My new damper has a really snug fit on to the snout and i`m wondering is there anyway to measure if the damper is fully "on" the snout? I`m kinda worried that if i continue to force in on i`ll rip the threads right out of the crank.
I have about 1/4" left of the damper before the snout and damper is at the same level.
I did this a few years ago but i cant really remember the numbers..

 

First don't pull the damper on with the crank bolt, you'll rip the threads right out.

I don't know the numbers from the top of my head but I usually install the water pump with the pulley and bolt on the crank pulley and align those

 

I`m using a installationtool. I have an electric WP so i cant use it as help.

 

You can measure the damper thickness at the hub and the distance from the end of the crank to the outside of the bottom timing gear. Subtract the little number from the big number and then compare that dimension to the assembly.

If you use the damper install tool you can usualy "feel" when it hits the end of it's travel. Use lots of moly paste on the bearing to reduce frictional losses and it makes it easy to "feel" when you hit bottom. Pull it out a little and then tighten it back up again if you are unsure. You will probably feel it better the second time.

-Mark.

 

There are on occasions problems with "Fits" of the dampner especially with aftermarket products. There sould be a 0.0005 to 0.0015 interference fit on your crank dampner (thats five tenths to one point five thousandths of interference fit meaning they don't slid together just like rear spindles shouldn't slide together on a Vette.) I will explain how I found this out the hard way: I had a problem with my LT-1 motor early on and had to tear it back down (due to a defective Edelbrock EFI ECM but, thats another story.) I used a Sunnen Product called B-200 lube on intial dampner assembly (I think this stuff may be Sperm Whale oil, it is really "trick" stuff.) When I started to reassemble the motor, I used Permatex #2 Avaition gasket sealer, after getting the dampner on about 3/4 of the way, I knew something wasn't right (the difference between you+me and "Bubba" is that at this point "Bubba" pulls out the BIG HAMMER.) I removed the dampner and observed mild galling and disruption of the metal crank snout, I then measured the dampner and found it was over a 0.0035" interferance fit=NO GO! I had to rework my crank snout and hone the dampner's inner diameter on a connecting rod hone (I also had to buy a replacement stone set because I crashed the hone on the dampner key way during the first try.) You DO need a interferance fit on your dampner, just make sure it's 0.0015" or less. You can go to a NAPA store and buy a 7/16" spring center bolt to make a neat dampner installation tool for about $4-5. Spring center bolts are used on muti-leaf springs to hold the stack toghether and locat the rear end housing. You should probably have a talk with an automotive machinist about your problem. Sunnen B-200 lube is the BEST lube that was ever made for putting force-fit assemblies toghether but, it is not cheap. I hope this helps you out, feel free to get me to clarify anything you don't understand.

 

What damper are you installing? I have some pics of the relationship between the OEM L-82 timing tab and the damper edge at the timing mark on the OEM 8 inch balancer. It is ~10mm from the tab "points" to the damper edge. Some things that will ease installation: "warm" the damper's bore-I used an old trouble light with 100 watt bulb next to the bore for about an hour. Some suggest using the oven but I wouldn't get it too hot to avoid damaging the elastometer and the timing cover seal itself-maybe 150 degrees. Have the installation tool all set up so you waste no time and don't lose the heat/expansion in the damper bore. Lubricate the crank snout and the damper bore with ATF and get it on quickly. With lubrication and a little heat I was able to feel when the damper "landed" without a doubt. I used these methods successfully-the tranny fluid is much more slippery than other lubes-according to the engineering folks. Good luck.

 

I pulled the damper off again and there were aparent "squish"marks where the grease hade been squashed against the camgear.
So apparently its seated. Tomorrow i`ll check the alignment against the PS pulley and see if it lines up properly.

 

i boil mine in an old pot.
and sometimes ice the crank