Tried to replace the motor mounts
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,783
Likes: 2
From: Engineers do it better.
Tried to replace the motor mounts
Driver side was split in half (thanks MotorHead for noticing that on the dyno). I cheaped out and bought the "overseas" crap. When the 3 bolts on the block are in, the long bolt doesn't go through the frame, and vise versa.
Anyone else had this problem? What's the solution? I tried jacking the engine, the car, tried prying, putting a punch to guide the bolt, etc...
Is this a quality issue or do I need more weight on the engine (it's basically a block with pistons and crank only, everything else is off for cam/head swap).
Is Energy Suspension part easier to install?
Also what is the torque supposed to be on the bolts? Could not find it in Chiltons or Haynes.
Thanks guys
Anyone else had this problem? What's the solution? I tried jacking the engine, the car, tried prying, putting a punch to guide the bolt, etc...
Is this a quality issue or do I need more weight on the engine (it's basically a block with pistons and crank only, everything else is off for cam/head swap).
Is Energy Suspension part easier to install?
Also what is the torque supposed to be on the bolts? Could not find it in Chiltons or Haynes.
Thanks guys
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 758
Likes: 14
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
I purchased the locking ones from Ecklers for 25$, I only had to help the long bolt in with a hole alingment tool. Its like a long tapered punch/small hex bar. Very simple operation. Honestly, it was elementary, maybe I lucked out.
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,936
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Did you try NOT tightening the 3 bolts to the block? Leave them a little loose. Should give you a little "wiggle" room. 
I used Energy Suspensions' Poly mounts...no problem. Don't remember the torque specs, but good luck getting a torque wrench in there.
I used Energy Suspensions' Poly mounts...no problem. Don't remember the torque specs, but good luck getting a torque wrench in there.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 182,997
Likes: 88
From: Lakeland, FL
Cruise-In IV-V-VI-VII-VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Another thing that you can do is to loosen the bolts that hold the engine side of the mount by 1/4 inch or so on each side until the holes align. Slide in the bolt that connects both motor mount parts and then carefully tighten the bolts that hold the mount to the engine. You shouldn't experience major resistance when doing that... If you do, you'll have to find another method because you don't wanna mess up the motor mount holes in the block...
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 4
From: Slidell La
rubber compression
The new rubber has not compressed and this can make you a little out of alignment. If you have loosened up the Pass side mount and can't get it,, you will have to use a "kineblin pin",, just kidding,, but a taper drift. I have a 12" taper punch I used for that job. So good luck,, Don't think it is mfg of part, but the fact the rubber has not held weight for any period of time. My 64 coupe had the same problem but I found it on a 90 degree left turn at full throttle when the engine rocked in the cradle and pulled the throttle open,, Glad it cornered well.
99 Nassau Blue
99 Nassau Blue
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 758
Likes: 14
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
Originally Posted by desi
I was looking at ENS-3-1114G. How is this a locking type? Do I need longer bolts with this? This one is in 2 pieces?
My safety mounts did require longer bolts.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,783
Likes: 2
From: Engineers do it better.
I just order Energy Suspension Poly mount for driver's side...that's the one that was split in half. I just don't want to do the job twice. Passanger side I will use rubber. I think there's a lot of people here doing that.
The rubber one is by Supreme.
The rubber one is by Supreme.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Originally Posted by desi
I just order Energy Suspension Poly mount for driver's side...that's the one that was split in half. I just don't want to do the job twice. Passanger side I will use rubber. I think there's a lot of people here doing that.
The rubber one is by Supreme.
The rubber one is by Supreme.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Originally Posted by desi
Because the driver's side is the one that takes up most of the abuse. Passenger is under compression...
Hmmm... Guess I'm just "old fashoned" - always replace as a pair. Just sounds pretty "Bubba" to me, but if it works for you.....
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
Works for me, I replaced just the driver side to save some $ (cheap guy) and also in hopes that leaving the passenger side rubber in it would absorb more of the eng vibration than having 2 poly ones in.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by Fevre
Works for me, I replaced just the driver side to save some $ (cheap guy) and also in hopes that leaving the passenger side rubber in it would absorb more of the eng vibration than having 2 poly ones in.
where the rubber gets ripped apart. Keep the rubber on the compression side to absorb vibration.
Damn - just reminded me I need new ones, too ... before the body goes back on.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 43
From: Eastern US XX
Originally Posted by NHvette
Gotta agree with that. Not Bubba - just putting the strong hard one
where the rubber gets ripped apart. Keep the rubber on the compression side to absorb vibration.
Damn - just reminded me I need new ones, too ... before the body goes back on.
where the rubber gets ripped apart. Keep the rubber on the compression side to absorb vibration.
Damn - just reminded me I need new ones, too ... before the body goes back on.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Tucson Arizona
I just replaced my solid mounts with poly last Saturday. I had to use longer engine bolt because of the poly backing plate (3/8x1). It also helped to put each mount in a vice and open open the distance a little between the wings for the frame mount. This gives a little more wiggle room and it is pulled back together when you torque the long bolts. The drivers side was the toughest, I had to adjust the motor height with the jack a couple of times to get the engine bolts to line up. Energy Susp. instructions are to torque engine bolts 30 - 35 ft lbs. and the long chasis bolt 40 - 45 ft lbs. I'm looking forward to driving without those solid mounts. Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,783
Likes: 2
From: Engineers do it better.
Originally Posted by C371
I just replaced my solid mounts with poly last Saturday. I had to use longer engine bolt because of the poly backing plate (3/8x1). It also helped to put each mount in a vice and open open the distance a little between the wings for the frame mount. This gives a little more wiggle room and it is pulled back together when you torque the long bolts. The drivers side was the toughest, I had to adjust the motor height with the jack a couple of times to get the engine bolts to line up. Energy Susp. instructions are to torque engine bolts 30 - 35 ft lbs. and the long chasis bolt 40 - 45 ft lbs. I'm looking forward to driving without those solid mounts. Hope this helps.
You answered all my questions.
Thanks everyone for helping me out.
