have a design that already has the lower strut horizontal and an upper strut placement that gives more camber gain I would be interested in getting the design file on that. I have access to solidworks and would like to play around a bit. You can email me at ccherri@yahoo.com, but if you choose to keep your work to yourself, I completely understand.