I'm not sure where mine is in production 2Tone. I found lots of end of December dates inside the seat parts and whatnot - it was pretty interesting. It was a little worn-looking when I bought it, but the 1st owner didn't have a garage. New carpet and new paint really brought it back to life. Mine has fairly low miles at 65k.

If I can get the timing set right the car will be about 90% perfect. Just in time to sell it! I have a bad habit of doing that - getting a car just about perfect and then selling it...

 

2 Tone, that's not it either, the connector is not for a group of wires, the bypass wire goes out like a single wire with a 1 pin connector on it, just like in the pic of the 84. The connector you show here is looks like the TCC lockup, AC pressure switch & cranking signal, that's why it goes to the tranny.area.

Look at this:
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/Image2.jpg

The tan/black wire w c424 next to it.. the )) sign means a connector, that's the one you are looking for, it's on the single wire.

Leeloo, that's it! See, it's a brown connector on a single wire.

Look at the vin #, mine is a late one, I have 23904 of 25408 total.

 

I think mine is #6046 then, if we are just looking at the last digits of the vin - does that mean my car was just down the line from 2Tone's? That would make sense because of the color.

I'm pretty excited about getting this thing running good this weekend!

 

Are the last digits of your vin C5106046 ??? If so, it's 6064

You have an early blue engine also, later 82s have a black painted engine.

 

OK, it's official, I suck at this game. TT, from the pictures I've posted, what wire would I disconnect should I want to check/adjust my timing. I traced every wire coming from the distributor and found only the ones I posted above. The first picture shows the wires that enter into the back of the distributor, the second picture shows the wires that enter at the side of the distributor. Maybe mine is too early in production and doesn't have the single wire disconnect you mentioned. Note that in both pictures I've found tan wires with a black stipe that go into the distributor. It's been awhile back but I played with the timing on my other car a little; glad the previous owner/mech had clipped the wire for me. As always, thanks for you help.

leeloo, here's some info on your car, according to the Corvette Black Book VIN # 6046 was made sometime in Feb of 1982. According to my build sheet, mine rolled off the line at BG on Feb 15th 1982.

Also, according to some research I've done on the two tone cars, they were only made when ordered by a customer, not to satisfy a forecasted customer demand like the solid color or CE cars. Only 4,871 of the 25,407 cars in 1982 were painted two-tone colors. Four color options were available, our silver blue over dark blue was the highest production at 1,667. So...if the two-tone cars were only produced when ordered then we have the most popular of the limited production two-tone option...it's all in how you spin the data for your re-sale!

 

I still think you really ought to check and verify your TDC....
I just checked my timing on my '85 (same ignition system as yours) with and without the connector hooked up. At warm slow idle, the timing does not change at idle whether the connector is hooked up or not. If your timing marks are WAY off the scale at idle, and if the car will not idle when the timing is brought onto the scale (even with the wire hooked up), chances are darned good you have a bad balancer. I'd check that out first before you even bother with trying to set the timing...

 

2 tone, it's the tan/black one in the 1st pic you posted, it's the conenctor coming off the back (base) of the distributor, look at the little blue diagram I posted, it lists the module and the wires (EST bypass marked)

 

I will defenitely check the balancer.

The car will idle if the mark is brought onto the scale, but if you try to rev the engine it will backfire - and the backfire gets worse the smaller the advance degree number is. Currently the mark is just barely off the scale.

I will be working on all this on Saturday, and will post my findings!

 

Well, everything is perfect. TDC was right on, and in fact the car had new timing parts already installed (I've only driven the car 4k miles since I've had it). The balancer had not slipped at all. The distributor, however, was in fact slightly off. Glad I pulled the front of the engine off to discover that. At least I was able to verify TDC. Here is a picture of the timing chain and the balancer on the shaft, with the timing marks circled:



I've seen people post replies on this forum before that it is impossible for a balancer to slip. It is not impossible. It is a two-piece part that looks like it was put together with a press.

The car runs great now. I had to estimate the timirng because the timing light is at the parent's house - I have it set at about 8 degrees or so right now. I will defenitely remove that brown wire before I set the timing with the light this time...

 

it's 2 pieces, the rubber is vulcanized bonding the 2 together, so that the outer ring can "move" slightly in respect to the lower one, twisting/pulling the rubber, jsut like the vulcanized suspension bushings.