Rear shock lower mount removal
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 792
Likes: 2
From: Norcross GA
Spray with PBBlaster. Go to hardware store. Buy two nuts the same size as the castle nut. Screw on end of mount locking the two togther and drive out.
Do not hammer directly on the mount or the castle nut.
Do not hammer directly on the mount or the castle nut.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
It seems that the inner sleeve is rusted to the shock mount. You won't get the penetrating oil between the inner sleeve and the shock mount, I don't mean to sound too negative but you'll likely have to beat them out resulting in a damaged thread on the shock mount.
Here's what I did (yes, I had the same problem): I cut the strut rods and burnt the rubber so I could get to the inner sleeve and cut it with a dremel. I "injected" the penetrating oil/rust remover through the cut and removed the shock mount without destroying it... This was the passenger side, my driver's side shock mount was a hard lesson: I damaged the thread and had to replace it...
Now here's the good news: two 'stock' strut rods are a lot cheaper than two lower shock mounts. The shock mounts are $40 each, the strut rods are $50 or so and the adjustable strut rods are $89...
If you plan on installing the adjustable rods anyway then it makes a lot of sense to destroy the old rods in order to safe the shock mounts...
Here's what I did (yes, I had the same problem): I cut the strut rods and burnt the rubber so I could get to the inner sleeve and cut it with a dremel. I "injected" the penetrating oil/rust remover through the cut and removed the shock mount without destroying it... This was the passenger side, my driver's side shock mount was a hard lesson: I damaged the thread and had to replace it...
Now here's the good news: two 'stock' strut rods are a lot cheaper than two lower shock mounts. The shock mounts are $40 each, the strut rods are $50 or so and the adjustable strut rods are $89...
If you plan on installing the adjustable rods anyway then it makes a lot of sense to destroy the old rods in order to safe the shock mounts...
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 511
Likes: 4
From: Phoenix AZ
These can be a bear to get out if the sleeve inside the strut end is rusty.
Another tip.....When the car is up on jack stands the suspension will hang down pushed on by the spring. This will add a binding force in the strut that will work against you. Relieving this force should help a little. I usually jack the spring end up.
When putting it all back together coat the mount shaft and inside of the bushing sleeve with anti-seize. This will help prevent some of the rusting for a little while.
Question: Why don't the manufactures of those nice urethane bushings use a stainless bushing sleeve?
Another tip.....When the car is up on jack stands the suspension will hang down pushed on by the spring. This will add a binding force in the strut that will work against you. Relieving this force should help a little. I usually jack the spring end up.
When putting it all back together coat the mount shaft and inside of the bushing sleeve with anti-seize. This will help prevent some of the rusting for a little while.
Question: Why don't the manufactures of those nice urethane bushings use a stainless bushing sleeve?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by 82Vette'ster
Question: Why don't the manufactures of those nice urethane bushings use a stainless bushing sleeve?
With the water-resistant grease in there it should be fine for many years...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 0
From: Madison Ms
Been there, done it.........it was a biatch.....
Spray some PB blaster occasionally over 24 hrs, thin put a another nut on the end, and beat the hell out of it. Now it will only go so far, so then you must back the nut 1/2 off, and find something like an old pointed hammer drill bit (it's heavy duty), and stick it inside the nut, and beat the hell out of it some more. You will finally have to take the nut off, but by this time you should have a nice hole started in the end so you won't slip.
I also found that by putting the jack under the spindle unit arms, you can take some pressure off and get it out of a bind with the strut rod. You will have to play around with the pressure. Keep beating, it will come out. All I ended up with was a little hole in the end of the shock mount bolt from beating in the old hammer drill bit.
Spray some PB blaster occasionally over 24 hrs, thin put a another nut on the end, and beat the hell out of it. Now it will only go so far, so then you must back the nut 1/2 off, and find something like an old pointed hammer drill bit (it's heavy duty), and stick it inside the nut, and beat the hell out of it some more. You will finally have to take the nut off, but by this time you should have a nice hole started in the end so you won't slip.
I also found that by putting the jack under the spindle unit arms, you can take some pressure off and get it out of a bind with the strut rod. You will have to play around with the pressure. Keep beating, it will come out. All I ended up with was a little hole in the end of the shock mount bolt from beating in the old hammer drill bit.
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Brett Foote
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,377
Likes: 6,377
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
with everyone: You beat the heck out of it, and protect the threads using a nut the best you can. But be prepared to replace the mount...Heres the mount, strut rod, and the rest of the rear hub & spindle that we yanked out of Jim's '74 in San Francisco as part of the Tuning for Beer Tour this last weekend. Hitting it with a BFH resulted in the complete disassembly in 30 minutes flat.
Here's me, our friend Peter, the Sledge Hammer, the Beer, and the bent strut rod:
Pro
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 582
Likes: 0
From: Ashaway RI
I used a Sears gear puller similar to this to remove the shock mounts. Put the jaws on the strut rod and the center screw on the threaded side of the shock mount. As you turn the center screw in, it will push the shock mount out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
I can't agree with the BFH in this case.
If it doesn't start pushing out with a few good wacks, forget it.
Best bet is the gear puller above. Just grab on the farthest ear
of the bearing support - so you don't snap the ear off.
If the puller won't push it through - then cutting the old strut rod
off can save the shock mount. Most people seem to be upgrading
the strut rods anyway. Yes, I cut mine off, too (one of them).
If it doesn't start pushing out with a few good wacks, forget it.
Best bet is the gear puller above. Just grab on the farthest ear
of the bearing support - so you don't snap the ear off.
If the puller won't push it through - then cutting the old strut rod
off can save the shock mount. Most people seem to be upgrading
the strut rods anyway. Yes, I cut mine off, too (one of them).
I damaged one but the second came out clean...Major PITA!
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: GA
I think i just cut the shock mount with a sawzall right next to the strut rod. But I replaced the strut rods (both were bent from bad alignments), and the shock mounts, why not go all out, make it easier on yourself. Maybe that's why it took me 2.5 years to put it back together..damn money..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Originally Posted by sxtoz
I think i just cut the shock mount with a sawzall right next to the strut rod. ..
Eddie
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
take some pressure off and get it out of a bind with the strut rod. You will have to play around with the pressure.
