Got one coil over mount almost finished...
Drifting
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 43
From: Plano TX
TT - The bracket looks great so far!
I just picked up a plasma cutter the other day, since cutting with a hacksaw was getting old. My 110 volt Miller MIG was struggling with 3/16 steel when using gas so swapped to flux core which gave much better penetration per recomendations of my local wleding supply shop.
Since I need to reatain the compartments on my 80, I mounted the shock at the rear of the trailing arm. It's basically a strong L bracket that bolts into the tail end of the T-arm with 4 hardened 3/8 bolts from the side (two each side) and a 3/4 bolt going through the old spring bolt hole and the upper flat of the bracket.
Since the shock attaches 9 inches below the T-arm I will attach a strut low down on the bracket (near the shock mount) and attach it to the through bolt for the lower strut rod. This should control the leverage effect of the coil-over. The upper mount is inside the frame just rrear of the 80 diff brackets.
Right now I still have the stock T-arm however the plan is to keep moving forward wth adding two trailing links similar to yours.
To control toe I made the rear coil over bracket go about 1 3/4 inches to the rear of the T-arm so I have a flat surface to mount a toe link. The arm will go from the center of the diff and mount to the bracket between the coilover and the T-arm.
I have two brackets fab'd and will try to send you picks.
Dave
I just picked up a plasma cutter the other day, since cutting with a hacksaw was getting old. My 110 volt Miller MIG was struggling with 3/16 steel when using gas so swapped to flux core which gave much better penetration per recomendations of my local wleding supply shop.
Since I need to reatain the compartments on my 80, I mounted the shock at the rear of the trailing arm. It's basically a strong L bracket that bolts into the tail end of the T-arm with 4 hardened 3/8 bolts from the side (two each side) and a 3/4 bolt going through the old spring bolt hole and the upper flat of the bracket.
Since the shock attaches 9 inches below the T-arm I will attach a strut low down on the bracket (near the shock mount) and attach it to the through bolt for the lower strut rod. This should control the leverage effect of the coil-over. The upper mount is inside the frame just rrear of the 80 diff brackets.
Right now I still have the stock T-arm however the plan is to keep moving forward wth adding two trailing links similar to yours.
To control toe I made the rear coil over bracket go about 1 3/4 inches to the rear of the T-arm so I have a flat surface to mount a toe link. The arm will go from the center of the diff and mount to the bracket between the coilover and the T-arm.
I have two brackets fab'd and will try to send you picks.
Dave
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
I was thinking about moving them in the rear but that would mean I'd had to weld an awfully long beam to the end of the hub to hold the shock and the toe control rod needs to go there also so I ended up doing it like this.
Looking forward to seeing your pics, do you have my email addy? if not it's twinturbo @ home.nl
Marck
Looking forward to seeing your pics, do you have my email addy? if not it's twinturbo @ home.nl
Marck
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 16,416
Likes: 1
From: NC,USA
Looks like fun!
I've been thinking about cutting out my floor in the back and replacing it with sheet aluminum... Lower it down as far as it'll go and weld in a tool box holder/battery box!
Mainly for a weight reduction...
sheet aluminum is a LOT lighter than fiberglass of any thickness that'll support weight... where a thin backing strip is all thats needed for support on the aluminum. 
I've been thinking about cutting out my floor in the back and replacing it with sheet aluminum... Lower it down as far as it'll go and weld in a tool box holder/battery box!
Mainly for a weight reduction...
sheet aluminum is a LOT lighter than fiberglass of any thickness that'll support weight... where a thin backing strip is all thats needed for support on the aluminum.
