Probably need new engine...
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Get some good aftermarket heads and a new cam for under $1000. Get some friends and you will fit it all in a weekend.
IF you want bang for buck AND want to drive it to work then keep the original configuration so that you can pass smog tests. I don't know how good flowing heads effects smog tests, might need to check that, a CAM probably will.
IF you want bang for buck AND want to drive it to work then keep the original configuration so that you can pass smog tests. I don't know how good flowing heads effects smog tests, might need to check that, a CAM probably will.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 434
Likes: 47
From: Lake in the Hills IL
Originally Posted by Nascar5085
I got the same problem with no place to work on the car and I got a quote of 2500.00 to rebuild my engine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by stingry
Get some good aftermarket heads and a new cam for under $1000. Get some friends and you will fit it all in a weekend.
IF you want bang for buck AND want to drive it to work then keep the original configuration so that you can pass smog tests. I don't know how good flowing heads effects smog tests, might need to check that, a CAM probably will.
IF you want bang for buck AND want to drive it to work then keep the original configuration so that you can pass smog tests. I don't know how good flowing heads effects smog tests, might need to check that, a CAM probably will.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Well we found out it has a flat spot in the cam after all. The exhaust valve wasn't even lifting.
Suggestions on where to go from here? Just put a new cam in, new block, other suggestions?
Suggestions on where to go from here? Just put a new cam in, new block, other suggestions?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 844
Likes: 0
From: Central KY
Originally Posted by Kalway
Well we found out it has a flat spot in the cam after all. The exhaust valve wasn't even lifting.
Suggestions on where to go from here? Just put a new cam in, new block, other suggestions?
Suggestions on where to go from here? Just put a new cam in, new block, other suggestions?
Last edited by djcwardog; Mar 3, 2005 at 02:30 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Kalway
Well we found out it has a flat spot in the cam after all. The exhaust valve wasn't even lifting.
Suggestions on where to go from here? Just put a new cam in, new block, other suggestions?
Suggestions on where to go from here? Just put a new cam in, new block, other suggestions?
Why would you think about a new block if it's only the cam ? IF it is only the cam, remove the intake, remove the lifters (note which lifter was where) and inspect the cam lobes through the lifter holes... shine a flashlight in there to inspect the cam lobe surfaces...
I got the edelbrock Performer cam from AutoZone or AdvancedAutoParts... $140 including the lifters - smog legal and the engine runs great with it...
At this time you also want to inspect the pushrods and rocker arms and replace as needed...these are not expensive so you may want to replace them just to be sure you don't have to go back two weeks later to do it...
I never removed/installed cam bearings, hopefully some members can give you advice on these....
At the beginning of this thread you were thinking about a new engine, now you're down to a $300 repair... isn't this forum great ???
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Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad CA
As for your cam question, no, the engine does not to be pulled. Plenty of info in Tech Tips here and on corvettefaq.com to show you how. I've done it twice now, and you don't need to me a master mechanic to do it yourself.
Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: Carlsbad CA
I'm sure most people here will tell you that if you wiped a cam lobe, you will need to tear the engine down because of all the damage the loose metal will do to bearing surfaces, etc. Kind of hard to argue with that.
AT A MINIMUM you MUST get the entire engine flushed. Many shops have engine flush systems that run a cleaning fluid through the engine, and this will remove pretty much all of the metal particles that were once your cam lobe. Some cleaning solutions are oil based, some are water based. Try to go somewhere that they use an oil based solution. Keep in mind that if you just have it flushed, you're stuck with whatever damage the metal particles did before you caught the problem.
For the record, I had the exact same thing happen to me (#8 exhaust lobe wiped). I had the engine flushed, because there is a 406 buildup in my car's future, and I wanted to keep this one running for the time being.
Good luck!
AT A MINIMUM you MUST get the entire engine flushed. Many shops have engine flush systems that run a cleaning fluid through the engine, and this will remove pretty much all of the metal particles that were once your cam lobe. Some cleaning solutions are oil based, some are water based. Try to go somewhere that they use an oil based solution. Keep in mind that if you just have it flushed, you're stuck with whatever damage the metal particles did before you caught the problem.
For the record, I had the exact same thing happen to me (#8 exhaust lobe wiped). I had the engine flushed, because there is a 406 buildup in my car's future, and I wanted to keep this one running for the time being.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
I was just thinking about what the hell might have happened to the metal on the cam, to flatten it out. I did do a motor oil flush like 2000 miles ago but that probably didn't flush out any metal from the cam. I have to wait to find out if the shop can get the one lifter out, because it might be stuck. If the lifter is stuck I think I'm going to look in to a new block, just to save myself some time. If it comes out I'm looking at the edelbrock performer plus camshaft kit.
Here's a good question, will the L-82 or LT1 (1970-71) cam and lifters work on the L-81, without needing other replacements?
Here's a good question, will the L-82 or LT1 (1970-71) cam and lifters work on the L-81, without needing other replacements?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Originally Posted by page62
The L82 cam will work just fine. The LT-1 cam used solid lifters...I don't think you want to go there...
Or the edelbrock performer plus from like pep boys or autozone?
I'm geussing the LT-1 cam and lifters would require something else to be changed to work correctly?
Edit: I looked at the LT-1's specs and see it needs a lot more power from the intake to accompany the cam.
Last edited by Kalway; Mar 4, 2005 at 10:18 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,071
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
After speaking with my cam expert friend I went with a cam from Summit Racing.
SUM-K1103 Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/282, Lift .442/.465
For the price of a regular GM cam I have that kit shipped to the shop tomorrow (Saturday). Input?
SUM-K1103 Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 272/282, Lift .442/.465
For the price of a regular GM cam I have that kit shipped to the shop tomorrow (Saturday). Input?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Kalway
That's the advetised duration.
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int./224 exh.
Shorter on the intake and longer on the exhaust than the L-46/L-82 cam.
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int./224 exh.
Shorter on the intake and longer on the exhaust than the L-46/L-82 cam.
That's a little more duration than the Performer plus and a lot less than the Performer RPM (Ihad both cams from edelbrock)... yours should run fine, the RPM cam is too much for a low compression engine.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: san diego ca
Talking to the DMV won't be sufficient. You need to go to their webpage and print out the section of whatever doc specifically states this. Then take this with you when the next DMV bozo doesn't believe you (had this happen when I first registerd my '73).
Are you truly only going to drive this to shows/events? This would seem like an easy thing for revenue-hungry SD cops to target.
Be careful.
Are you truly only going to drive this to shows/events? This would seem like an easy thing for revenue-hungry SD cops to target.
Be careful.