Got one coil over mount almost finished...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Got one coil over mount almost finished...
It still needs an additional strengthening wall for the shock mount (on the left side ruynning to the underside of the bracket that bolts to the hub) but I just wanted to show what I came up with in terms of a shock mount, the steel is over 4mm thick so plenty strong.
The big hole is for a plugweld.
...that's all folks
The big hole is for a plugweld.
...that's all folks
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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That's exactly what I'm thinking about, cutting out the tubs. I will check if it fits like this, if not they're gone. I will then relocate the battery to the center of the car and that will also give me room for the 5gal dry sump tank but first I'll isntall my cage and see how I can fit the subframe for the supension stuff, it will fit with the tubs in place but removing them is much easier. I could then make an access plate that goes over where the storage boxes are and fasten it with gzus fasteners or somethign for access to the diff pinoon area, the shock mounts, the upper strup moutns and all sorts of stuff. It'd also allow me to run my single stage rear end pump off the driveshaft.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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When my new shop is ready and the damn builders haven't even started because they are slacking on another build. I think I'm gonna rip the diff from under the car, make a stand for it and do a mockup.
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Yes, I still have to finish the the toe control bracket but I'll have to mock it up with the diff to see how much it needs to sit back to clear the batwing. You pre 79 guys have it so much easier.
the front bracket attaches to the frame w. the stock trailign arm bolt and a through bolt, the lower one also goes through 2 ears on the frame:
This will not fall off
As for race car
yup..pretty much what I'm building (and hoping it'll still be streetlegal)
I also bought a 18.25" appleton pwoer assisted steering rack, front steer end take off so once that comes in that project will start also. I'll need to do some serious chopping on the fromt crossmember to make room for the rack input shaft and the dry sump pump.
the front bracket attaches to the frame w. the stock trailign arm bolt and a through bolt, the lower one also goes through 2 ears on the frame:
This will not fall off
As for race car
yup..pretty much what I'm building (and hoping it'll still be streetlegal)I also bought a 18.25" appleton pwoer assisted steering rack, front steer end take off so once that comes in that project will start also. I'll need to do some serious chopping on the fromt crossmember to make room for the rack input shaft and the dry sump pump.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Feb 17, 2005 at 01:20 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
TT, there is about a dozen guys on this forum who's work I totally respect and admire, and pay attention when you all speak, and you are surely among that crowd....
hats off guy, when can I expect MY custom race car???
snicker....
GENE
hats off guy, when can I expect MY custom race car???
snicker....
GENE
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Looks good Twin turbo but make sure it is low enough. Your shocks are longer travel then mine and my lower mount is lower then yours so you must be mounting the upper mount quit high up, certainly not under the frame like stock?
Thread Starter
Race Director
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My upper mount can go anywhere I want, I don't have an emotional bond with the tubs so if they need to go, they need to go. The shock is fully extended in thatm pic. It's a 12" closed length shock, what do you have 10s ?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
My upper mount can go anywhere I want, I don't have an emotional bond with the tubs so if they need to go, they need to go. The shock is fully extended in thatm pic. It's a 12" closed length shock, what do you have 10s ?
The top mount is under the frame, not beside it and the lower mount is below the lower outer strut mount.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Feb 17, 2005 at 02:56 PM.
Race Director
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
My upper mount can go anywhere I want, I don't have an emotional bond with the tubs so if they need to go, they need to go. The shock is fully extended in thatm pic. It's a 12" closed length shock, what do you have 10s ?
Thread Starter
Race Director
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I will probably need to cut them anyway to mount my dry sump tank. I had bigger eyes than sense when I bought it and got a 5 gallon one I am also going to run a rearend pump off a pulley welded on the end of the driveshaft so I need to make room for that too.
I think from the looks of it your shock mount is about a full inch or so lower than mine, maybe 2" at most...then I will mount my shock on the inside of the frame so I don't think the 12" collapsed length will be a problem.
And who needs storage boxes, I never had stuff in them anyway, I don't even have the lids to go over them. A nicely glassed smooth floor there would be much better...maybe I'll chop an access hole w/ a shotgun or dremel to accss stuff down there LOL
I am also going to run a rearend pump off a pulley welded on the end of the driveshaft so I need to make room for that too.I think from the looks of it your shock mount is about a full inch or so lower than mine, maybe 2" at most...then I will mount my shock on the inside of the frame so I don't think the 12" collapsed length will be a problem.
And who needs storage boxes, I never had stuff in them anyway, I don't even have the lids to go over them. A nicely glassed smooth floor there would be much better...maybe I'll chop an access hole w/ a shotgun or dremel to accss stuff down there
LOL
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Feb 17, 2005 at 02:59 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
You are going full cage. This is really going to limit you. YOu constantly remove the body and strip it down to the frame. All this will end when you do the cage.
YOu have to install the body before doing the cage. This is a pain. Either that or you leave the cage until last and you seem to be anxious to get started on it and tie it into your suspension. Work on the battery boxes should be done before the body goes back on.
YOu have to install the body before doing the cage. This is a pain. Either that or you leave the cage until last and you seem to be anxious to get started on it and tie it into your suspension. Work on the battery boxes should be done before the body goes back on.
Thread Starter
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Yes full cage and yes I have pulled the body more times that I can count...but it will stop soemtime in the near future . I will build up the cage but only tack it to the frame, then I can cut it loose and send off the frame for powdercoating, then grind off the powdercoat from the cage base plates (yes I will use base plates on the frame) and weld on the cage, then i will spray the cage in the same or a close enough color so it's not visible that there was some grinding done on the mounting plates. As for access to the cage... I have my trusty old saw and luckily holes in fiberglass are easily fixed so I will just cut a big honking hole, weld what needs welding , spray the area and then glass in the floor again or whatever section it is.
The battery boxes are no problem, if I want to cut them I can lift the body in 5 minutes and start hacking away..I'm quite proficient at lifting this thing w/ my cherry picker LOL I had it off not too long ago to remove the engine and transmission, took me about 2 hours to remove everything and get the body back on. It's not botled down, the lower body moutn pieces are installed on the 4 frame rail points (pos #2 & 3) and the bolts are in place to guide the body over the mounts.
. I will build up the cage but only tack it to the frame, then I can cut it loose and send off the frame for powdercoating, then grind off the powdercoat from the cage base plates (yes I will use base plates on the frame) and weld on the cage, then i will spray the cage in the same or a close enough color so it's not visible that there was some grinding done on the mounting plates. As for access to the cage... I have my trusty old saw and luckily holes in fiberglass are easily fixed so I will just cut a big honking hole, weld what needs welding , spray the area and then glass in the floor again or whatever section it is.The battery boxes are no problem, if I want to cut them I can lift the body in 5 minutes and start hacking away..I'm quite proficient at lifting this thing w/ my cherry picker LOL
I had it off not too long ago to remove the engine and transmission, took me about 2 hours to remove everything and get the body back on. It's not botled down, the lower body moutn pieces are installed on the 4 frame rail points (pos #2 & 3) and the bolts are in place to guide the body over the mounts.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Feb 18, 2005 at 03:07 AM.