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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 05:28 PM
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Default Rotor setup

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Last edited by GTR1999; Apr 21, 2024 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 05:42 PM
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Looks nice Gary. Your usual beautiful job.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 05:50 PM
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Nice job. I like the tapped hub deal.
Some moron used 1/4-20 bolts to hold the rotor to one
of my hubs ... ground the hex heads thin to fit in the rivet
recess ... then tack welded the nuts on the inside. Luckily,
it looks like they used cheap grade 3 bolts. So, where did you
find those 3/8-24 flathead sockethead screws ?
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by NHvette
So, where did you
find those 3/8-24 flathead sockethead screws ?
I think my mom sells them at her hardware store. I helped a guy find thin nylocksin 10-32 for the same style of screw today. So... check your local hardware store!
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:18 PM
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from the looks of that rotor, your car hasn't seen the road in quite some time.

what size drill did you use to countersink?

Last edited by turtlevette; Mar 17, 2005 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by turtlevette
from the looks of that rotor, your car hasn't seen the road in quite some time.

what size drill did you use to countersink?
Is that a trick question ? .... you use a countersink .... of the proper angle and diameter.

Thanks Schmucker ... haven't seen these in sifting through the hardware drawers.
I'll look more closely.


Last edited by NHvette; Mar 17, 2005 at 06:33 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:42 PM
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I think the countersink needs to be a 82 degree one...if i remember correctly.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I think the countersink needs to be a 82 degree one...if i remember correctly.
For metric bolts it's 90 degrees - it may be different for imperial bolts
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:52 PM
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Gary

did you use grade 8 bolts? how long of a bolt did you use?

Steve
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by NHvette
Is that a trick question ? .... you use a countersink .... of the proper angle and diameter.
since nobody seems to know,

i guess it is.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 07:08 PM
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Unbelievable... it's different than metric....





Last edited by MYBAD79; Mar 17, 2005 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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The 3/8-24 socket flat head screws can be bought from MacMaster Carr .They're rated a grade 8,not that it's needed.

I used a countersink, not a drill bit on the rotor. Zero miles on the rotor, I just installed it on the hub today?

The car is in the middle of a body on resto.Every mechanical part on the car is being removed,disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt by me.The only thing I'm sending out is the block and crank,which when out this week. I'm in no hurry to finish the car. After 28 years of working on corvettes I don't care that much about driving them anymore. I actually like helping others fix their cars now more then driving mine.
I always have at least one on the road to drive when I want. Whenever I finish the car it will be better then it was when it left the factory. I already finished the tranny,rear end, rear T arms, front steering, steering box, front suspension,etc.


Gary
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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Nice work. Why are the rivets(or bolts in this case) needed? I do not have them installed on my vette and just wondering if I should be installing them.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:03 PM
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Gary,

Does the POR-15 withstand the temperature that the rotors reach? If so, it looks like a good way to prevent rust.

Steve
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:09 PM
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The bolts the are not required. I like the idea of keeping the hub and rotor together and I didn't want to rivet them. You can use just the lug nuts.
The Wheel will rub the top coat off where it hit the hub. The POR15 will stay on the heat should not affect it. I painted them just because I'm ****
Gary
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:40 PM
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gary it looks good......if i were to measue my runout with the hubs not riveted or connected to the rotor would i need to put a nut on each stud and tighten them down? thks bob
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by gtr1999
The Wheel will rub the top coat off where it hit the hub. The POR15 will stay on the heat should not affect it. I painted them just because I'm ****
Gary

Arent' we all?

Steve
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Nice work. Why are the rivets(or bolts in this case) needed? I do not have them installed on my vette and just wondering if I should be installing them.
There may be shims between rotor and hub to improve the runout - the rivets or bolts ensure that the rotor is tight against the hub. I'm guessing that this prevents the shim(s) from coming loose when you take the wheel off - the wheel studs would clamp it tight if the rivets/bolts were not there.....
I drilled my rivets out and did not replace them with anything, I'm wondering if dirt can get between the hub and rotor when the wheels are off and the rotor is 'loose'....
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
gary it looks good......if i were to measue my runout with the hubs not riveted or connected to the rotor would i need to put a nut on each stud and tighten them down? thks bob
Bob you'll never get a true reading unless the rotor is secure to the hub. Even with it bolted together you have to use a soft touch not to jar the indicator. You can use all 5 nuts and evenly torque them to 40 ft/lb to check runout. Use chaulk or a china pencil to mark the rotor measurements.
Gary
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Nice work. Why are the rivets(or bolts in this case) needed? I do not have them installed on my vette and just wondering if I should be installing them.
You should drop by the shop and I could set you up with everything you need to indicate your rotors.
To do the back rotors properly you should disconnect the 1/2 shaft.
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