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LOL I was at a gas station not long ago and someone asked me 2 of the funniest questions. Does it get good gas mileage and is it comfortable LOL. I just laughed and said if I was worried about that i would be driving something else
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Never have checked mine. I have never really driven it long enough to see it how hard it is on gas. Usually I do back roads cruising with slow curvy roads. I need to take the long way around the block one day, for about a 100 miles or so.
Didn't know vette owners were interested in gas milage...new one to me. Don't think that gas milage and corvette go in the same sentence.
It's important to me. If the vet gets terrible mileage I won't drive it as often. That said my Dodge truck with it's fuel injected 318 gets 11 mpg and my blown big block gets about 15 mpg.
Besides saving money it means my bigblock is running leaner and cleaner then a gas guzzler. Cars spitting raw fuel out the tail pipe beside polluting are washing the cylinders for shorter engine life. They also smell bad.
I love performance but if it isn't well done it is just Bubba at work.
Anyone can throw a cam, a big carb, headers and call it a hot rod but the skill comes in making it work well, get good mileage and a leaner motor will produce more power then the washed down poorly tuned ones.
The old gualify engines for places like Daytona use to run leaner and hotter then the actual race motors because they produced more power but life expectance was lower. It was eventually outlawed.
The old gualify engines for places like Daytona use to run leaner and hotter then the actual race motors because they produced more power but life expectance was lower. It was eventually outlawed.
That's a thought..lets ask those racers how many miles to the gallon they get!
I've got a friend that works with John Force Racing...
F/A ratio is 1.7:1 at idle and 1.2:1 at WOT. That means for every pound of air burned it burns 1.2 lbs of nitro. Fuel is injected in three places, on top of the blower, beneath the blower at the intake ports and right above the valve. No jet sizes, rather nozzle sizes.
Fuel pressure: anywhere from 550 to 600psi.
Torque: this is measured by a crush sleeve on the driveshaft, the last one I saw was over 6800 lbs/ft. Bulldozer territory.
Horsepower: this is torque and speed calculated. Anywhere from 6,000 to 8200 depending on conditions.
Boost: from 48 to 56 lbs is what the 18-71 huffers make.
"Mileage": Ha, in optimal conditions they will burn about 14 gallons in about 4.7 seconds, in poor conditions this will drop to about 10-11 gallons, Cars have a 17 gallon tank.
Ignition timing: this is changed 16 times during the quarter mile. It is generally from 24 to 56 degrees during the run with max of 48 to about 56 degrees BTDC.
Clutch packs: four abrasive disc and five sliders...$9000. Sliders last ONE run. The clutch 'slips' anywhere from 700 to 1100 ft before it goes 1:1.
Engines: usually 8 complete for each car with four short blocks. About 45K per engine. NOTE : pro stock is the most $$ at about 90 - 130K a shot.
$$ per run: approx. $5-6000 without salaries, hotels, food, transporter expenses about $8000 a run if you factor this in. Bottom line is you best have 2.5-4.5million
per car, per season.
That's a thought..lets ask those racers how many miles to the gallon they get!
My point was that just because a motor gets poor mileage and runs like crap doesn't mean it is producing it's maximum power. Leaning out can produce more power then flooding an engine. I run mine at 15-1 air fuel ratio and use the power valve to drop it to 13-1 when called upon.
If your car smells of gas even when pulling it into the garage and your eyes burn then you are too rich. Wasting fuel and power.
It's important to me. If the vet gets terrible mileage I won't drive it as often.
Well said. I don't drive a vette as an economy car but I also don't accept that performance means constant gas hog.
I love my car but to be honest... I'm on the lower end of being able to afford it. The difference between 10 mpg and 20 mpg is the difference between storage and driving.
With the RoadDemon I got 20mpg driveing sanely and about 12 getting on it. With the FI I'm getting around 18 (sane) and 14 (on it). It's still not fully tuned yet and I just got the wideband O2 upgrade so things should improve from there.
My point was that just because a motor gets poor mileage and runs like crap doesn't mean it is producing it's maximum power. Leaning out can produce more power then flooding an engine. I run mine at 15-1 air fuel ratio and use the power valve to drop it to 13-1 when called upon.
If your car smells of gas even when pulling it into the garage and your eyes burn then you are too rich. Wasting fuel and power.
OK, who gets the best - or worst - mpg on the open road, and at what speed?
Are there any tricks to saving your pocket ???????
As I have said before , changing the 4.11 diff to a 2.75 in my 429SCJ upped the gentle driving mpg from 10 / 11 ish to a measured 23 !!
Car was so powerful that it made little to no difference with road driving performance.
I drive a '69 427/435 and I'm very, very interested in gas mileage. The M-21 was a great transmission when gas was cheap but now that it's approaching and will surpass $3/gal, I'm looking to improve my fuel economy. A five or six speed is in my future and it will be the next modification made to my car. It's ridiculous to get 11-14 mpg when 20 plus is possible. If you're cruising on the freeway at 65 mph, you will be saving about $3 or more every ten miles. Now then, $3 isn't a lot of money if you're only driving ten miles. But, it adds up quickly if your round trip is 200 miles. Those of you with unlimited funds may not care, but for those of us with thinner wallets, gas mileage is now a factor. I used to pay $6.35 to fill my car with 103 octane White Pump from Chevron. Those days are gone forever.....
Some ways to get better fuel economy:
-Taller rear tires, going from 26” to a 28”
-3.08 or numerically lower rear gear
-Automatic overdrive transmission with lockup converter
-Sequential fuel injection running as lean as possible without pinging
-modern cylinder heads with heart shaped combustion chamber
-Removal of belt driven accessories (AC, pwr steering, mechanical fan)
-aftermarket multiple spark ignitions
-smaller motor 327, 305, 302…
-motor swap with Displacement On Demand technology