Had the car for years, and finally put that right side mirror on it today. What a difference.

My new driver's side mirror is steady as a rock though, and the pass. door one isn't. Vibration at speed seems to be the whole mirror, not the head, which feels very tight. How tight can you tighten those well-nut screws into the body? The mirror mounting allen-bolt is tight, so it has to be the base unit that's attached to the door.

Suggestions?

 

 

You should be able to tighten them down until the threaded
sleeve pulls up to the point of bottoming out. Now, it's still the
rubber holding it in the holes, so maybe that will still be not enough.
As a last resort, you can pull the door panel and fabricate/install
a nut plate (like original drivers side) or use washers and nuts or
a plate with holes and washers/nuts. Double nut it if you do, since
you don't want to take the door apart to tighten them again.

If you decide to use a nut plate, then try to get some adhesive to
hold it in place. That way, removal of the mirror bracket doesn't mean
removal of the door panel.

Gotta disagree with Mikee. Duct tape is bubba. Use clear packing tape
so no-one will see it - or at least the colored duct tape to match the paint.

 

I have to adjust mine everytime the car is driven.

 

How big is the hole cmopared to the well nut? You should barely be able to push it through in order to get the tightest fit.

 

Since mine is new it seems to be pretty steady. I haven't noticed any movement out of it. I did notice that if you do not use the well nuts that came with the mirror the base will not sit flush on the mounting gasket and will not allow it to be steady. I tried to use some well nuts I had in the garage when I misplaced the ones that came with the mirror. Seems the well nuts that come with the mirror have a really thin flange that allows the mirror to sit flush.

 

There might be some hints in this pic of the C2 setup with an internal reinforcing plate.

 

Oh yea it's tight. I had to use a ragtail file to open the 3/8 holes big enough just to get the wellnuts in. They may just need more tightening than I felt comfortable doing .... :o

 

If you mounted your mirrors with the rubber inserts into the fiberglass, they will vibrate. I've been there, done that and didn't like it. One remedy is to drill completely through the fiberglass door skin into the steel reinforcement behind it. Use a machine screw and put a nut on the back of it. The mirror will then be tight and will not vibrate. I recently added some Olds Aurora mirrors to my car (not stock) and they made a heck of difference. No more blind spots.

You can find these mirrors on ebay and it's about a four hour job to install them after they are painted. These particular mirrors are heated and work electronically off of a switch but I opted not to take advantage of these features because of my location. No need for heat and I'm the only driver.

 

You should not have to open the holes up for the wellnuts. They are designed for a 3/8th hole.
I installed a passenger mirror this past summer and it only took 5 minutes and it is tight. I used the recommended 3/8th drill bit and the rubber nuts fit fine.

 

fontking1a, what year Olds Aurora are those mirrors off of, and I assume they are electric and/or heated? That is a great look, and seem a bit higher and wider as well. Very cool...

Hans

Just read the ENTIRE post! I would love the electric feature, for sure.

 

The mirrors are from a mid nineties Olds Aurora. They are heated and electric but I didn't take advantage of these features. You can see everything now. They're great and I love 'em.

 

the fiberglass cutout behind my RH mirror was too big on the back hole. i took it off and just put one of those drywall screw holder guys in there....tightened right up and looks great! (p.s. - this is not a permanent fix and my name is not Bubba)