Headlight Switch
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: River Bend NC
switch removal
There are two screws on the left side of the dash in the door jam. Remove those and pull put on that side of the dash. Also remove the panel below the steering column so you can get a hand on the vacuum lines and press the **** release button. Takes me about 5 minutes to replace a switch. jd
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 3
From: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
The other reason you need to get to the rear is because in order to get the **** off you have to press a button on the bottom of the sitch to release it. Once the **** and shaft are out you can unscrew the bezel.
I agree, easy job.
I agree, easy job.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 5
From: Richardson Tx.
Not sure what is going on?? I press the little button and try to pull on the **** and it won't come out...I pulled pretty hard and feel like I am going to break something...any advice?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
You have to pull the switch to the headlight position, then hold the button in while pulling on the shaft. On mine, I had to pull pretty hard since I don't think it had ever been out since 1976. The end of the shaft has a double-taper, and pushing the button in moves a hoop that sits in the tapered part of the shaft and normally keeps you from pulling it completely out of the dash when turning on the headlights. It's hard to describe without pictures, but you'll see what I mean when the shaft comes out.
Incidentally, for me, the toughest part of removing the headlight switch turned out to be getting the nut off that holds the switch body into the dash. I didn't have a screwdriver with a wide enough blade to span the nut, so I ground down a washer and held it with vise grips. Took penetrating oil and moving the switch body around to get the threads to loosen.
Incidentally, for me, the toughest part of removing the headlight switch turned out to be getting the nut off that holds the switch body into the dash. I didn't have a screwdriver with a wide enough blade to span the nut, so I ground down a washer and held it with vise grips. Took penetrating oil and moving the switch body around to get the threads to loosen.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 5
From: Richardson Tx.
OK I was able to get the **** and its shaft out;
Now where is this nut that you are talking about that holds the swtich onto the dash? . I only one that I can see is directly above the H/L switch but that looks like it is holding the wiper switch on...
Now where is this nut that you are talking about that holds the swtich onto the dash? . I only one that I can see is directly above the H/L switch but that looks like it is holding the wiper switch on...
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,128
Likes: 3
From: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
Here's another jumper wire test. I always make sure I have a fuse in the wire with an inline blade fuse holder.
Take a wire with 2 spade connectors on it, 4-5 inches long. plug one end into a slot on the fuse panel label IGN.. This should be on when the ignition is turned on. Remove the fuse for the dash lights. I take the other end of the wire and plug it into one side (right I think try left if it doesn't work) where the blade fuse plugs in.
When I tried this, my dash lights worked until my HL switch from Ecklers came in. They were on when ever the ignition was on. If they don't come on with the jumper and the ingnition on, you could have a circuit card problem.
Maybe someone else will contribute with more indepth problems other than the power issue I had.
Take a wire with 2 spade connectors on it, 4-5 inches long. plug one end into a slot on the fuse panel label IGN.. This should be on when the ignition is turned on. Remove the fuse for the dash lights. I take the other end of the wire and plug it into one side (right I think try left if it doesn't work) where the blade fuse plugs in.
When I tried this, my dash lights worked until my HL switch from Ecklers came in. They were on when ever the ignition was on. If they don't come on with the jumper and the ingnition on, you could have a circuit card problem.
Maybe someone else will contribute with more indepth problems other than the power issue I had.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
Originally Posted by scotty13
if u want to replace it cheap... go to napa for 20$.... transplant the vacume guts on the bottom.... u will see what i mean if u buy one.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 5
From: Richardson Tx.
Even though I bought the new H/L switch, the dash lights still don't work.
In looking at the GM shop manual on page 8B-14, there shows to be a ground strap for the light switch. I do not see this strap at all on the backside of the light switch hole--it looks to be missing..
wondering if this is what the problem is???
In looking at the GM shop manual on page 8B-14, there shows to be a ground strap for the light switch. I do not see this strap at all on the backside of the light switch hole--it looks to be missing..
wondering if this is what the problem is???
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 5
From: Richardson Tx.
Well, I ran a wire from the IGN on the fuse panel to the Instrument Panel fuse prong and still did not get any lights on the dash. So, I have done this and replaced the light switch and still a no go on dash and center console lights. The turn signal lights work and the high beam light works. Also the interior courtesy lights work. The black ground wire is there at the kick panel ok..
Any suggestions to this one? Maybe the printed circuit? But would the turn lights work if that was bad?
Anyone have instructions on removing the printed circuit?
Any suggestions to this one? Maybe the printed circuit? But would the turn lights work if that was bad?
Anyone have instructions on removing the printed circuit?
