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Just bought my first vette - a '79 L82 w/ a 4 speed.
The Undercarriage leaves a lot to be desired though- corrded and dirty parts all the way through. Has anyone developed a method to clean the underside with the car while it is completely intact- different parts degreased, sanded, treated w/ paint etc. --with good results?
Pressure wash thoroughly at a do it yourself car wash with a high pressure wand.
Raise car on four jackstands.
Dress in coveralls, shower cap, eye protection, latex gloves.
Scrape with putty knife, wire brush, rotary wire brush on a flex shaft on a electric drill.
It will take you a dozen hours to do this.
Wipe down with PASO.
Paint with POR 15.
Smile with self satisfaction.........
Don't expect anyone else to appreciate this effort unless they have done it themselves!
Pressure wash thoroughly at a do it yourself car wash with a high pressure wand.
Raise car on four jackstands.
Dress in coveralls, shower cap, eye protection, latex gloves.
Scrape with putty knife, wire brush, rotary wire brush on a flex shaft on a electric drill.
It will take you a dozen hours to do this.
Wipe down with PASO.
Paint with POR 15.
Smile with self satisfaction.........
Don't expect anyone else to appreciate this effort unless they have done it themselves!
Be careful the bottom is a lot sharper than the top.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I like to keep the grime on the underside, keeps the parts from rusting,I just cleaned off the oil, undercoatiing etc that has built up on my crossmember over 25 years and hardly any rust at all was on it, took a wire brush to it and painted it and it looks brand new.
If you get any type of body twist, the glass tops can crack, along with doors and hoods. Honestly, I've never seen it happen, but I've heard too many horror stories to think it's not possible. What can it hurt?
I think that's Bull **** since there's about a 1/4" gab between doors/tops andb irdcage which will not 'cause that much stress on the doors.
First of all a lift will lift up your chasis, and assuming yoru chasis is pretty messed up, it will endure way more lbs of pressure from you doing a turn at 30 mph than the 800 or less pounds it will have to hold on a lift.
Agreed... seems like you'd encounter more chassis twist in a hard turn than you ever would on a lift. In fact, you'd get more twist jacking your car up that a lift.
A lift like that lifts will equal force from all 4 corners of your frame... I don't see how there'd be any different forces on things like your doors, hood, fiberglass etc than if you're car is just sitting there in your garage.
The hoisting thing seems to vary from car to car, but MANY on this forum have damaged their cars through improper jacking/lifting. On coupes/'verts, the problem area is where the rocker meets the rear upright section that has the striker on it, if you lift on the frame at the side. I believe it's a body mount problem as well as frame flex (it's not the most rigid frame stock). The glass T-tops will break if left latched and it is lifted (twisted) wrong. I just keep lifting mine at the suspension or very least under the crossmembers. I've had no problems, and would rather play it safe.
Why would a lift be a problem? Aren't there four feet on the lift that supports the frame as it lifts at the same points that you would put your jack stands?
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
THe front lift point is behind the motor and the back lift point is in front of the rear end assembly, alot of unsupported weight on both ends. If I put mine up on jack stands for more than a couple of minutes I will put another jack under the motor and another one under the diff.
This is turning into a thread hijack, i apologize.
The whole glass t-tops thing is not a myth. GLASS is the keyword here. They are talking about the see through glass tops, not the fiberglass tops. I've seen see through glass tops broken due to lift, but never fiberglass. And the doors thing is just obnoxious. The fit on those doors is aboslutely terrible, there's gap everywhere no matter what, no way could a door crack due to a lift, especially a 73+ door with the side impact reinforcement. If you've ever taken a door off of a 73+ they way a ton, there is pleanty of metal in there to keep it from breaking. The hood is less burly than the doors, however how much flex would it take to crack a hood? 1/4" gap all the way around it, plus the hood is bolted to the front clip, not the frame, so the clip would have to rotate an obnoxious amount before it cracked the hood.
I removed my body to clean and restore the frame ... not the most timely approach, but the results are great.
Another mamber here suggested EasyOff oven cleaner.
I cannot attest too it, but he claimed that it sprayed on and all the gunk hosed off with a powerwasher.
As far as the lifting issue - even glass Ttops should be OK
if the frame is truly solid.
That said, I might be inclined to unlatch them first - since you
never know when the frame has rusted out until it's too late.