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Re:Parking Brake Responses

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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 11:27 AM
  #1  
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From: Lino Lakes Minnesota
Default Re:Parking Brake Responses

Thanks to those responding to my previous parking brake question. I intend to replace the rotors because the one's I removed are rusted and erroded. I'm not a fan of turning older rotors as experience as shown they only warp from the heat. So, new rotors, stainless actuator parts, and regular steel brake shoes it is.

Two other questions:
1. Do you guys actually put rivets back in the rotors?? Can't see the need for it myself.
2. Regarding control arm bushings, any opinions on urethane over the rubber?

Thanks again, your experience and advice is much appreciated!
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 11:46 AM
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Default Rotor rivets

When I changed the front rotors last year I used counter sunk bolts to hold the rotors on the hubs. A machine shop trued the rotor/hub assembly before I installed them on the car. I bought the rivets for the rotors but decided not to use them. Unlike soft aluminum rivets, these rivets are steel and quite hard. You would have to heat them up first before driving them, for most people this would be tough. On the rear rotors I used brass shim stock to true the rotor to the hub. I haven't bolted the rear rotors to the hub yet, but intend to. To date the shim stock method has worked well for me. If anyone has riveted the rotors back on in their garage I would like to hear about how they did it. Some vendors offer this riveting service but I think it is costly.

Chuck D
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 12:24 PM
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Ne need to rivit the rotors back on. The wheels will hold everything together. I have urethane in all my bushings on the car. It does not wear out like the rubber will and the ride is not at all harsh like some beleive.
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 01:38 PM
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With poly trailing arm bushings you can install the bushings without removing the trailing arms.

You STILL have to sawzall through the original bolts, at least in the case of my 28 year old original set up.
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 03:31 PM
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You can turn the rotors without fear as long as they are between 1.215 and 1.250" regardless if you turn or replace them you must check the runout. New rotors or rotors turned on a brake lather will not gaurantee low runout. I've used new rotors that ran out .009" in order to have functioning long term brakes the runout has to be under .003". Bearing endplay must be also under.003".
I use SS shim stock and a punch set to make up shims to dial in the runout,works pretty good/
Gary
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Old Feb 26, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by gtr1999
You can turn the rotors without fear as long as they are between 1.215 and 1.250" regardless if you turn or replace them you must check the runout. New rotors or rotors turned on a brake lather will not gaurantee low runout. I've used new rotors that ran out .009" in order to have functioning long term brakes the runout has to be under .003". Bearing endplay must be also under.003".
I use SS shim stock and a punch set to make up shims to dial in the runout,works pretty good/
Gary

gary did you ever write a paper on doing this? i got a dial indicator for Christmas and this would be a fun project to do....however i'm not sure of the method you would use to shim the rotor.... do you shim every other stud or each stud? thks bob
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Old Feb 27, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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Bob, no I never wrote a paper on doing this. Shimming depends on the rotor and spindle flange, they're all different. I'm holding a brake class in New Haven on 3/19 and expect to go over it if you want to drive up.
Gary
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