TKO 600 vibration
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 899
Likes: 1
From: Kansas
TKO 600 vibration
Just got my car running again after dropping in a 427sb with the tko 600 5 speed, everything is running fine except for the vibration im getting around 90mph and the higher i go it gets worse,thats in 5th,I didn`t notice this before when i had the 4 speed,could it be the angle of my driveshaft not enough,need some advice from you guys,Im going to call keisler also,,,,,THANKS
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,508
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Check to see if you get vibration associated with speed or RPM. Rev it a bit in neutral and see if it vibrates. See if you get the same vibration at 5000rpm in 1st as you do in the other gears, do you get the vibration with the clutch disengaged, etc?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
Yeah, it is very possible that your u-joint angles are wrong. The TKO has to go way up in the tunnel to get decent angles. I actually cut a relief in the tunnel (under the console) to get it up further. I made an aluminum plate that bolts down and seals the hole. Even so the angles were not perfect but pretty close.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 119
From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Originally Posted by zwede
Yeah, it is very possible that your u-joint angles are wrong. The TKO has to go way up in the tunnel to get decent angles. I actually cut a relief in the tunnel (under the console) to get it up further. I made an aluminum plate that bolts down and seals the hole. Even so the angles were not perfect but pretty close.
What angles before and after were you dealing with?Bullshark
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
The M21 also had some drive shaft angle/misalignment. The main thing to watch is that the rear end angle is the same as the engine/tranny angle ( looked against a horizontal line ) . A mismatch doesn't matter so much, but if both this angles are different, the aft versus the front cardan ( flex joint ) work at different rates and twist the drive shaft and actually also moves the slip joke in and out every 1/2 turn of the drive shaft.
I can imagine this producing vibrations.
I must obmit, it is near to impossible to measure the rear end and tranny angles, so positioning the drive shaft in the same location it had before with the M21 should be fine ( I hope ).
Günther
The M21 also had some drive shaft angle/misalignment. The main thing to watch is that the rear end angle is the same as the engine/tranny angle ( looked against a horizontal line ) . A mismatch doesn't matter so much, but if both this angles are different, the aft versus the front cardan ( flex joint ) work at different rates and twist the drive shaft and actually also moves the slip joke in and out every 1/2 turn of the drive shaft.
I can imagine this producing vibrations.
I must obmit, it is near to impossible to measure the rear end and tranny angles, so positioning the drive shaft in the same location it had before with the M21 should be fine ( I hope ).
Günther
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SPARTAN
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Driveline angles are definitely a possibility.
Schmucker hit on it. You need to determine if it's the vehicle speed (and thus the driveshaft speed/trans output) or the engine speed (clutch/flywheel/trans input).
At the speed where you get the vibration, what happens in other gears? You said it happens in 5th. What if you shift into 4th at that same speed? Same vibration? What if you drive at that same engine rpm in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th? Any vibration?
Schmucker hit on it. You need to determine if it's the vehicle speed (and thus the driveshaft speed/trans output) or the engine speed (clutch/flywheel/trans input).
At the speed where you get the vibration, what happens in other gears? You said it happens in 5th. What if you shift into 4th at that same speed? Same vibration? What if you drive at that same engine rpm in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th? Any vibration?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 669
From: FL
Easy way to determine if it is driveline is to get up to speed and then just push the clutch in and coast. If you still have the vibration, it is driveline related.
I am currently trying to get my Tremec higher based on some measurements I did tonight with my old T-10. Of course, then I managed to strip the bolt hole in the tranny but that is a story for my other thread.
I am currently trying to get my Tremec higher based on some measurements I did tonight with my old T-10. Of course, then I managed to strip the bolt hole in the tranny but that is a story for my other thread.
Last edited by SteveG75; Mar 29, 2005 at 08:47 PM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
Easy way to determine if it is driveline is to get up to speed and then just push the clutch in and coast. If you still have the vibration, it is driveline related.
Yes and... no. If its the clutch , it will not show up this way.
Also was the flywheel resurfaced ? And if yes, was it balanced afterwards ? This are much bigger rotating masses as just a drive shaft.
Finding the cause of vibration is not always so obvious.
Good luck. Günther
Easy way to determine if it is driveline is to get up to speed and then just push the clutch in and coast. If you still have the vibration, it is driveline related.
Yes and... no. If its the clutch , it will not show up this way.
Also was the flywheel resurfaced ? And if yes, was it balanced afterwards ? This are much bigger rotating masses as just a drive shaft.
Finding the cause of vibration is not always so obvious.
Good luck. Günther
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 669
From: FL
Originally Posted by WESCH
Hi
Easy way to determine if it is driveline is to get up to speed and then just push the clutch in and coast. If you still have the vibration, it is driveline related.
Yes and... no. If its the clutch , it will not show up this way.
Also was the flywheel resurfaced ? And if yes, was it balanced afterwards ? This are much bigger rotating masses as just a drive shaft.
Finding the cause of vibration is not always so obvious.
Good luck. Günther
Easy way to determine if it is driveline is to get up to speed and then just push the clutch in and coast. If you still have the vibration, it is driveline related.
Yes and... no. If its the clutch , it will not show up this way.
Also was the flywheel resurfaced ? And if yes, was it balanced afterwards ? This are much bigger rotating masses as just a drive shaft.
Finding the cause of vibration is not always so obvious.
Good luck. Günther
The clutch in and coast check will help eliminate the engine or flywheel/pressure plate as a source of vibrations since they are turning at idle speed. Obviously the clutch disc, transmission, and driveshaft will still be at road speed. After all, every little bit helps when trouble shooting.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 899
Likes: 1
From: Kansas
I do have a cf clutch ,but dont think this is the problem,I believe its a driveline vibration because I did push the clutch in and the vibration was still there,I think I put it in nuetral also going down the hiway,I dont feel it going thru the gears only when around 90 and up and gets worse,....also I did not install my center exhaust hanger and wonder if this would change the pitch angle some on the driveshaft,,,,,and Gunther are you talking about side to side or up and down angles.. THANKS AGIAN guys
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I had a vibration, could not figure it out for two years, ended up gbeing my rear wheel bearings. Maybe you did not notice it at 90 MPH because your car wouldn't go that fast before with the 4 speed 
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I had the same problem but mine started to vibrate at 60 lasted till 70 , went away and came back really bad at 90 and couldn't drive above that.
I ended up improving the drive line alignment both up and down and side to side.
I push the tailstock as high as possible, right up until it hits the tunnel and then when you let it settle on the mount it pulls away very little but enough.
I measured then angle with a protrator. I then measured the rearend and found I needed to raise the rearend so I shortened the spacer, Make the angle equal and opposite, the trail stock is down so the rearend must be up.
I also found the tailstock didn't point to the rearend, I made a special tool and re aligned the rearend left and right.
My pinion pointed towards the passengers front tire, that was wrong so I move the pinion more in align.
I have absolutely no vibration right up to 130 mph where I quit but not a whimper.
I ended up improving the drive line alignment both up and down and side to side.
I push the tailstock as high as possible, right up until it hits the tunnel and then when you let it settle on the mount it pulls away very little but enough.
I measured then angle with a protrator. I then measured the rearend and found I needed to raise the rearend so I shortened the spacer, Make the angle equal and opposite, the trail stock is down so the rearend must be up.
I also found the tailstock didn't point to the rearend, I made a special tool and re aligned the rearend left and right.
My pinion pointed towards the passengers front tire, that was wrong so I move the pinion more in align.
I have absolutely no vibration right up to 130 mph where I quit but not a whimper.
