Bearing and u joint ?
2. what about replacing the rear wheel bearings, PITA also?
I think I will buy them from muskegon, since they are a sponsor. Also it is tough to beat the price
Thanks
The 1/2 shafts are east to remove and replace.
The rear bearings are a little more challenging, but can be done. The 2 challenges are that you will have to drill out the 3 small studs that hold the rotor on, that is if the rotors have never been removed. The second challenge is the inner rear wheel bearing may be stuck to the rear stub shaft. If this is the case, to remove the stuck inner rear bearing from the shaft you will need a slide hammer and a wheel bearing tool or torch. These wheel bearing tools are costly, but I remember a while ago that someone had one on the CF tool loaner program. I hope this information helps
The 1/2 shafts are east to remove and replace.
The rear bearings are a little more challenging, but can be done. The 2 challenges are that you will have to drill out the 3 small studs that hold the rotor on, that is if the rotors have never been removed. The second challenge is the inner rear wheel bearing may be stuck to the rear stub shaft. If this is the case, to remove the stuck inner rear bearing from the shaft you will need a slide hammer and a wheel bearing tool or torch. These wheel bearing tools are costly, but I remember a while ago that someone had one on the CF tool loaner program. I hope this information helps
A torch to remove the inner bearing
There are 5 rivits that hold the rotor on. You'll have to drill them out if they have not been removed already. You have to press out the spindle and press the outer bearing off as well. You will need to buy some tools to do this job yourself and correctly.
The joints in the driveshaft aren't too bad but the 1/2 shaft joints are tougher. Don't expect a bench vise to press them out and you must support the flange when working on them or you'll wreck it for sure. If you have a torch cut them out with it or even a die grinder.
Rear bearings are not hard but critical to setup. You should set them to .001-.002 end play and get the rotor runout under .003" You will need some special tools and experience. If you ever worked to close tolerences as toolmaker, machine repair mechanic, or machinist they are "cake" if you aren't experienced with bearings I suggest you send them out. I do couple for club members maybe you're in a club with an experienced guy there? Van Steel or Bairs can also do the job and do nice work.
You may find it hard to remove them from the car. I suggest you do a search here because these jobs have been talked about on a weekly basis since I joined in '99
Good luck,
Gary
Like any repair...how much is it worth to you? Check the prices if someone else does the whole job.
The joints in the driveshaft aren't too bad but the 1/2 shaft joints are tougher. Don't expect a bench vise to press them out and you must support the flange when working on them or you'll wreck it for sure. If you have a torch cut them out with it or even a die grinder.
Rear bearings are not hard but critical to setup. You should set them to .001-.002 end play and get the rotor runout under .003" You will need some special tools and experience. If you ever worked to close tolerences as toolmaker, machine repair mechanic, or machinist they are "cake" if you aren't experienced with bearings I suggest you send them out. I do couple for club members maybe you're in a club with an experienced guy there? Van Steel or Bairs can also do the job and do nice work.
You may find it hard to remove them from the car. I suggest you do a search here because these jobs have been talked about on a weekly basis since I joined in '99
Good luck,
Gary
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