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Basically, it's a matter of finesse and lots of luck. Many times the body bolts are so rusty they break off, which will cause the need for complete removal so you can get at the broken bolts for drilling and re-tapping. You will want to soak the bolts with a very good penetrating oil daily for several days before you even think about trying to remove them.
If you are lucky enough to get the bolts loose, just disconnect everything so you can get a little movement, and jack the body off the frame enough for clearance. Be sure to check those rocker channels, often they rust out and you never know it until the body is off where you can see them. I hope this is not the case in your project.
At any rate, here's a "TTT" for you.
If you are going with the poly mounts you can get by with only lifting one side at a time about 2". Getting the bolts out is the hard part,soak with PB blaster then soak somemore. Take your time and you stand a pretty good chance at getting them out. Redbad just had a very complete artical and pictures on this if you do a search under his user name. Did mine about a month ago if i can help just let me know could e-mail you how to if need be.
Dan: Go to forum member "RedBad1979" 's home page. He has numerous outstanding photos of the process. The photos are very detailed and helpful. Member "Zwede" also has an excellent written article on this project. Redbad1979 did the replacement without a complete body off. He lifted one side at a time.
I just got new poly mounts and i am going to put them on after i do my clutch. Couple questions. I would have thought that you just bolt the bushing in place with no special shimming you know incase the body had moved a little, the bushing would put the body where its suposed to be. But if i'm supposed to shim i will. Also how much of the interoir and engine bay should be removed for a full body lift, just curious not going to lift body for mount replacement.
P.S. I built a set of the ramps out of wood that i saw some other people on the forum had built and they are sweet. I'm pulling the transmision and they give me planty of room and i have my jack and jack stands free to help with transmission instead of holding the car up.
I owned a Elkart Green 1972 Coupe that I did this conversion to back in the early 70's after the 73' model year came out and it was known that they came with rubber mounts and because of it gave a better ride. I purchased a set of rubber mounts and the rest of the hardware then from GM. Back around that time Hot Rod magazine had a article showing exactly what needed to be done. That was 30 or so years ago and I was alot younger and didn't have a whole lot of tools but I did the job using a bottle jack and pieces of scrap wood to put between the jack and the body. Make sure you have a couple of jack stands around also just in case. I remember first getting all body mounts lose. You will probably need alot of penetrant now. P.B. Blaster is probably the best that I know of. I did one side at a time from front to back. You will need to get under the dash and drop the steering column, two nuts should be holding it up and also disconnect the steering under the hood. You need to do this to raise the body up. You will notice when done that the colum will come up some because of the different mounts being used. You won't have much space between the column and the dash now when putting back the 2 nuts holding the column up. This is what I remember from doing this job so long ago. It really wasn't that bad of a job to do once you get started. If you have rust out or frozen bolts now that these cars are older that may pose a different problem though.
You may be able to retrieve the information online from Hot Rod Magazine. I am sure they probably still have that article on file. You definitely will notice a difference that this change over will make. The ride was much better then with the previously installed metal mounts and I noticed it back then even with glass belted tires installed. With a set of todays radials it will be much better.