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Update on my broken cam

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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 11:38 AM
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Default Update on my broken cam

Well I finally had the time to remove the engine so I could get the other half of the cam out. Here is what it looks like.


And here are close-ups of the break.



There is no evidence of a crack propagation/fatigue failure but I'm not sure how much information cast iron will give for such a condition. I will say that the cam bearings show evidence of overheating and the main bearings have cam bearing material embedded in them. So I will be changing all the bearings.

I'm debating if I should replace the rings while I'm at it. I'm happy to hear opinions on it. I will probably remove the pistons to change the bearings. The rings only have 15,000 miles on them so I don't know if I want to do that or not.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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Check the ring end gap and that will tell you how much they are worn. If the gap is too big replace them.

Did your oil pump size to cause the shear break in the cam?

I would not have believed it till I saw this last year. I had a friend doing a small block and he called me up and told me that he couldn't fit the cam in. He didn't want to force it and tear up the cam bearings.

The Comp Cam was warped from one end to the other. He got it from local Summit racing and it could have been on a shelf with weight on it for a couple of years. They gave him a new one. But I got to thinking if you got one with less warp and managed to install it. It would just kill the cam bearings over time and maybe sieze up from bearing heat.

Cast cams are weak. If somebody ever dropped it it could have had a crack from day one and it took a hickup 15,000 miles later to break.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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I would replace the rings anyway, even if the gap is fine and run a bottle brush through the bores first, new rings and be done with it (if the rest specs out OK)
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 12:12 PM
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Been there, done that. But mine was twice and the result of broken rods. Junked nearly everything. Block, heads, pan, and once even took a valve cover. When the tach needle goes all the way around to the "H" as in "TACH", crap happens.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 12:17 PM
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I missed the first post on this one. What brand of cam was it. I see comp cams above. That would suck big time. Could someone link up the original thread.
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 02:12 PM
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Holy crap!!! I am really starting to have second thoughts about my CCxtreme choice! My cam did not slide into tthe block that easy. I am wandering if maybe it is warped. How would you tell?

Did you have any valve to piston slap when that cam let go?
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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That's nice how it broke right in the middle: You can now use the cam in a 4-cylinder engine! Simply cut your block in half behind the first two cylinders, weld a flat plate onto the back to seal it off, re-install the cam and use a crank trigger ignition instead of a distributor. No problem! There's an easy fix to everything...
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 05:15 PM
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Running springs that are higher than the recommended pressure will snap the cam in half
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Old Feb 17, 2005 | 08:42 PM
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Eddie, here is the link to my original post http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&page=1&pp=20

BlackRat, at least three valves are bent and it looks like another one touched so I will replace all of those.

Yeah lars, I like that idea. Kind of like the Scat V-4 that is based on a small block chevy. I like easy fixes.

GDaina, I would expect to wipe lobes before snapping a cam. Besides, the springs where not very stout so I don't think that was the cause. All the lobes look really good as do the bottoms of the lifters. I'll be talking to Comp Cams soon and I'll let you guys know what they say.
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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ttt for those who haven't seen it yet.
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Old Feb 18, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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In the pic with the lobe.... do the sides of all the lobes look like that?

Could be mistaken, but it looks like the cam was manufactured "porous"... defective from the start.
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