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Okay, for you guys who have been keeping up with my carb/timing saga with the EB 750 cfm carb on the 350 motor...I FINALLY FOUND THE SOURCE OF THE MAJOR PROBLEM!!
Freakin' electric choke....I finally got it running very good yesterday late evening without the choke connected. Well today, I got it running even better without the choke connected, and didn't even think about the choke not being plugged in. Well this evening since everything seemed smoothed, I plugged the choke back in for a test drive......ran like crap.......now I didn't plug the choke in until the motor had warmed up fully. Came back into the garage, and idled back up (choke dropped my idle about 200 rpm).....took her out again with the choke still on.......ran like crap. Came back into the garage and disconnected the choke, readjusted idle, bam....ran good.
I know there are some choke adjustments you can make, but do I need this thing plugged up?
P.s....ordered a A/F meter, vac. gauge, and rod/jet tuning kit today for fine tuning! I close boys..........very close.........
Last edited by MsVetteMan; Mar 29, 2005 at 08:32 PM.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Are you running your choke wire to the positive feed wire to your distributor? If so, you need to plug it in somewhere else - the choke wire will drop your ignition voltage and cause problems...
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Glad to hear you're getting closer. Ain't this fun?
I hate choke's. I had a manual choke on a Holley 3310 that would surprisingly close on acceleration---at it's whim. Imagine, your cruisin along minding your own business and wham, suddenly your engine is sputtering and spewing big black clouds of smoke behind you. These classic cars are a lot of fun. I don't think we can ever really enjoy them.
Are you running your choke wire to the positive feed wire to your distributor? If so, you need to plug it in somewhere else - the choke wire will drop your ignition voltage and cause problems...
Nope, choke is not running back to the distrib. ... Not sure where it is going as it runs back in with some other wires.......Remember, Bubba had been in my car, and he somehow rigged up a way to run the original distrib. with a non HEI carb without the computer.
Dayum.........all those previous replys that said "you will never get that big a carb running good on a 350, where are y'all. I haven't even tuned it yet, and I have it running good. With proper jet/rod combo, I'm screamin'...........
Just kidding folks!.......I'm not quite there yet. Still have some fine tuning to do with the carb.
In all fairness, I am true dual exhaust, no smog, no 'puter, 2701 performer intake........It can be done.
Last edited by MsVetteMan; Mar 30, 2005 at 08:57 AM.
The choke is adjustable (assuming EB is Edelbrock and not Energizer Bunny). There is a complete manual here (with all kinds of tune up stuff), and this link is specifically for the electric chokes.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
I would prefer to keep the choke disconnected.....any reason not to, other than cold starting?
If you simply disconnect the wire off the choke, the choke will remain fully closed at all times. If you're going to disable the choke, you need to lock it in the full open position - not just remove the wire. Otherwise, you'll be running full rich even after engine warmup.
If you simply disconnect the wire off the choke, the choke will remain fully closed at all times. If you're going to disable the choke, you need to lock it in the full open position - not just remove the wire. Otherwise, you'll be running full rich even after engine warmup.
If you simply disconnect the wire off the choke, the choke will remain fully closed at all times. If you're going to disable the choke, you need to lock it in the full open position - not just remove the wire. Otherwise, you'll be running full rich even after engine warmup.
You always bring something new to the table! Thanks for that info. What if I just set the choke on it's leanest setting and forget about it?
If you simply disconnect the wire off the choke, the choke will remain fully closed at all times. If you're going to disable the choke, you need to lock it in the full open position - not just remove the wire. Otherwise, you'll be running full rich even after engine warmup.
Richening the mixture solved your problem. Remember how you were solving it partially by fattening up the idle mixture?
Sorry, but IMHO, all you are doing is Bubba-izing this poor carb. The proper way to fix a part throttle cruise fuel issue is with jets and rods not the idle mixture and choke.
Last edited by SteveG75; Mar 30, 2005 at 10:26 AM.
Richening the mixture solved your problem. Remember how you were solving it partially by fattening up the idle mixture?
Sorry, but IMHO, all you are doing is Bubba-izing this poor carb. The proper way to fix a part throttle cruise fuel issue is with jets and rods not the idel mixture and choke.
If you will go back and read the first post, instead of jumping in the middle of a post, you will see that I have ordered the jet/rod kit, along with an A/F meter, and a vacuum gauge.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
What if I just set the choke on it's leanest setting and forget about it?
Or, how do you lock it out?
You can loosen the black choke cover and rotate it towards the lean position until the choke blade fully opens, plus a tad more to hold it firmly in the full open position. Then snug the cover screws back down.
If you had not done this before, you have been running with the carb in its full rich condition - even after warm-up. If the car ran okay with the choke blade closed, you have a mixture problem with the carb. So open the choke fully as described and see how the car reacts: if it runs like poo-poo again, you have other issues...
You can loosen the black choke cover and rotate it towards the lean position until the choke blade fully opens, plus a tad more to hold it firmly in the full open position. Then snug the cover screws back down.
If you had not done this before, you have been running with the carb in its full rich condition - even after warm-up. If the car ran okay with the choke blade closed, you have a mixture problem with the carb. So open the choke fully as described and see how the car reacts: if it runs like poo-poo again, you have other issues...
Choke was opening Lars, I just don't think it was opening all the way. Thanks for the input, and I'll do some checking!
If you will go back and read the first post, instead of jumping in the middle of a post, you will see that I have ordered the jet/rod kit, along with an A/F meter, and a vacuum gauge.
I did read the first post. I don't want to get in a flame war.
I do think that you are trying to make the best of a fair situation. That carb is not what you needed right now and the way you have being fighting with that carb would make me seriously question ever getting one of the Edelbrock AFB clones for my car. Just my $0.02.