C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Found my carb problem....it was simple.....

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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 10:46 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
You always bring something new to the table! Thanks for that info. What if I just set the choke on it's leanest setting and forget about it?

Or, how do you lock it out?
I have my Edelbrock locked out.



You can see it in the picture.
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #22  
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From: Jackson Ms
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hay SteveG75
keep in mind this guy just got his car in jan. and he has NEVER done any of this before.
so dont blame the carb for a newbe have'n problem.
we all throw'n stuff at him try'n to help, most being way over his head. he's never messed with a motor before.
i think he did good!
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 10:54 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SteveG75
I did read the first post. I don't want to get in a flame war.

I do think that you are trying to make the best of a fair situation. That carb is not what you needed right now and the way you have being fighting with that carb would make me seriously question ever getting one of the Edelbrock AFB clones for my car. Just my $0.02.
Steve - I have to agree that there might be other issues that need to be uncovered.
I have to disagree with the Edelbrock carbs. Mine has performed flawlessly
for years - without me even looking at it. That even includes sitting
all winter.
Not the ultimate in performance, but maintenance free once it is setup right.

Lars has offered much proof in his own testing that 750cfm can be
successfully setup on a 350 and run better than a 600 or 650.
He might have even pushed the envelope to near 1000cfm - I forget.

Last, you gotta hand it to the man with a vette from MS. He started
out not wanting to even touch this thing, and now it is in the last
stages of "gettin' her done".

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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 11:17 AM
  #24  
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
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My EB carb worked flawlessly on my 350 and was great from a tuning / maintenance standpoint.

Another point to consider - the warm up is relative to the engine, not to humans! Even in 105* temps (which it never hits in MS), if the engine sits overnight, the choke helps it start and run initially better. It needs to warm up until the water is around 180-200 and the oil is around 250-300. Yeah - there are some folks who can get by without a choke, but it's harder one your engine because it's running leaner than it should for a while.

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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 11:28 AM
  #25  
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From: Jackson Ms
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you ever been here in MS around summer time when it's 98* or so?
you facter in the humidity and you'll think it's more like 110*
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:12 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by grayhook
you ever been here in MS around summer time when it's 98* or so?
you facter in the humidity and you'll think it's more like 110*
Yes - but to your engine, this is cold...
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:19 PM
  #27  
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Question about wiring the electric choke.

I'm installing a ZZ4 with a HEI distributor. I have the "stock" ZZ4 Holley carburetor, it has an electric choke.

My car has the stock 1968 wire harness in it.

I will be adding a custom made wire to connect the HEI to the "full" 12 volts;i.e. bypassing the stock harness resistance wire that is intended to go to the old point type distributor.

Question: Can I just wire the electric choke to the same 12 volt wire that's being used to power the HEI?

Thanks
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Old Mar 30, 2005 | 01:27 PM
  #28  
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From: Jackson Ms
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Question: Can I just wire the electric choke to the same 12 volt wire that's being used to power the HEI?
no, read lar's post

Originally Posted by lars
Are you running your choke wire to the positive feed wire to your distributor? If so, you need to plug it in somewhere else - the choke wire will drop your ignition voltage and cause problems...
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