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So my '81's engine might be pretty screwed. What are my options for under $3000 to fix it? I don't have a place to do the work myself so a shop will have to do it for me. Any suggestions?
Not positive, might have a flat cam, might just be a burnt valve or broken valve spring. It's an '81 and I won't have to smog it any more because I'm registering it as a vehicle of historic value so emissions is not a problem now.
I basically want the best bang for the buck for this fix.
Not positive, might have a flat cam, might just be a burnt valve or broken valve spring. It's an '81 and I won't have to smog it any more because I'm registering it as a vehicle of historic value so emissions is not a problem now.
I basically want the best bang for the buck for this fix.
You can't get the best bang for the buck unless you do most of the work yourself.... labor costs money... a lot of your hard earned dollars will go to labor if you have someone else do it, unless a friend does it for free. The "Mrs Engine" type places will probably cost you more than 3K- my guess. A lot of that will go for labor, and you'll end up with no bang and no bucks.
IMOP
Now remember guys.... he needs an "installed" price..... not a magazine price... he doesn't have a place to do any work.
Well I've been looking at blocks and I think I'm going to stick with a carburetor just because I don't wanna deal with wires and stuff right now. I'm thinking maybe just get a block with a roller cam.
Found out from the DMV earlier that you don't have to smog a car if it has historic vehicle plates. Yay for me.
It's sounding like it's probably just in dire need of a valve job.
By the way the motor has less than 82k miles on it. Talked to a few other people and it's most likely something external, like a pushrod or something on the head.
Not positive, might have a flat cam, might just be a burnt valve or broken valve spring. It's an '81
I basically want the best bang for the buck for this fix.
If you think that the bottom end is fine, why do you want to replace it ? You may only need a new cam, lifters, rods and valve springs...
You can remove the heads and the cam in a garage, in CA it doesn't rain that often.... it can be done in the driveway....
Best bang for the buck ? Hotter cam, aluminum heads....
The DMV has given you a bum steer. Starting next year, your '81 will require smog checks no matter what! You are in Kalifornia, aren't you? Tread carefully...
If you think that the bottom end is fine, why do you want to replace it ? You may only need a new cam, lifters, rods and valve springs...
You can remove the heads and the cam in a garage, in CA it doesn't rain that often.... it can be done in the driveway....
Best bang for the buck ? Hotter cam, aluminum heads....
Well I was originally getting the idea that the bottom end could be messed. After further discussion it's looking like something on top so it's not as bad. The thing is I don't have time to work on it right now, I'm in the middle of moving.
Does the whole engine really need to be pulled to get the cam out? The guy at the shop was talking like the whole engine would have to come out to get the cam out. It's been my impression that you don't need to remove the engine to swap the cam.
Set of aluminum heads and a hot cam eh? Might as well put a new carb on it as well
The DMV has given you a bum steer. Starting next year, your '81 will require smog checks no matter what! You are in Kalifornia, aren't you? Tread carefully...
That's only for registering it as a normal daily vehicle. I'm registering it as a historic vehicle which is only supposed to be driven on the highway for shows and club events. I'll have a motorcycle as my primary vehicle soon anyways and I don't have to renew the registration till July. There are no smog provisions for cars registered as "vehicles of historic value."
Well I was originally getting the idea that the bottom end could be messed. After further discussion it's looking like something on top so it's not as bad. The thing is I don't have time to work on it right now, I'm in the middle of moving.
Does the whole engine really need to be pulled to get the cam out? The guy at the shop was talking like the whole engine would have to come out to get the cam out. It's been my impression that you don't need to remove the engine to swap the cam.
Set of aluminum heads and a hot cam eh? Might as well put a new carb on it as well
So it's not your daily driver ? Why do you worry ???? You'll have to remove the radiator to get the cam out, the engine can stay where it's at... it's really not that bad...
rent a trailer, get the Vette to the new house and work on it as time allows...
This will be expensive if you have a shop do it for you
Not positive, might have a flat cam, might just be a burnt valve or broken valve spring. It's an '81 and I won't have to smog it any more because I'm registering it as a vehicle of historic value so emissions is not a problem now.
I basically want the best bang for the buck for this fix.
You better check on this again- I have seen the plates, but I do not think you are smog exempt as a result of getting them.