front bumper removal
The problem I have is that the paint guy said that it would be better if the front bumper was removed first due to cracking along the seam at a later date if painted as one with the car.
I have just been trying to remove it and wrung the first two studs off, does this really have to be removed and if so is there a method of repair if the others break off aswell?






Living over the other side of the pond means that my options are limited and although the exchange rate is very good for me, the shipping kills it a bit on large parcels from the usa.






The hardest part of the job is the access to some of these "nuts" is NOT easy.
I took my front & rear bumper covers off for painting & those studs can be a real PITA. In the end I gave up trying to get some of the nuts off with care & just undid them. If the studs snapped then, well, they snapped. It's easy enough to repair them once it's all apart & you won't need to buy any kits from the US. A visit to the local hardware shop is all that's needed. They (on an '81 at least) are mounted on steel strips that are pop rivetted to the cover. It's easy to drill out the rivets, drill out the snapped stud on a drill press & then replace the stud with a bolt. Clamp the bolt to the support using a nut (there's enough room to "lose" it in the recess in the cover) & then just pop rivet the strip back onto the cover. The rear cover was easy to remove (once all the mounting nuts were undone), but the front on mine needed a bit of flexing to get it off (the studs either side of the top "corners" were stopping it from just falling off). Send me an email if you need any pics as I took quite a few so that I didn't forget how it all went back together. Be careful it doesn't snowball on you: I ended up with the entire front of the car in pieces, right back to the timing cover! It looks good all painted now but, phew, what a bunch of work it was!
Another bit of advice. I spent 3 full days over a Christmas sitting in front of the TV while rubbing down the rear bumper cover with 400 grade wet-or-dry (in the time it took to rub down 1/3 of the bumper, some guy on TV had completely restored a series 1 E-type
). The front took even longer. Doing that gets you real, real
if the painter doesn't put enough flex agent in with the paint. You get even madder when he doesn't use the correct primers on new fibreglass parts & the paint comes out in a rash of micro-blisters after a couple of months. Choose your painter carefully
Check out Corvette Kingdom's website as they sell parts like bumper covers. I bought a lower air dam from them in bare fibreglass (now white with a bad case of acne
) & it fitted perfectly. They have converted an earlier vert to the 80-82 style front & rear using their parts & it looks
If you want to talk to them about it then leave it for a while as Ray (the owner) died last week (a great loss to us UK Vetters
) & his funeral is tomorrow.Good luck with the painting,
Paul
p.s. there can't be many Dave's in England with C3's looking like that! I haven't forgotten your wheels & the despatch driver is (very) well aware that he needs to drive them up to you. If you need them urgently let me know & I'll drive them up myself.
Additionally, if you need any of those metal bumper mounting strips repaired & don't feel like doing them yourself, send them down & I'll do them for you (as an apology for the wheels taking so long!). If you do them yourself I'd recommend using st/st bolts (set screws) & nuts so that they don't rust in place again (making it easier to get the cover off if the paint cracks/bubbles).
edit: I repaired the broken studs with 3/16" UNC set screws (st/st).
Last edited by UKPaul; Feb 24, 2005 at 10:50 AM.
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I will send you an email, some pictures of the front disasembled will help so I know what to expect.

OK I'll admit it don't know how to attach photos anyone help me on this one
Last edited by chevy-dave; Feb 24, 2005 at 12:15 PM.







