Lower shock bracket removal - HELP!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Lower shock bracket removal - HELP!
I'm back for some advice. I'm trying to remove the strut from the trailing arm and having an awful problem getting the friggin' lower shock bracket removed. The crazy thing is rust welded through the whole thing.
So, I whipped out the Sawz-all and cut off the castellated nut flush with the outside of the bearing assembly. I then hammered the fool out of the end with the nut on it and made all of about 1/16" of progress in getting it out. Next, I cut the bolt on the inside edge between the strut and the right hand side. I then banged some more, no progress.
What's the trick with removing this bad boy?
I can't figure out how to link in the pics from my blog. So here's the link to my blog where the pic is posted:
http://77vette.blogspot.com/2005/03/...strut-and.html
So, I whipped out the Sawz-all and cut off the castellated nut flush with the outside of the bearing assembly. I then hammered the fool out of the end with the nut on it and made all of about 1/16" of progress in getting it out. Next, I cut the bolt on the inside edge between the strut and the right hand side. I then banged some more, no progress.
What's the trick with removing this bad boy?
I can't figure out how to link in the pics from my blog. So here's the link to my blog where the pic is posted:
http://77vette.blogspot.com/2005/03/...strut-and.html
Last edited by steves_77vette; Mar 17, 2005 at 09:48 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
It is hard to believe I know, but there is no trick. Plenty of PB Blaster over several days and a sledge hammer is what finally did it for me. I pounded on it everytime I went through the garage for a week and then one day, it just let loose.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: bartlett IL
Originally Posted by R. Bruno
It is hard to believe I know, but there is no trick. Plenty of PB Blaster over several days and a sledge hammer is what finally did it for me. I pounded on it everytime I went through the garage for a week and then one day, it just let loose.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Barrie Ontario
Hammer, hammer, hammer. But be careful of the bearing support. I broke one to the ears off while trying to remove the shock mount. If you have already ruined the shock mount, can you cut the bolt on both sides of the inside ears to remove the strut rod and the steel bushing. I have read on this forum as well to cut out the strut rod because it is far cheaper than the bearing support and will give you a reason to upgrade to an aftermarket strut rod.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Originally Posted by erock825
heat heat heat the hot wrench is the most overlooked tool
Is that how you did it?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 0
From: Madison Ms
keep beating on it.....mine did the same thing... it will finally break free!
And something else I learned the hard way......jack the t/a up slightly to what looks like a normal riding position, but be careful not to jack it to much........Get it out of a bind, you may have to play with the jack height a little. Worked for me.......
Put the jack right under the spindle support arm. It works!
And something else I learned the hard way......jack the t/a up slightly to what looks like a normal riding position, but be careful not to jack it to much........Get it out of a bind, you may have to play with the jack height a little. Worked for me.......
Put the jack right under the spindle support arm. It works!
Last edited by MsVetteMan; Mar 17, 2005 at 11:18 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 5
From: Minnesota
Mine were totally rusted in from Minnesota road salt. They came out fairly easily though by putting them in a vise. One clamp pushed on the threaded end of the shock mount while the other clamp caught on the lip of the stut around the shock mount on the other side. It will be at an angle. A few hard turns and they slide right out. Unfortunately you cut the threads off so my advice now is to use a gear puller or heat everthing cherry red and use a big punch and pound against something very solid with a hole in it for the shock mount. Once it's out send everthing but the TA and parking brakes to Bairs. Get their catalog and you'll save yourself a ton of money. They'll do the bearings right for $150 per side. Your blog sounds a lot like my project except your wife is laughing at you whereas mine was screaming at me. I bought the Vizard books too but finally decided the hell with it and bought the 350 H.O. crate engine (vortec heads like you want and all put together 
) . John
) . John
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
It's rusted to the strut rod's inner sleeve, it's almost impossible to get the penetrating oil/rust killer to that area. You already destroyed the lower shock mount - if it's still not moving you can try heat ... it may work...
I had to replace the lower shock mounts because of this very problem.... I was however able to safe of them: I just cut the strut rod and removed the inner sleeve (very destructive) ... once the sleeve is off the shock mount comes easily off.
Many replace the strut rods anyway, many install the adjustable rods .... the strut rods are a lot cheaper than the shock mounts - good reasons for sacrifying the rods vs. the shock mounts...
good luck with the other (second) side....
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: Mechanicsville VA
It's a typical problem. After much physical effort, mental anguish, and colorful language, I sent the T-arms complete with strut rods in a box to VanSteel and let them deal with it. Came back all clean and pretty in the new boxes, new bearing assemblies, etc. Well worth the money.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
St. Jude Donor '08
I'm gonna scream if someone recommends soaking something for WEEKS in Pb blaster. http://www.kanolabs.com/ Aero Kroil. If it doesn't come off with that after soaking for 30 minutes to an hour, get out a torch.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Originally Posted by FLEXUSMARK
Hammer, hammer, hammer. But be careful of the bearing support. I broke one to the ears off while trying to remove the shock mount. If you have already ruined the shock mount, can you cut the bolt on both sides of the inside ears to remove the strut rod and the steel bushing. I have read on this forum as well to cut out the strut rod because it is far cheaper than the bearing support and will give you a reason to upgrade to an aftermarket strut rod.
On the second one, I ended up cutting the bushing/bolt on the insides of the two ears, the stut then drops away and a little heat/oil coaxing and the bracket ends came right out. So, one for two but it's done!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
You broke the spindle ? 
Here's a photo of my cutting excercise... I sacrificed the least expensive part - the strut rod..... once you cut through the rod's end you can burn the rubber, cut the inner sleeve (carefully) and get the power blaster oil right to where it's needed.... shock mount came out with no problems or damage.... at least one of the two, I hammered the first one to death...
Here's a photo of my cutting excercise... I sacrificed the least expensive part - the strut rod..... once you cut through the rod's end you can burn the rubber, cut the inner sleeve (carefully) and get the power blaster oil right to where it's needed.... shock mount came out with no problems or damage.... at least one of the two, I hammered the first one to death...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
No, didn't break the spindle, the ear on the spindle support where the shock bracket goes through it. Just below that. Sheared it clean off. That's a $110 part refurbished, $140 new.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
From: Okemos MI
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
It's rusted to the strut rod's inner sleeve, it's almost impossible to get the penetrating oil/rust killer to that area. You already destroyed the lower shock mount - if it's still not moving you can try heat ... it may work...
I had to replace the lower shock mounts because of this very problem.... I was however able to safe of them: I just cut the strut rod and removed the inner sleeve (very destructive) ... once the sleeve is off the shock mount comes easily off.
Many replace the strut rods anyway, many install the adjustable rods .... the strut rods are a lot cheaper than the shock mounts - good reasons for sacrifying the rods vs. the shock mounts...
good luck with the other (second) side....
I have a new set of adjustable rods and not looking to replace the shock mounts.
What did you use to cut the strut rod?
Cutting wheel?
Thanks,
John
